CaptKirk
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Posts posted by CaptKirk
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What gen Tacoma do you have?
Haven't purchased yet. But I'm looking for a '12-15, after they did the facelift but still with the 4.0 v6. I heard the new ones are weak on power and the trans is constantly searching. Plus I don't like the new front end they put on them.
Another positive side to the older 4.0 v6's is theres a company that's been making very competent, bolt-on, fully tuned blowers for them for years.
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Dang! Sorry for your loss I live in Spring too
I'm pretty sure I see you cruising around from time to time. If you see someone wave in the future out of a blue mk4 Supra or a white Tacoma it's me
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Thanks guys. I was able to argue the value up to 10,700 with CCC1. The biggest thing that helped was having pictures, and showing receipts and work done to try and prove better value than "average private". Once they came up to "dealer retail" on a few line items that really helped.
As of now the 'average mileage' is 170K, so if yours is under this that will help out a lot too. -
Sucks to hear of your loss bro, I've had one of mine stolen about a year and half ago and went though the same BS they always try to lowball you. Check your appraisal report (if you've received one) and make sure that the title says "SS" after the VIN. I say that because my insurance went through a third party appraiser (CCC1) or something like that, and they had LS after my trucks VIN and were really out to lowball me. But after two months of fighting with them over it they finally contacted (CCC1) and had the appraisal report redone with the proper submodel in the title and I got what my SS was worth, but it was an ISS so that made a bit more of a difference.... maybe.
Geico is using CCC1 too. I'll attach the report to this thread for now, let me know what you see? It does seem to be taking the SS into account... I'm mad at how little they're giving me for the updated suspension, brakes, and wheels that were on it. I easily could convince a dealer to pay more for the truck with these things on it...more than a few hundred for everything, I'm sure. This CCC1 company is BS.
I did get them to come up a bit on the condition with the pictures I added to the claim. So base value is up around 8700 now, but I know the condition of the truck inside and out would be "dealer retail". This is apparently the only step above "average private", but I bought it at a dealer in a HELL of a lot worse condition. I know they would just flip this truck without even noticing the exhaust needed replacing. Which was about the only problem with it.
Dammit man.
Houston sucks for these trucks. I'm about ready to add some other crazy antitheft shit to mine in addition to the things I've already done. Best of luck to you on getting yours back intact, or at least getting a decent payout from insurance. RichardYeah, I honestly might have avoided buying one if I knew about Houston, but I'm from FL and never lived in TX. Didn't know how much business there was in stolen trucks here. I'm getting something that flies way lower on the radar of the degenerate folk who are out to build 'clones' and all that sh*t. Getting a Tacoma then going to supercharge it and just have a sleeper daily. I gave up on getting the SS back.
I would definitely recommend some antitheft, but even better, GPS tracking. I want to catch the next thief that tries to pull one on me. I had my phone and wallet stolen earlier this year. The tacoma will be used as a guinea pig for the aftermarket alarm and GPS tracking. If I like how it goes, I will let them install one in my Supra. I will HAVE to recover that if it gets stolen, I would never even find another one like it.
This sucks, more and more SS' coming up missing weekly it seems like. When my brother flipped the truck I was building, his no name insurance offered us just under $13K or about $10K and a half if we wanted to keep the truck (which I obviously did to sell the drivetrain I had put into it.) The truck was a 2006 LS single cab short bed z71 with 92,XXX miles on it. I'm surprised they are only offering you barely more than half of what my truck brought. They're definitely cheating out. You should get 10-12 no problem imo even with 150K miles.
Wow, that is a good valuation just for the z71.
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Hey everyone - so my SS was stolen out of my driveway a week and a half ago. Had a hell of a time with Onstar and now insurance is trying to lowball me.
First off, if you happen to spot it, let me know, but I REALLY doubt it. Black 2003, dark tint, soft tonneau, TX2K15 sticker on rear window, exhaust, clear corner headlight housings, HIDs, 22" chrome reps.
Secondly - Has anybody gone through trying to value our trucks to insurance and had them come up on their appraisal? I have been giving them all sorts of receipts for the mods and extended maintenance I did that *should* actually add value but they're barely giving me squat for it all. So far like 250 bucks for almost 7K in parts/labor. Also been sending them lots of pics to try and prove it was definitely not "average private value".
Thirdly - If you're in TX and have recently bought, sold, or traded in your SS with a dealer I'd be interested to hear what you got. Your transaction might help me get at least 10K for my truck, they're trying to offer me 8500. It had 150K on it, but I think it had way more value than that. I would have happily bought that truck for 12.5K. I bought it for 12.2K without a single mod and it needed tires.
Thanks everyone.
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oh wow, surprised I didn't find that in all my googling.
I will definitely keep the ARP hardware in mind. Once I have the extra cash I'd like to go in and do CAI, LTs, a real exhaust, and a tune. I'll add the header bolts onto that plan for sure.
Thanks for yalls help once again. Hopefully others find this thread worthwhile
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Good point. The replacements that came looked to be pretty stout and the heads were 12mm instead of 10. No wonder they're always snapping off if the torque spec takes them close to failure....Although wouldn't be the first thing that's designed to start falling apart once the warranty expires, that's basically an engineer's job in a lot of industries.
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Well, decided to save myself the cost and do it on my own. I would have been completely done in about 1.5 hours if it wasn't for the broken studs. It's a pretty simple job once you take out the fender liners. The passenger side is a breeze and the firewall bolt on the driver side can be had at if you have a swivel and about 2 feet of extensions.
Two studs were broken though, unfortunately the two furthest against the firewall on driver side where I was hearing the ticking from. I was able to get one out with vice grips (they both snapped right at the bolt head so there was some sticking out), but the other twisted off flush when I tried it the same way. That's where the real fun started. My exhaust is super rusty, so wasn't able to separate the cats, or get all the bolts to pull the manifold off completely. Had to wedge bricks against the driveshaft to bend the exhaust enough out of the way, then call my friend over who had a welder. Took us 4 or 5 tries, but finally we got a good weld on it and it backed out pretty easy.
I guess we should consider ourselves lucky that the bolts weren't anymore seized and that only 2 broke and 1 came out with vice grips... still. took around 6 or 7 hours because of all that to finally get the truck buttoned up. That was with the help of my friend too. Going to hope it holds, we'll see after a few heat cycles. 18 lbft seems really weak for a torque spec on mani bolts, I set them at 20.
Anyway thanks for chiming in everyone and helping diagnose that. Total cost was about 30 bucks with shipping, and half a day.
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quotes for labor coming in around 350 to do gaskets.... some say contingent on there being none broken off
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Every other picture shows both gaskets for the same price as ACDelco, but ACDelco only shows one. If I order the ACDelco, do I need two of these PNs?
I am gonna do gaskets and bolts on both sides, might as well.
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LOL, "Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?)". Yes, nearly every bolt in your SS is metric. The automotive giants went metric back in the 90's.
I agree that it's very common for broken manifold bolts, I got the pleasure of extracting the driver side one closest to the firewall when I did my headers. As far as access goes pull the front wheel and the wheel well liners and you will have nearly straight access to the bolts but will need some ratchet extensions.
Unless you do find a crack in the manifold(s) and are not interested in performance upgrades at this time I would just reuse the manifolds. I would just get new gaskets from the dealer and new bolts and put it back together.
lol, I was starting to think someone had the truck rebuilt at a chopshop and washed the title, that's good to know, I have way more metric tools.... Didn't know all the american makers were also metric, never owned one or worked on one lol. I bought tool sets with both cause I thought the truck would be standard
Thanks for the budget friendly tip. Considering I dont really have the time that it seems it will take to take off/break/weld nuts onto broken shanks, etc, I'll probably just take new gaskets and a fresh bolt set to a shop..
The bolts are 10mm, later motors got 13mm heads,but those snap off too. The best motor I've delt with had 1 broken off, the worst was 5. Sometimes you get lucky and the head snaps off and you can spin it out with a vise grips, but usually they snap off flush with the head.
hahahah, that's "lucky".... no thanks.
appreciate the input everyone. I'll followup once I have this done somewhere.
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So I got a good look at it today and brought along a stethoscope. Good news is I didn't hear any ticking through the stethoscope from the heads or anywhere else, there was a slight howling sound but I think that was just belt/wind/fluid noise being transferred in.
Also, I now can see that I am definitely missing one of the manifold bolts, and it looks like there's a slight mark of blow-by right above it. The way it looks, it could also be from coincidental dirty fluid draining down from up top to the same spot...but I'm pretty sure it's blow-by.
So assuming its an exhuast leak...few considerations:
- Everything has a very rusty/seized look to it.
- I may also have a small hairline crack in the manifold too but not where the exhaust leak seems to be coming from, it could also just be a rust layer flaking off.
- Should I just replace everything from headers back? Would be substantially easier to do this work with all new components. However, I really don't want to sink 2000+ into the truck, I have some other big purchases coming up soon and I should be saving.
- Will OEM replacements cost me what aftermarket will?
- How much of a PITA is it to remove an old rusty exhaust on these trucks? It seems I'd have a nearly impossible time reaching in there around the brake booster and steering shaft to break those bolts loose. I can't fathom how you get the one against the firewall. Not to mention the remainder of the system.
- Are these header bolts supposed to be 10mm? I've found a ton of metric stuff in my engine bay so far (unless this is OEM?), and these seem way small and out of place to be header bolts.
Ideally, I just want it to get fixed in an easy way without breaking the bank. Which may involve taking parts over to a cheap exhaust shop and letting them handle the work of removing/installation?
What's your guys' thoughts
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Yea, sometimes the miscommunication between people in the service and parts department is just plain nuts...
Oh, wow. speaking of miscommunications! I had no idea why you were offering that up but, yeah, I see what you mean.
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Just today my serice advisor told me a customer needed air in his tires, well I walked to the car and he said I hope you can help me with this noise I'm having etc... turned out he told her he had a grinding noise from the passenger brakes! When I quoted my advisor for front brake pads with resurfacing and 2 front tires she stared like I thought he only needed air?
Um....what?
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Thanks everyone.
The step rails have been KILLING ME. I hate them too. I asked the shop that flushed my brake system to cut them off with a torch (the bolts are seized) and they couldn't figure out what I meant..later I find out the guy at the desk completely botched the explanation and luckily the tech was smart enough to not go slicing up my truck. He couldn't believe what I asked for vs what he was told. I'll go back this weekend to get it done. The truck had bedrails too when I bought it, terrible.
Back to the noise:
I was out of town all weekend, but will find some time this week to investigate it. Thanks again for the responses.
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Haven't gotten to the truck yet, was out of town this weekend. But here's a video of a cold start:
Skip about :20 in, the fan was making it hard to hear.
At :40 I get in so you can hear the cab noise
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I had the same issue of a spongy pedal, and i mean spongy. The brake pedal would be on the floor and my truck would hardly stop. I did a small upgrade to the brakes and changed the pads and bled the piss out of the system. The same issues remained and the pedal would be on the floor and the truck wouldn't stop. WTF!! I bled the brakes and bled the brakes and bled them some more with same results. Finally I hooked up a Snap-on Scan computer that gave me access to the ABS, did the ABS self bleed function and felt improvement but not the best. I ended up doing the ABS bleed with the Snap-on tool about 10 times and my brakes have never felt better. After you do the ABS bleed you do have to do one final regular bleed at all 4 corners again as it purges the air and crap out of your ABS and puts it back into the lines. Again if you want great pedal feel and pressure do the ABS bleed with a scan tool that can access your ABS system, and you may need to do it multiple times but the ABS self bleed only takes a few minutes.
My brake fluid when I started this was also very dark green, so I do recommend changing brake fluid more often.
Brakes on my truck: Baer Eradispeed (larger rotors with relocation brackets for stock calipers), SS brake lines and new master cylinder. Truck stops great now and pedal feels 1000 x better.
Interesting. I called the shop who bled the system multiple times and they did not do the ABS bleed procedure, so I'll look into getting a scan tool that can do it. How much do they cost?
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Well, I haven't been able to get to this in the past few days, but I also haven't had the ABS light come on at all nor the vibrations coming to a stop. Just an update for anyone who may find this thread in the future. Maybe I got lucky..
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I should have looked for a better term than "partially collapsed lifter". If you had a lifter that was anything more than slightly collapsed you would probably notice a miss in the way the engine is running. My guess / speculation was that a lifter might be affected, either partially collapsed, or partially stuck, enough to make noise.
Either of those conditions might show up in a compression check. I would do a lot more checking and question asking before I started pulling parts off.
Have you checked for the exhaust leak? To answer your question about hearing an exhaust leak all the time, the answer is no, you might not hear a slight leak all the time but it could make a ticking sound especially under acceleration.
Keep us posted on what you find.
Thanks for elaborating. I will pickup a stethoscope and compression test kit soon to try and see if they hint at anymore clues. I don't think it's really hurting anything currently but obviously I don't want to let it linger, just been a little busy with work and dr. appointments.
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Okay I've done a good amount of reading around the past few days. It seems there's issues with older cars and their ABS sensors getting messed up when they age. Some claim rust starts to slowly separate the sensor from it's mounting spot in the hub and that change in distance from the spot on the bearing it measures causes it to engage the ABS.
Whatever it is, I guess I will have to try and investigate the wheel speed sensors and maybe clean up wherever they're mounted. Has anybody had this problem or done this before? The symptoms are very clearly ABS intervening when braking at SUPER low speeds as in just before you stop. I have no wheel bearing noises when turning or straight at any speeds.
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Update...ABS light still going on and off. Getting the pedal vibration while braking at slow speeds. Wheel speed sensor?
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Thanks for your replies everyone.
Exhaust leak is quite possible as the truck has 150k and quite a bit of rust from its previous life in the midwest plus it's neglecting owners... But one question about that, wouldn't it be audible all the time?
As for seafoam - it was done after I got the louder sound, and I didn't notice a bit of difference in the pitch of the ticking. I know it didn't cause it and I don't think it made anything worse..
I'll go look for a stethoscope.. maybe I can get a video of it and post it here too
An easy test for exhaust leak is to have someone stuff and hold a rag in the exhaust outlet then listen up and down the length of the exhaust system. If you have a leak you will hear a hiss from the leak.
Has the motor developed a miss? (Partially collapsed lifter?)
I would have no idea of how to confirm the collapsed lifter...did some research and it sounds like best case I pull the valve covers and have to check each cylinder at TDC..worst case pull the heads?
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Green is definitely not the right color and needs to be changed. I would not of sucked it out though. I just add new to the reservoir and push out the old stuff and keep re-filling the reservoir. Yes, your going to waste some new fluid as it mixes with the old but eventually you will just have clear fluid at each corner. At this point you probably have air in the ABS module and about the only way to purge that is to take it to shop that has a Tech 2 diagnostic tool and run the proper procedures.
I've had a strained back and it wasn't feeling so hot in the morning after the 5 hours or so of wrestling rusted/seized bolts off my brakes last night. So I just dropped it off at a shop and told them to flush it, and flush it again. They were astonished at how bad it was. But now everything's working great and the fluid looks awesome. Brakes feel definitely improved but not as great as I was hoping, which is in alignment of what other's have found as well who haven't done hydroboost yet. I'll get to that a little later.
Thanks everyone for your help.
If any of yall would like to chime in on my next 'task' with the truck, head over to my new thread: http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/89474-typical-engine-tick-became-louder-after-oil-change/
Stolen SS - Houston TX
in MiSSed Connections & SSpotted
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Very nice! Sharp truck, I like that concrete color too.