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Posts posted by [email protected]
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So my first question is what amp are you using for your mids and hi's? Next are you trying to get bass through your front stage? There are a lot of options if you try to focus on one direction like sound quality, or just being loud or having better mid bass. But we need to know your objective. Besides the obvious of wanting to stop buying speakers and tossing them. SMH that's got to be getting old.
I have the same questions, I am running the factory bose setup with 2 D3 12's pushing 900 watts and everything is plenty loud for me, even had an audio guy look at me surprised when he realized it still had the bose speakers in it. sounds like you're not running the correct setup for the vocal speakers, because they should be stupid loud being aftermarket if powered properly IMO
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definitely the place for subs
http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/gallery/image/7018-11152010074/
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I'd like next offer on E-fans (after Marzyn) pending harness and if it fits an 03
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I've got an 03 and the mirror never mentions anything other than temp and direction I think.. Never heard of them putting a drive train light or reading away from the instrument cluster anyways
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Oh yea, just a nice smooth stop compared to a pulsating one makes a huge difference
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After much, much debating and researching on the forum I finally chose a path in which to replace my rotors and pads because mine were warped and getting close to needing replaced. I don't have the funds to do z06 brakes so, instead, I just upgraded the rotors and pads and swapped to s/s lines. I know there are other things I can do as well but I'm very pleased with my choice and can always up them later. My brakes never really felt bad/soft like others had mentioned but I definitely had warped rotors. Just wanted to say thanks for all of you and your knowledge that helped with my decisions. Braking is smooth and requires little pressure for normal driving to stop, but can really shut it down if i get on em hard.
OE rotorsEBC USRFinished EBC USR, Green Stuff 6000 pads, Russell S/S Brake lines -
Only issue i could possibly see is keeping the factory routing of the lines on the front. Unless i did it wrong the front lines from Russell fit but didn't have much slack. and if your larger brakes will be pushing the front calipers out further it may need to be routed different
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If you find out you need a wheel bearing dont skimp out with price. there about $170 or so, Buy the good one (MOOG) and you wont be doing it again in a few months.
thanks
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alright guys, thanks.. its not a real loud noise but sounds like my tire is rubbing, and its not lol
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Ok will try it when i do my brakes, are they the same as any other wheel bearing to change, I've only done this job on an 84 camaro, never a truck or 4wd
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I know this is an old thread so I'm bumping it to not make another, I've got this same issue, it's only at a approx. 20mph speed and sounds like the tire is rubbing. Happens when i'm beginning to turn a corner or into a parking lot while slowing down on the brakes, Any idea?
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I believe there is a bose adapter they use for changing head units and they are known to make things such as this happen if they are a cheap brand and go out..
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i stand corrected myself, the rear is 12.8" rotor but apparently the front is 12.008" so the larger front may help a little bit
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nothing stated about front calipers just rotor size. I was going off of the standard gm truck. I have drums and have looked into the swap and that is the best info I could come up with. I stand corrected
Agreed, nothing was asked of the front calipers, just rear.. not a big deal though, i'm just trying to get all my information together so i know which way i want to go. if they are 12.8 inch rotors then i have no reason to research a 13" Tahoe rotor anyways. Thanks for everyone's help though, It is appreciated
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All awd sss have dual piston rear calipers, with the larger 12.8 rear rotors, half ton trucks had the single piston, smaller rotor set up
Thanks, if they have 12.8 inch rotors than there is no point in making them 13" rotors lol
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well my calipers appear like dual piston calipers but i will double check, i didnt own the truck for the first 100k miles and the previous owner has painted the calipers so they may not be stock already
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does anyone see an issue with running staggered sizes? 13" front 12" rear? or would the increased size of the 13" rear still be beneficial with a single piston caliper over a 2 piston caliper on 12" rotor?
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The single piston will make a difference. I put them on my truck and could definitely notice them stopping me better. I believe most of the SUVs have the dual rear piston calipers.
you noticed a difference coming from drum though correct? I've got dual piston calipers on all corners and don't want to lose performance going to single
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Hey everyone, I'm needing to do pads and rotors on my 03 awd and saw this post about upgrading to 13" equipment, however it does not mention anything about the rear. In searching the parts for the 07 tahoe i noticed that the rears only came with single piston calipers not the 2 piston like in the front or currently on my truck. My question is, are the front and rear calipers different in such a manner i couldn't just use the fronts on the rear as well? or does anyone know of another way of obtaining 2 piston calipers that would work with the 13" rotors in the rear? I was unsure if single piston would make a difference compared to dual piston or if there would also be fitment issues being a different design. http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/77193-13-front-brake-upgrade/
Thanks for any help.
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L's motors are notorious for crankcase pressure. Pull off the tb and I bet that its very oily inside the intake manifold. Most likely where it's going. Install a catch can and you'll catch the oil before it re-enters the engine. At least you will know where it is going. (Peice of mind) watch for smoke at start up from the exhaust .... It will look different than the typical cold day smoke you are seeing
if I pull it off and it is oily, do I need to do anything in particular or just clean it and install the catch can?
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I know man, was just having a little joke. I wasn't serious, but I'll see what I can find when it's not 34 outside
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No, not my way of getting high lol jk.. but no not with it dumped underneath.. and no offense taken, I've seen what people can do when they don't use common sense or research
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6 qts, try to squeeze every drop out of them lol
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GM states " ...a loss of 1 U.S. Quart between a 3,000 mile oil change interval is acceptable/normal..."
if it's not showing on the dipstick, then isn't general rule that it's two quarts low? or is that old rumor I've heard
Storage box = Sub box anyone accomplish this???
in Radio/Electronics/Security
Posted
i don't think it would convert well, it is made of plastic, it would sounds like kicking a plastic tub around, i'd just replace it with a sub box IMO