scrapinby

I have always been impressed with the paintless dent removal guys. Usually, if they can't fix it, they can tell you before they even start, and they will not charge you if they can't fix it. If you have a relationship with a local car dealer, they can point you in the right direction for a a good paintless dent removal guy. Most of the time they charge between $100 and $150.

I'd rock the 67-72 behind it. Is that an ice cream van?

I sold cars for 7 years. I never tried to "up sell" anyone. I didn't care if the person wanted a Aveo or Suburban. I wanted to get them in the vehicle that best suited their needs. It takes a lot more effort to put someone into a car that is not right for them, and they usually will not refer people to you or return. That's where the real money is- repeats and referrals. Can your paint be matched? Probably. Honestly, silvers and metallics are the hardest to match. It will probably look good most of the time, but if you are picky like I am, you'll notice it in certain lighting. My question for you is who is the douchebag of the week? The guy that parked next to you, or you for not knowing how to back your truck up?

XBOX= scrapinby PS Network= SgtShutYourTrap I play MW2 on Xbox and Black Ops on Playstation. If MW3 is good, I'll play it on both.

I think it's pretty badass. I like my trucks "scrapinby" though.

That truck is awesome. I couldn't get a truck that low out of my driveway.

Sorry bro, but the IBEW can choke on a fat one. My wife worked for a competitive electrical union in 2006/2007. She was visably pregnant. The local IBEW president was unhappy that they were taking work, so he filed for all kinds of prevailing wage requests and tons of other paperwork just to make her do extra work. He and his other union thugs would stop in the office every so often for no other reason than just to intimidate her. She was often the only person in the office. She had difficulties with that pregnancy, and I attribute a lot to the stress he caused her. Thinking about it has me so mad I'm just about shaking. If I ever see that ****, it's going to be a bad day for him.

I sold a truck to a professional motocross rider. He traded in a van a lot like that. It had a back seat from an extended cab pickup bolted down behind the two front seats, and some sort of bulkhead behind it. It was actually a pretty cool setup.

For those of you keeping score at home, here's the update. I had the second mechanic inspect if further to figure out exactly what it was. He said it was the right side (passanger) catalytic converter. I picked it up Friday afternoon and was trying to figure out how I was going to fix it, and where to get the parts over the weekend. I filled it up with 93 octane on Saturday night (I had been running 89 octane), and within 5 miles it started running like crap. It absolutely fell on it's face over 3500 RPMs. The check engine light flashed when it started running bad. I drove it right home and parked it. I drove it to the shop and dropped it off on Sunday. It ran terrible at all RPMs to the shop, and the check engine light was on solid the whole way there. It felt like it was starting from 3rd gear because of the total lack of power (it wasn't, that just describes the feeling). He's going to check to get to the bottom of this today or tomorrow. If it's the cats causing the problem, they're coming off.

Do you have the passanger side catalytic converter?

Well, I had two friends that are both professional technicians look at it regarding the ticking/slapping/vibrating issue. It was doing it pretty good today. The first one thinks it's a lifter, although he didn't sound certain. He thought the sound was just resonating through the exhaust. Even if it is what he thinks, he's not sure what to do about it. He said at minimum, all of the lifters and cam would have to be replaced. If I do that, there's no telling how much metal found it's way through the engine. The other options would be to replace the engine, or dump the truck before it gets bad. The other friend is convinced it is a baffle blown out in the exhaust, causing the rattle. He had a Silverado SS and said he had the exact same issue with his truck at 8,000 miles. I really don't know what to think.

Will this even work on our trucks? The ad says it's for 4.8 and 5.3's. It also says it's part number 14260. Corsa part numbers for our trucks are 14279 and 14289. I have no idea what they could have changed between the two, but there must be some difference.

Thanks Fireman. I don't think the oil filter is a Fram. I couldn't read it, but it's a yellowish color. The oil was changed at a GM dealer before I bought it. I'm half deaf, but the sound seams to be coming from the bottom end. I thought it was the A/C compresser at first. I'll clean the MAF sensor and throttle body some time this week. The exhaust is stock. I banged both cats, and no loose sounds from them, but when I hit the driver side cat, I could hear the rattling coming from farther back in the truck. I'm going to have to get a buddy to bang that cat while I figure out where the rattle is.

Yea, it's flush on one side, not on the other. If I split the difference it might fix it.

I bought my truck about 6 weeks ago. I've noticed a few things that I would like to get to the bottom of. Some people have accused me of being OCD, especially when it comes to my vehicles. It's a 2003 Sss with111,000 miles. Any help would be appreciated. Start up. When I start it up when it's cold, it makes a ticking/slapping sound for about 30 seconds. During this time, it absolutely falls on it's face. I have learned to just let it warm up for a minute before driving. If I put it in gear immediately it almost acts like it wants to stall out. It kind of sounds like piston slap, but from my reading that is usually an issue in cold weather. It's been jungle hot here lately. Vibration/Rattling I have a rattling sound coming from the back of my truck. It sounds like an exhaust heat shield. I climbed under the truck (not easy with my fat ass), but could not find any loose exhaust heat shields. The sound is pretty intermittent, but when it's doing it, it does it most often at about 1000 RPMs. Ride Height I've read a lot of people talking about lowering the back of their trucks to level them out. My truck is pretty damn level. I'm wondering what the previous owner did to it. I think he may have cranked the torsion bars up to lift the front end. I have the stock 275/55/20s. I measured from the ground to the bottom of the fender, running by the middle of the wheels (hope that makes sense). On the driver side, the front fender is 34 3/4" off the ground. The rear is about 35". The passenger side is a little higher (typical Chevy lean?). Here's a pic of the height Bed narrower than cab This one isn't too big of a deal. I think I'm the only one that notices it. Anyhow, the bottom of the bed is narrower than the cab. Specifically, the passenger side cladding is inside that of the cab by about an inch. The driver side is perfectly smooth. From under the truck, it doesn't look like the bedside has been damaged in any way. I'm kind of at a loss on this one. I'm sorry if these issues have been beat to death. I tried to do a search, but the words I used didn't really come up with anything. Thanks.

The triggers on those are amazing. I've thought about getting one, but I shoot Glocks competitively and really don't have the patience to learn a new platform.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't our Bose systems 2 ohm? If you switch to a 4 ohm speaker, the amp should make about half the power it did at 2 ohms. If you are going to keep the factory amp, replacing the door speakers with components is useless. The sound to the door speakers is is crossed over and is pretty much only midrange, so adding another tweeter will do no good unless you rewire the sound from the tweeters in the A-piller. If you do that, the crossover from your component set becomes useless. And for what it's worth, I'll take it a step farther than paulguy. Upgrading the rear speakers is a waste of money.

Well, I finally took some pictures. So far, I have replaced the front speakers, added Sirius radio, smoked the tail lights, adjusted the front bumper, and had a spray in bedliner put in it. The tonneau cover that was on it rubbed the paint off the top of the bed rails, causing them to rust. I had the rust ground off, and had a spray in bedliner applied over the rails. I'm not a fan of over the rail bedliners, but it was the best way I could think of to repair the rust.

I have a car seat and a booster in the back of my Silverado SS. One car seat fits great in the mddle of the back seat.

Money sent for 1. Thanks!

Imagine how nice it would have looked if they had cleaned the bugs off the front!

I'd trade my factory wheels for a set of black 22s.

I'm in for one.

You've almost caught up to my 1999 S10

Thanks for all of the welcomes. I did end up getting it. The exterior looks pretty good for a 2003, and it runs and drives great. The only problems I could find with it are the CD player doesn't work (the dealer is going to ship me another one), the front bumper needs to be adjusted (the dealer will pay for this), and I noticed on the way home the front driver midrange speaker doesn't work, and the driver heated seat doesn't work.