airmanramsey

Problem Fixed > Okay exact steps I did to remove and replace antenna cable. First off we had to remove part of the dash and twitter panels. Most of everything pops off careful removing twitter panels use a knife or utility blade and unclip wiring harness from them. AC vents just use a knife and go in from behind the vent cover they just pop out. Youll have to remove the O Shit Handle theres a latch on the back part of it then it just pulls out. We had to unlossen the bolts for the air bag. The actual antenna cable runs right over a dash frame bar just disconnect, tap a fish line (metal line) to it and wrap it up with electrical tape. Have one person feed and another person pull the cable out we had to use a crow bar and slowly remove the cable very slowly (toke about 40 minutes) threw the firewall. Once you have pulled the antenna cable out untape and tape the new cable then do everything in reverse. Hope this helps

Thank you so much man!

Okay thanks man do you know where to get a battery tray that will bolt down?

Looking into installing a second battery in my truck somewhere (for stereo and acessories). Anyone know of a good space in the engine compartment or anyone have any experience in installing a second battery for their SS.

[ By the looks of the picture from amazon. The entire assembly is broken down into two parts. One being the antenna and the other being the base along with the coaxial cable. Does this cable connect directly to the head unit or does it connect to another cable or unit? Can you just buy the base where the antenna rod screws into instead of buying the base with the cable? Do you have to tear apart the dash in order to run the new cable?

It broke clean off at the base where it screws in

Went to a car wash and one of the guys at the car wash broke my antenna. Ive found a replacement antenna and antenna assembly but I have never replaced a antenna in my life!!! Do I have to retrace the antenna cable all the way to my stock head unit and remove the old antenna cable and run a new one or is it something easier? Antenna Assembly http://www.amazon.co...e/dp/B000S2U6QI

Thanks man for the advice, you should see the stuff they fill in between the lines on the bridge that shit will wreck your bike. Whats the Price difference betweeen the two? What do you have? Okay, thanks man

Sounds pretty easy, ill get some stuff at lowes and get back to working on it. Thanks!

Dual Climate Control/ Digital Yeah thats what Im trying to avoid dealers charge a lot to do a little work Yeah thats what I was thinking, how easy are they to repair?

Okay I just bought my SS about three months ago with 70,000 miles on it. I'm in the air force so when I got home to PCS (move) to my new base, I noticed how crappy the roads were in Louisiana especially in town next to my base. I'm thinking its time to change the shocks on it. What is typical mileage you change your shocks? and what are some of the best shocks for everyday driving?

Okay I want to remove the human factor in the equation, so here is all I've done: I bought a replacement battery at Advanced Auto Parts about week and a half ago, got it installed and when I went to start my truck and the AC was blowing hot air. I check all my relays/CBs, everything was good. Went inside and bought a bottle of Freon with a charge kit and hooked it up to my low pressure value. Started everything up, and injected maybe a very very small portion of the Freon into my system not enough to even move the gauge enough, went back to see if it was blowing cold air. Went inside and it was blowing cold again. Week later, working on putting my amplifier together disconnected the battery cables and reconnected them. Turn the key and the driver side was blowing Cold air, while the passenger side was blowing very hot air. check the rear vents and they were both blowing cold air. Did a little research and came with the conclusion it might be the air temperature actuator door. Link: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Dorman-A-C-Heater-Blend-Door-Actuator/2005-Chevrolet-Silverado-1500-AWD/_/N-jn1bhZ9pelb?counter=1&itemIdentifier=575028_158893_13424_3481%2C4539 Here is a source I found that I think will fix it: http://www.sparkys-answers.com/2009/09/2004-chevrolet-tahoe-blows-hot-air.html Will this work? I don't think I need to recharge it or replace any temperature sensors.

I've never done any electrical work. How easy is it to hook the remote line to the accessory wire? Just splice into it, and solider the wires together and heat shrink the tube? What gauge wire did you use?

This adapter: http://www.amazon.com/PAC-AOEMGM24-Interface-Select-Vehicles/dp/B0002J21XS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309381582&sr=8-1 two wires under the center console? Hi/lo converter?

Okay, long story short I purchased a amp/sub for my truck to add a little base to the original bose stereo. I purchase the PAC interface for the stock head unit, wanting to keep a stock look. I hooked everything up to my truck yesterday only to find the amp not turning on. Only thing I can think is either a bad fuse, or I need to connect the remote wire to the amp. If I do need the remote wire before the amp will turn on can someone tell me what they did to configure the PAC wiring adapter to use the remote wire? Also need help running a wire from the battery to the rear seats and where to put the PAC unit after installing it (theres not a lot of room behind the stock head unit). Thanks