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I’m looking for an oem 6 disc cd changer in working condition. Anyone got one for sale?

Thank you for your reply. I checked with Hagerty. They would not underwrite it. I was told it was not on their list of approved vehicles. Grundy will underwrite it but will only do so for approximately 2/3 of market value plus receipts. Which is in my case $30k.

Does anyone have recommendations for insurance companies for 2003 Silverado SS? I am having a hard time finding a new carrier that will will cover its value. I have all labor and hardware receipts for the mods from 2018/2019. They total close to $25k. So I figure it needs to be insured for $45,000k. Thoughts?

Well, kind of. The current tires I am running are about 31" tall. The area under the bed of my truck (near where the stock location of the spare would be) only allows for a 28" tall tire. This is due to the fact that the OEM bumper has been removed and replaced with a custom roll pan. The stock sized spare tire has been sitting in the bed of the truck for quite some time and I would like to put it back under the bed of the truck. Since the stock spare tire size will no longer fit, a smaller tire of about 28" tall will need to be used. So if an emergency comes up and I get a flat tire, can the 28" spare be used temporarily (three of the tires would be 31" tall, and the spare would be 28" tall) without causing any damage to the AWD system?

I used to run 22x10 wheels with a 12" wide tire and they did not hit or rub anywhere. Although it looked like a "muscle" truck, I didn't like the way it drove so I ended up finally going with a 22x9 wheel with (i think) a 10" wide tire. Its' a 2003 Silverado SS AWD, stock suspension btw.

2003 Silverado SS AWD I currently have a roll pan on the back of my truck (no bumper). This does not allow the full size spare tire to be mounted in the OEM location under the bed. The full-size spare tire has been just sitting in the bed of the truck for several years and I would like to take it out permanently. I "think" that I can potentially get small spare tire top fit in the OEM location underneath the bed. Is it possible to TEMPORARILY run a small spare tire in an emergency situation without completely destroying the drive train? I always carry a can of fix-a-flat in my vehicles, but it wont always work in some situations. So I need to keep a spare available somehow. Thanks for your input.

Thank you! I have plans in place to have a transmission built and a proper torque converter installed. Then it will likely go back on the dyno so the transmission an engine can be tuned together; although I'm not sure that it is necessary to do so. I'm guessing the tuner might be able to do whatever needs to be done without putting it back on the dyno. We'll see. Then hopefully sometime in the not so distant future I am going with bigger fuel injectors, high pressure/flow fuel pump and an over-drive pulley on my harmonic balancer. I'm doing all of this in hopes of bumping up the boots some more and getting some more horsepower out of it. Not sure if its possible or not, but id like to think that i can get another 75-100hp? thoughts? Also, yes, you should NOT run the SS without the front drive shaft. From what I understand it WILL smoke that coupling. There is a very specific procedure to follow for dyno tuning an AWD on a RWD dyno. Follow it and there should be no damage to the transfer case.

There are some very specific procedures in regard on how to dyno the AWD Silverado SS on a rear wheel drive dyno. It has to do with removing the front drive shaft at the last minute, just before the pull and NEVER touching the brake pedal with the exception of tapping it to get the transmission from PARK to DRIVE. Then reinstalling the front driveshaft prior to driving the truck of of the dyno. Please do not take this post as a “how to”. I recommend doing a site search on the subject then doing the same thing on the web. This procedure works just fine, I did not have any issues.

Finally had a chance to post the numbers from my build. 2003 Silverado SS AWD 67,000 Miles LT Headers Full Custom Borla Exhaust Whipple 2300 @ 8psi MSD Programmable Fuel Pump Booster BTR Blower Cam Kit Granatelli MAF Tuned on a Mustang RWD Dyno Made 560 rear wheel horsepower and 534 ft-lbs torque. Do those numbers seem good?

All, I am finally ready to pull the trigger on my engine build and wanted to gather some opinions from the experts on here. The build I currently have pending is as follows: 2003 Silverado SS with 67,000 miles JBA Long Tube Headers Full Custom Borla dual Exhaust with X-Pipe Whipple 2.3 kit Cam KitCam 227/234 .614/.576 113+2 Springs, retainers, etc Pushrods Fuel pump booster Custom Dyno Tune Everything else will remain stock My goals are 550-600hp & 500-550ft-lbs torque at the crank. 100% daily driveable. I am not planning to replace the torque converter. My main concern is the cam specs above. I have been told not to go above .551 lift on the LQ9. Anything higher than that will have clearance issues. The builder I am planning to have do the work for me recommended the specs listed above. Should I be alarmed? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the input guys. I may be selling the complete engine including the intake, valve covers, injectors, coil packs,etc. (minus the ECU). What do you think it would be worth with all of this? $2,500 seem fair? Thanks again.

I am getting very close to removing my engine from my 2003 Silverado SS and replacing it with a new stroker motor. I am going to sell the stock motor and am trying to figure out what it is worth. It only has 64,000 miles on it. There is nothing wrong with it at all. The engine will be complete with the exception of the following: *Intake *Valve Covers *Coil Packs *ECM Any input is appreciated.

Any other seasoned experts have any advice?

Here is a pic.

Thank you for your reply and suggestions zachm89. I was beginning to wonder if I posted in the wrong section or what! I really like the idea of keeping the original engine a 6.0 and doing a blower (radix or whipple). Mostly just for the street-ability. From what I have researched and been told, if I ONLY do the blower, I can expect right around 465hp/450ft-lbs at the crank. This would be well short of my goal. Now, from what I understand, if i do the blower, cam, and heads, I should expect more hp and tq, but I have not been able to determine how much. So do you think with a "streetable" cam and heads I could shoot for 585hp/450ft-lbs? If so, can you (or anyone else) give a recommendation for head and a cam? Now, if I decide to keep it NA as a stroker, with the specs listed in my original post, I have had different cam recommended. This one is 228/228 duration, .600/.600 lift on 112 lsa. I have been told with this cam, on this stroker, with a 3000, stall, I should be at 585hp minimum using a conservative tune. And still be very drive-able with a little lope at idle. I have to keep my total budget at NO MORE than $10k. This would include doing all the install work myself (with the exception of tune- likely blackbear mail-order). For example, if doing the stroker, I would buy a complete short block and install it in my struck using all my oem components (wiring, coil packs, injectors, etc). If doing a blower/cam/heads, then I would install all of that on my stock 6.0. I will try to post a pic of my SS in a little bit. Thanks again BTW!