matt 2k12

And which one do I get for the 2Wd SS 2003? I've bought one before but I can't remember where Text me if you want 432.352.3496, truck just took a shit. Pretty sure is the rear diff.

What is the level of difficulty? What all is involved? What special tools or preparations need to be made? I crashed my VHO with a FLT 4l65e level 5 trans and my new SS is awd and one of the hubs is going bad so I want to swap transmissions.

Ok................. well after doing my spark plugs 4 times.... it still runs funny. Not throwing any codes right now but at low RPMS and zero throttle the truck is running on like half cylinders. I can almost hear each cylinder firing individually. Especially when cold starting. But again, no codes thrown. Once at 1500 RPMS and higher it seems to run fine. but when coming to a stop, or when trying to start when cold, it cranks a lot, then runs like crap for a while, like 400 RPMS, until half way warmed up. At one point when I pulled my plugs out they were soaked in fuel. I am wondering if any residual fuel in the combustion chamber will cause problems running for a little while until its all burned off? SO I am now to the point of wanting to test the spark of each cylinder. How to I test my coils? How do I verify the spark of each cylinder? I am really at a loss after changing out my O2s, and then going with NGK TR5IX plugs pre-gapped at .040 per my truck. Again, its not throwing any codes (yet) but still running funny like ignition problems. TIA!

was your 04 the 6.0 LQ9? or some other motor?

is it small ffor platinums though? i thougt you went .0040 for platinum and .060 for iridium?

i am running bosch platinum plugs at .040 right now, pre-gapped. just replaced both O2 sensors with denso OEs, now the truck wont run and the CEL is on

Ive been having some really crappy running issues due to the usual suspects (O2's shorting from water splash, plugs fouling), but I got some plugs and went and gapped them .06 at first and the truck ran like crap. The whole front end was shaking. Then I realized the plugs were "pre-gapped" at .040 so I pulled them all out and set them back to .040. It ran okay at first but started running bad soon after. Misfiring and stuff. I am also changing out O2 sensors and the Bosch one that I got from Autozone does not look like the others Ive always gotten, ACDelco and Denso. the design of the sensor loooks different, I'm wondering if they gave me the wrong sensor even though the electrical connector is the same? I only have the upstream O2 sensors so that is what I am talking about. So long story short I am looking for the factory spec for plug gap, and wondering if O2 sensors can look different but have the same connector or if I got a downstream sensor by accident. Surely with my mods I dont require some special plug gap do I?

Hey yall, SO I am continuing to diagnose my battery dying issue and I decided to swap alternators. But I bought the wrong one even though it said it was a direct replacement. It did look a little bigger but I know the housing doesnt have much to do with it. HOWEVER - when I installed the new (bigger) alternator it did not allow my belt tensioner to return back to its normal position. Its pretty much all the way cranked over now. I thought that would be OK so I drove the truck for a test drive and low and behold it would not charge the battery and was actually dying while driving down the street. So obviously I bought the wrong alternator or something. I told the guy to get me Part No. AL8785X which advance auto .com said was a direct fit. I believe this is erroneous information. Could someone please point me to the correct part number or part numbers for some working alternators? Since my lights dim from my stereo system and I plan on adding some auxillary lights should I go for a 145A alternator? BTW I drive a 2wd VHO LQ9. TIA, Matt

Just an FYI guys I had to replace the battery cuz it kept dying. Now my new battery is dying as well. I think it may be stereo or dashboard related. I'm going to keep digging. Its frustrating jump starting your truck every day.

Run an ad in Odessa / Midland Craigslist, we are booming right now with ridiculous money everywhere. I would mention something about it being in California and you could meet halfway or something. Out of town deals always seem like a scam to people. Once people realize they have to ship it almost completely ruins the sale.

Well I fixed the idler pulley and when I went to buy it I had them do a batt/alt check and everything came back fine. Cranking amps a little low but still within spec he said. Now it starts up everyday no problems? Didnt have to replace the battery or alternator. I went ahead and did a WOT pull since I hadnt done it in a while and put some charge in there. Seems to be running fine now. Weird. But at least the squeaking is gone. Has anyone ever had the idler pulley affect battery charge?

Hey guys. I took a quick video and a few pictures of my alternator and idler pulley. Our company mechanic told me he thought it was the bearing in the idler pulley going out and squeaking. I took some pictures for you to see. He says that could cause the alternator to not charge correctly. Or maybe I am looking at 2 seperate problems but to me they seem related. The squeaking is hard to hear or differentiate and it sounds a little different on video than in real life but you get the idea. Please let me know what you think about all this. I still havent had a chance to do a draw test. Video of squeaking sound - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80070250/VID_20130906_105350_620.mp4 Photos of Idler Pulley - https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80070250/IMG_20130906_105457_203.jpg , https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/80070250/IMG_20130906_105507_124.jpg

If you havent already, please note my other replies in the 2 posts above. Yesterday was the first time I had to jump the truck in the evening when leaving work. Seems like its getting worse. Of course, this morning, I had to jump it again to get to work. I have a V1 with the Savvy connection into my OBD port but it kills power when the vehicle is off. I dont think its my radar or any other accessories or lights. It may be my dash. However I am still leaning towards the battery since like I said it died once in the recent past when I left it parked during a vacation and had my phone charger plugged in. Also, the ticking, whining, whistling.... noise... is getting progressively worse. It honestly sounds like its coming from the alternator but I haven't done an official investigation. Ive just had some alternator issues in the past on another GM truck and I remember some weird noises it made as it was failing.

My cluster is a mess. Should have been replaced a long time ago. Sometimes my speedo shows 90mph while sitting still. Now my Tach is going out every now and then, like 4k higher than actual RPMs. Maybe my dash is the problem.

Its around 14, closer to 13 or 13.5