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detjoe

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Posts posted by detjoe

  1. my laptop is only used for running HPT and is so unupdated that I am still trying to get the 2.24 to run...having some issues with the .net framork :(

    not totally stuck...got an email to support@hpt and am going thru a bunch of updates while I wait...

  2.  

    whats your take on turning off LTFT and just let the STFT do the work?

     

     

    My take is that you need to turn them off to use your wide band to get your VE and MAF correct. After you can turn them on, but they should have little work to do because you have corrected your airflow/fuel to not need (as much) adjusting

     

    Now if you are asking about running with them off in a Speed Density (SD) tune there might be more discussion...

  3. I raised them up...think they are 20 now in my idle cells.

     

    I was logging and saw 4' of knock when it went into PE @ 4k rpm??? is that normal?? Want to log it again and double check, I think its real, b/c it was when I rolled into WOT, not from a dig when I get some header hitting the frame false knock...and it would get me a lot better run if I did not lose timing right in the middle of the rpm range

     

    I was playing with my timing at idle and saw 50 kpa at 20'...moving the timing did not change the reading much, it might have dipped down to 48.

  4. 19' for most idle areas, 1200 rpm it is higher, 21 and 22. 1600RPM is @ 34' at low air mass and decreases till.44 g/cyl where its 25'

    in the HO table, the values are 24-25'

     

    so the higher values are on the High Octane table, should I decrease those to look like my idle timing in gear table?

    I will post up my tune when I get to my lap top.

    having issues with how big the tune/log file size

  5. there are other injectors out there too...some with better tuing data than others, BUT I am running them too so I get confused about if having all that data is really worth buying a guys book or some expensive arse injectors...but then you look at a video of the knock off injectors sucking and relaize how important good injectors are.

  6. Its a LS3/Truck TB and a gen 2 x link. I did not cut any wires. I have an issue where I cannot goto WOT=100TPS, so I have changed a few settings so it does see WOT @ 98%TPS. I felt like I could have broke my leg trying to stomp the pedal to 100% :)

     

    I have not checked my AC...for the most part I force it to stay off. I will try to cycle it on/off and see if it does anything, but I am pretty sure it is not related.

     

    My thinking is that timing is the quickest changes to take effect. If I command very different timing at cells that are close in maybe a temp setting then as the truck temp raises as I sit at the light, the timing bounces back. Would less timing=lower RPM...and then if the RPM dropes the other modifyers come into play?????

  7. So I have been working on my tuning more :) haha

    I changed up my trans settings to Zippy's and the truck feels some much better and less banging shifts...

     

    So I am now chasing down a new issue, well its been there a while, I just now am looking to get it right b/c of how big a differance the trans settings had in the driveability of the truck.

     

    So when I am at a stop light, the idle will drop 50 RPM. Raise back. About 10 seconds will drop again.

    it is totally repetative and comes as expected after about 10 seconds.

     

    Would this stumble be in the idle section of the tune? or should I check some other areas?? It is like a timer or counter is going and pulls some RPM's at the same interval. I need to check if it happens in PArk too.

     

    Thanks for looking :)

  8. you need to tell the program whats its reading when the record gets pressed.

    in the scanner>scan>MPVI pro standalone data logging>write config.

     

    it will write the confing you are using to the memory of the unit and then when you push the button it will record using the config you want.

     

    give that a try and see if its still givijngt you an error

  9. guys there is an option thats not that hard and will stop them in there tracks unless the have a flatbed on hand and in that case there is nothing you can do so i hope you have good insurance lol.. . so anyway you need to extend your fuel pump wiring into the cab somewhere where only you know and have removable fuses excess-able to where you can pull them every time you get out of your car with out being suspicious about it. with out fuel the truck isnt going to get far if they are lucky they might get it out of the parking spot .

    I like this idea, my buddy had a car that you had to touch this screw in the dash to make it fire...I could never start his junk b/c of that dang screw.

  10. got the truck back;

    $125- tow

    $85-parts

    $150- for the key guy

    $50-extra for the key guy taking care of my baby

     

    I upgraded the lock cylinder to the new style with the ears, so you are not pushing on the key...all else looks good, now I need to address my doors. I was thinking club, but I HATE the way they look!

  11. new column was $85...got me all the parts I need and now I have an extra wheel.

     

    Could I convert the gear shift to work a NNNBS gear selector with the +/- ?? I am not using it but wondered.

     

    I think when its all done I am going to have the orginal key

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