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Posts posted by skolman91
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I knew velocity or air speed would be brought up eventually..lol they each have their place guys..
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Everybody has their opinon, you just came off like you were bashing the l92s so i thought id chime in. They both have their place, and im guessing the op doesnt have the kind of coin it would take to make a stock set of l92s flow as good as a good name brand used set of cathedrals anyway. But that doesnt make them inferior, more air makes more hp plain and simple, and id bet you would lose a few tenths and gain some mph by making the switch, but again thats just my opinon..
and as far as the site goes, at one time it looks like it was more performance oriented, but not anymore really. It has its place, and thats for sss info, you can find better technical performance stuff elsewhere imo..
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I'm one of few that does not like the l92 heads, I hate sounding like I'm bucking new technology, but I just don't see the results from them that I and others have made through cathedral port heads. And I guess I can't say there are bad, and I understand why gm is using them....but I still just don't have a warm fuzzy feeling about them being the right choice for a guy looking to make some power. But my point is. On a dished piston motor, why sacrifice the compression with a stock l92 head? You can easily run 11.4 on 93 so why give up all that hp, ability to pull through a tighter converter, and ability to tame a larger cam down? Have you thought about ported 243, 799 or even ported 5.3l heads? Or at the very least decking the l92 heads, although I have no idea what ptv clearance you have with "x" cam and "y" cc chamber heads with "z" cam on a Lq4 piston. Heads are the key to making great power, from flow numbers to the chamber design being good enough to handle more advance so spend your money here. Depending on final head cc choice, I would consider a thinner cometic head gasket as well
how can you have the "fastest stock cubed n/a silverado ss" and not like l92 heads..? lol i think you need to do some more research.. You said it yourself heads are the key to making some good power, some all pro l92s will flow more than the best cathedral heads could dream of, now if your talking a good budget head, then yes id agree with your statement..
OP go to performancetrucks.net or ls1tech if your looking for some good info to read on, their's not much of that to be had here..
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I think you messed uP by getting rid of those tbss wheels , those looked sick.
I liked em too but also like these(they look better inperson btw), took awhile but once i saw somebody else rolling around on tbss reps and i was growing kinda tired of them i knew it was time for a change. But yea i agree they did look pretty good on there and probably fit the grey look a little better. But im happy with these, for now...lol And seriously doubt i run into somebody else with them anytime soon..
But i already rem why i hated polished or chrome wheels and always went darker wheels, keeping shiny stuff clean sucks!
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If your wanting to go faster sell me that tonneau cover to lighten the truck up some...lol glws
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Thanks, yea i thought the wheels would go well being greyish and i sorta wanted something with a lip this time.. Had the hood for awhile just forget about it really.. Debating on if i want to take the window vent covers off or not and hoping i can get a hard painted cover before winter time..
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painting over rust fixes nothing, it hides it to come back again and waist your money. These things arent rare, but you can bet a nice low mile one will be here in another 10yrs when most of them have a millon miles beat up and are rusted out, but that still wont mean they will be worth something.. syclones are a prime example of this, and their were alot less of those made..
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All it needs is to sit out in the elements, including rain for that to happen to the bottom sides of the doors, no snow or winter driving needed. It is common, my Tahoe has it and the SS is starting to show signs of it...
i disagree for the most part, of course everything will corrode eventually when left outside. My point is it shouldnt be common for cab corners, wheel arches and under doors that GM vehicles have been know for 5 decades or so! its rediculous.. a $40K+ truck and its body should last longer than 10yrs when cared for, not rust from the inside out.. If i didnt dislike other brands so much id be moving on, and still just might when it comes to newer vehicles at least..
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Happend to look under my doors at the seam today, way more rust there than their should be for a 10yr old truck, especially considering i know the last owner of my truck didnt even drive it in the winter. Pretty disapointed in GM not even being able to make a truck not rust in under 10yrs...
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lol this truck looks familar, maybe cause its in my sig now.. although it no longer has the l92 in it, got swapped back to the stock 6L before i got it..
look around, their are some tuners to be found in IN..
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same here, it will come back eventually unless its fixed right and replaced with new metal.. Im gonna try a temp fix here soon that hopefully buys me a couple more yrs, but i have my doubts..
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When you posted those wheels i figured price wasnt much of a factor, but yeah if youd rather lean toward a cheaper route but still nice cant go wrong with reps... I had the grey tbss wheels on my truck, looked good just got tired of them and decided to go a different way..
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Thanks, gives me a place to start when i get around to it..
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everybody has some form of reps, go with #2, they would look really good on a lowered blue truck imo...
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Grill is a black chrome street scene, and the old taillights are on the ss, just tinted now...lol
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Heres one more with the tbss wheels on before i took them off..
and then this is what it is right now in winter setup on decladed PC 20s, waiting to get a few things done and then ill throw the new wheels on it..
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Nope no way they would tuck imo, they stick out too much, Think ive seen a bagged truck tuck them but thats a little different..
but funny you bring this thread up today because i sold those and my new wheels just came in today, and they will tuck but im not concerned about that as im not really that low, just worried about liner rubbing..
euromax 22s
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I got 140000 mile and mine doesn't move I don't think there is a known issue yours just moves
No ive read about it before i just cant find it because the search sucks here, thanks tho..
It doesnt do it all the time either, maybe just on a little more aggresive take offs...
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Search sucks, anybody fixed the loose drivers seat issue, can feel it move back a little when you take off... Feels like a worn out bushing or something but i havent even attempted to look or take a guess yet..
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Aha!! Your close to me. My covers paint is matched perfectly and the paint is in real good condition. Wanna make a deal?
yea we can talk about it thats why i posted, but i cant promise anything as i dont have much free funds available right now.. we have talked about your hard cover before if you recall.. prob about a yr ago to be exact...lol
pm me..
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ive got a low profile extang that would prob work for what your looking to do with the wing, and id still be interested in your hard cover as long as the paint is good.. Im not sure exactly what model it is, either revolution or express, but its low profile and rolls up with the bars attached and has velcro on the sides.. does your hard cover go over the stock bumper cap??
heres about the only pic i could find barely showing it...lmk
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GM's oem chrome most def pits and flakes eventually, really bad actually.. Its all about how you take care of stuff in salty regions imo...
Tbss wheels what size tire 22x9
in Rims and Rubber
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x2, thats a 40, a 305/50r22 is a big ass tire, even for stock height..