marcello7x

So its all back together mostly. I used a hammer and a sheet rock screw to knurl where the bearing went along with that bearing loctite and its in there good now. My only issue is re-installing the half shafts. I'm concerned for how hard to hit them with a hammer to get them back in. I gave it a few swings and no luck. So i backed off and left it unfinished while i finished out the heads and cam install. Maybe i just need a bigger hammer. Going to pick up a dead blow hammer and give that a try. My push rod measuring tool comes in today, so i'll have the rods by Thursday[thanks to amazon prime!] By then i should have made some changes to my base tune to get the truck to atleast idle. My cam isn't too big, with only 3.5* of overlap so tuning should be easier than when i did a speed density tune for my 404ci. One last thing, i didn't realize how F$#%$# hard it is to find nitrous[at a decent price] near Boston. I've never used it, so Im considering buying another 80cf tank and filling my own 10lbs when i need it.

Have you guys ever used dynomax super turbos? I have 2 on my 404ci with no cats. The sound suppression is unreal. It's a roadsters, and usually has the dumps open so I don't notice any drone if there is any. http://youtu.be/w1VRK55uuGM I also have one on my catless 1.8T VW. It's a 3"down pipe, to 2.5" resonator to the dynomax and it's almost silent. While magnaflow droned enough to give me a headache in 15-20 min. As for the X think of it similar to 2 Ys with the cutout in the middle. Before it splits to 2 again. I'm going to fab it myself. I'll post pictures once it's done.

So I bought my truck and it has a set of shorties on it. I'm in the middle of installing cam/heads and rebuilding the front diff. Figured with all the spare room from the heads being out I might as well pull the exhaust since its going to be a bitch later due to typical new England rust. So I'm trying to keep the whole truck super budget, BUT don't want to cause any bottle necks. The cam is in the 228 range, heads are lightly ported 799(same casting as 243 z06/ls6 ) at the very least I am cutting out the cats for straight pipes. None of my cars have them and I'm not starting now. Then I'm going to put in an X pipe with a single 3.5" cutout(already have the e cutout) then to 2 dynomax super turbo mufflers going out the back to the stock tip. The flowmasters on there now drone far to much for me. Is it worth the money to get LTs? I'm going to do all the exhaust fab work myself so that is basically "free". To keep it cheap and get the most out of the shorties I could also go up in pipe size off of the shorties. BTW it'll also get 100shot since I have a lot laying around as well. So far keeping shorties, with everything listed I'm still into the truck less than 8k. After these mods, it'll get wheels and a drop and I'm calling it a day.

I was able to find the green bearing loctite at a CAP near me. Once i get my inch pounds torque wrench in i'll get back to it. In the meanwhile i pulled my heads and am ready for my cam swap. IF i could get my harmonic balance bolt off. I tried every trick possible except wedging something in the flywheel for fear of breaking something and drilling out the center of the bolt. I just ordered a flywheel locking tool. Not an issue i anticipated since i don't normally drive automatics.

I think my options to "fix" the loose race issue would be to use a punch to knurl the housing a bit. That coupled with loctite 620 which is made for this specific issue. Lastly worst case i can weld tiny tacks to the race and grind them down so they are very shallow then press it in with the above methods.

So i think found the issue. Something caused the locking tab on the driver side to loosen. I went to go measure depth on it for a starting point when i reassembled everything, and as i went to clean it it spun on me. I pulled the axle seal and saw it was bent up slightly. I'm starting to believe that the spun race put added pressure on the locking tab and caused it to loosen. the clicking i heard must of have been the adjuster teeth hitting the locking tab. I don't think im going to swap the gears at this point. I didn't realize the bearing kit i ordered did not include the shims. So i won't be able to set correct pinion depth. If i reuse the current pinion and gear, i should be able to reuse the shim and have correct depth since all the bearings were replaced with koyo bearing which i what i purchased by dumb luck. OR Leave the pinion bearing as is, since its in good condition still. figure out my loose race issue/replace carrier bearings and reset backlash and be done with it. The part i am unsure of is how do people typically set pinion depth if the bearing has to be pressed on? IS there a safe way to pull a bearing to add or remove shims?

There was very very little metal. But not as much as i expected. And yes it must have been rebuilt at some point. I got my new bearings in, and the carrier races slide right in and out, does not need to be pressed in. They have been outside in the freezing cold all day, but i've never had something slide in that easy. I've read of people using some green locktite and hammering in a little tick in order to keep them in place. At this point i'm going to go through the rest of the rebuild. Its out and i might as well..

So this is my first post on here, I bought my SS in november and i started getting my first issue this past Tuesday. It sounds like clicking and clunking from the front end. Very irregular, so i ruled out CV, there was no play in the wheels so i didn't thing it was a wheel bearing. After some research found out how weak and often our front differentials tend to chew up bearings. My truck has 215k on it so i figured its probably time for a rebuild. With the long weekend coming, ordered a new ring and grear, and master bearing kit. Last night i pulled the diff, and tonight i took it apart. With the sound of the clunking i expected some carnage, but nothing!! Fluid was dark but fairly smooth with no real visible metal. Very little on the drain magnet as well. The gears are showing some age, but nothing that would cause the noises i've been hearing. The only thing i did find, was that the carrier bearing races slid right out!!! There are some markings that indicate they have spun in the case, as well as some wear in the surface that meets the bearing. My only thought is those started spinning causing the clicking. Someone chime in if they have experienced something similar. Should i go ahead and just rebuild everything? This is the first differential i have attempted to rebuild. I have rebuilt multiple Volkswagen trans-axles, but never "properly" with a proper machinist gauge or anything. BUT the last one i built has not had any issues over the past year. My pictures are too big to upload as an attachment, so i put them in a gallery. Side note, the sooner i get this done, the sooner i can do the fun stuff!!! I have my ported 799 heads and cam waiting to go in this weekend as well!