SuperDave

My neice has a late 90's Pontiac Grand Am with a indash CD player that skips really bad. Does anyone on board here know why this would just start for no reason, and what we can do to fix her up? It's not just on any one disc, but every disc... and it skips bad at the least little shock from the road. To me it sounds like the tracking motor is kaput, but I'm no pro. I suggested a new head unit and JL Audio speakers but she wants to save her money. I told her I would ask around. Can anyone offer any info? Thanks guys!

The damage was not there when I pulled it into the shop, I had just detailed the truck, Zaino's and everything. I picked it up two days later, got it home and washed it again and it was there. I rubbed most of it out this morning with 3M liquid polish #9539. I'm still wanting someone that knows to let me know my options. The dealerships are liable for damages to your vehicle when it is in their care.... just have to prove it. I'll never leave it unattended again..... this type of stuff shouldn't happen. They are responsible for caring for your vehicle like it was a new one before sale.

I took my truck into the dealership for a noise in my blower box for the AC system. It ended up taking two days of leaving my truck there to get the part and work done, this afternoon I picked it up and when hand washing it this evening I noticed several spots on the passenger side rear door and all down the bed where something has burned into my clearcoat. It was not there before I took it over, and I have no idea how to confront them with this issue. It's pretty much my word against theirs. My trucks only got 12K on it and I only drive it on the weekends when I'm off work. It's garaged kept but I have a gut feeling they won't own up to it. How should I confront them with it and what are my options if they deny any damage there? I can't afford another big hit over this truck, and won't stand for it damaged.... Help!

Took the SS into the shop at 10 a.m. this morning. Went to check up on it at 4 p.m. only to find out it hadn't been touched all day. I asked why they made the appointment and was told they were two mechanics short. They looked at it real quick then, 1 hour later.... and told me they were going to change out the blower motor and fan. Twenty minutes later they come back and tell me they can't get a blower until the next day. This is why I hate taking my truck to the shop, even if it is under warranty. It stresses me out so much that they are so unorganized. If I was the Service Manager, the first thing I would do would be to make sure I had the parts to do the job especially considering that I took it there the day before to let them hear it. They have to be the most unprofessional, incompetent, non planning service department in the state of Oklahoma. This has to hurt GM's reputation.... I just wished we had a real shop nearby. Living in the Sticks.... Turns out it's gonna take a total of two days and Six trips to the shop (20 miles one way) in a POS rental car that gets worse mileage than the SS! Arrrgggghhhh!

My truck goes out of factory warranty the end of August, and I just discovered a new noise in the AC system. Coming somewhere from the area of the fan blower (passenger footwell area) is a continuous burping noise. I know that sound weird, but I'm at a loss for words to describe it. It is sort of rythmatic, easing slightly when the fan is turned to high. When you turn it off, the noise continues until you turn the truck off and remove the key. I'm guessing, but it sounds like a vacuum leak in the diverter plenum valving or tubing. Any ideas or other experiences with this problem around the forum? I've got to get this fixed this week, I'm on vacation and can't take off to go to the shop during work. Any help would be appreciated. I just want to be able to tell them what to look into. I don't trust my service department very well. My SS is a 2003 and only has around 12,000 miles on it. Garage kept of course!

The last time I took my truck into the shop for the clunk, they replaced my steering gearbox, shaft, intermediate link for the second time and the Pitman and tie rod ends. My service manager told me the gearbox wasn't up to the task of controlling 20" rims and tires and they put a heavier box on my not of the head office or something like that. I haven't noticed any noises out of it since. The popping noise it was making was very unnerving to say the least, but it's gone now.

I didn't know who they were affilliated with, but YEP... that's the one! <http://www.aeroexhaust.com/?flash=1> Supposed to be pretty awesome... It sounded great on the Tahoe, but I want to hear one on a 6.0 liter before I buy.

I'm a X welder by trade... and I must say if those welds are TIG they are terrible looking. Looks more like a MIG weld to me. TIG is a fine, precise and very strong weld. I'm not saying they will leak or anything, it just doesn't look like a quality TIG weld. Has anyone here heard the AeroTurbine muffler yet? I keep hearing a lot about them, and heard one on a Tahoe which was really sweet sounding. I'm still running my stock exhaust, and it's starting to annoy me. Trucks almost three years old, got almost 12,000 miles on it and I'm dying to get a new exhaust, but I'm doing Ceramic coated Hooker headers, and true duals with dual high flow cats and O2 sensors. I want to do it right the first time.

Yes... that's exactly what I need but..... it's used I have no idea what condition it is in, and the item cost is 20.00 plus 15.00 shipping! 35.00 for a part that might not be any better than the one I currently have! Thanks a lot guys.... I'm looking for a new old stock replacement for my old door. If I could see it in person and it was in good shape, no problem.... but not from 3000 miles away.

Thanks for the efforts guys... but no luck yet! SoCal... my truck is a 1991. Classic Industries goes from 55-72. Kaotik ... they have some really cool stuff I might be into but not the interior plastic parts. Thanks again guys.... I'll keep searching! David

I've got an old 1991 Silverado SWB 1/2 ton pickup I use as my daily driver so I can save the SS for weekends. It's only got 77,000 miles on it and runs great and looks pretty good considering it sits outside in the weather 365 days a year. The interior is starting to show a little wear and I want to make it new again. I have a headliner, carpet and sound deadener kit, new door panels armrests and weather stripping. I need to locate a new glovebox door, mine is warped and won't even turn off the glovebox light its so bad. I don't want a black replacement, I want the original red color. I also want to replace the factory seat belts and trim. So if anyone knows a good online source for older chevy truck parts that might handle some NOS items I would really appreciate a heads up. My truck is black outside with red interior and velour split bench seats. I've searched the internet with no results, and the body shops have to much markup to make it feasible to go that route. Plus they say I'll have to buy the black and dye it, then they tell me the dye will flake and peel after a short period. Please help! Thanks a bunch guys! David

The 1969 Camaro ZL 1 had an all aluminum block and heads 427 which was factory rated at 430 hp... but actually pumped out over 530 with a tune and headers. 69 were built Then there was the COPO 9561 Camaro which had a 427 ci cast iron engine... or something like that. Both were stripped down Camaros known as sleepers... very plain and deceptive. Dragstrip sleepers for sure.

Pure tire shredding performance.... awesome! I almost peed my pants!

I got a Black Razr V3 from Cingular when they came out, not a single problem with the phone, and my battery lasts me over a week on average. I don't use the camera, and I don't text message, but I've got it if I need it. My previous phone was a Motorola Vader which I loved. It was about the size of a matchbox car but was analog and had no features. Just a phone. My only complaint about the RAZR is the screens get smudged up really easy, it's no big deal, just the only thing I don't like about it, well, that and it is moderately hard to hear the person calling without a bluetooth headset. Overall I'm happy, it does have the cool factor.... check out the pebble or the slvr by Motorola.

My SS: Onyx Black 2003 Model Stock motor, trans, exhaust, suspension SuperChips MicroTuner Volant CAI with RAM air tube Goodmark Cowl Induction Hood (paintmatched of course) Bedrug drop in liner Lloyds custom SS carpeted floor mats ( front, and full width rear) Mobil 1 oil filler cap, factory fill decal, and 5W-30 Syn. oil and MP-206 filter Llumar Limo tint all the way around (not windshield) Zaino car care products Nitrogen filled tires Griots Garage Micro Fiber drying towels Sylvania Silverstars Lightbulbs in high and low beam, Turn signals and DRL's (good mod!) Painless Wiring Hi 4 headlight conversion (30 amp relay, fused) (good mod !)

If this is a "you install" option, how tough and involved was it? Can you give links to the supplier of your or Zippy's kit? Thanks, Ben. SuperDave

I tell people it's my afterburner cooling down...

Hey Ben, I've got no immediate plans to SuperCharge, and simply want firmer faster shifts, which Shift kit do you recommend? Servos?

That's not transmission parts.... its the cars you ran over while looking in the rear view!

Hey Dr. Mike, Get ahold of Zippy via PM or the "build date" post and find out when your truck was built. Send him the last eight digits of the VIN number. He'll send you the date, then you can find out what day it was made on last years calendar. (My guess is it was made on a Monday or Friday). He may be able to find out for you if there were any problems in the build of your SS. Good luck, SuperDave

Orange peel is an unavoidable side effect due to the method of application. Most of the time people don't worry about orange peel, it is just accepted. All show car paint jobs have it, they just perform another step before the finished product is revealed. After the paint has been baked on, in either a single stage or base coat application, the paint is color sanded with progressively finer grits of wetsanding. Usually starting with 400 and ending up with 1000 grit, sometimes 1500 grit, and then polished with a high speed (1700 to 2200 rpm) foam buffing wheel to produce the finish shine and texture, which I might offer is smoother than the ass of a newborn! In a basecoat paint job the color coats receive the sanding, and after the clear is shot and baked they are buffed. A real pro will take the time to 2000 grit wetsand the entire clear coat and polish it with a high speed buffer also. This is a very labor intensive and painstaking process and costs are extremely high. That's why most daily driver vehicles have to settle for orange peel in their paint. Simple huh? P. S. - Try a good hand washing first followed by the clay bar treatment then see if you still need buffing. My SS was covered with tree sap and fallout when new, I thought it was textured at the factory for a minute! Clay baring the truck took it all out. I have used all different kinds of clay bar, and the best is Clay Magic brand. The clay lube seems to work better with the clay. And most body shops in my area swear by it. SuperDave