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someotherguy

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Posts posted by someotherguy

  1. On 2/10/2023 at 11:53 AM, sk_josh said:

    Forum has been upgraded and spam is being dealt with.  We are looking for members who wish to join the moderation team. If this is something you are interested in, let me know and ill send you an application.

    By the way I noticed your status update requesting spam be reported, I'm happy to, but please do cruise by the off topic/general section and it's a whole freakin' list of spam.  Not just replies to old posts but a bunch of more recent posts that are 100% spam

    Richard

    • Like 1
  2. On 2/10/2023 at 11:53 AM, sk_josh said:

    Forum has been upgraded and spam is being dealt with.  We are looking for members who wish to join the moderation team. If this is something you are interested in, let me know and ill send you an application.

    Man, that's great news.  I just visited on the off chance something had changed and WOW what an improvement.  No more passing by just to see the entire forum list with nothing but spam bot crap.  Thank you so much for cleaning it up.  I know the member base is falling off as the SS platform ages but there are still plenty of them out there and this site has by far been the best resource for SS-specific info I've found.

    Richard

    • Like 1
  3. On 11/19/2022 at 3:04 PM, Junior Cortez said:

    I want some

    That reply is from 2016, trust me those badges are long gone.  When I was rebuilding my truck in 2015 they were already hard to find.  The larger scripts for the doors were fairly easy then but the slightly smaller one for the tailgate was tough.

    These days I think all you'll find are the crummy copies (puffy/shiny vinyl sticker things) that are all the same size.  If you do find some real ones be ready to pay. $$$$

    Also this forum has been completely overrun with spammers to the point almost no real members ever visit anymore.  Plenty of good information here in the older posts but if you want a forum that has real people instead of just spam bots you might look elsewhere like performancetrucks forums (they do have an SS/VHO section but it's sleepy.)

    Richard

  4. (would've sent this in PM but it says you can't receive PM's)

    Hey, good to see someone from the moderators team active on the forum after what seems like a total absence for a while.

    Anything we can do about the spam bot takeover?  It looks like some of it has been squashed, but a few sections are still overrun with it.  For a while there the only new posts or replies anywhere were all spam, which makes the forum look dead to the world.

    I had reported several in the past but nothing was ever done so I just quit reporting.

    Thanks,

    Richard

    • Like 1
  5. You're better off not using a Dorman axle anyway.  I don't even trust the cardboard their crap comes in.  They might offer a few useful parts but I'm not sure what they are..

    And yes, your SS has a locking rear differential, you'll see the G80 RPO code on the service parts ID (SPID) label in your glovebox.  It's the Eaton Gov-Loc unit.  Since you have the cover off and will be needing to re-fill the gear oil, it's a great time to bring up this is not a posi unit, so don't put any posi additive in with the gear oil on re-fill.  Just use plain 75W90 synthetic gear oil, as indicated by GM in your owner's manual.

    Richard

  6. From "Duke75140" on GM-trucks dot com forums:

    "I used to fix a ton of these for the local Chevrolet and GMC dealers when I worked in a body shop. Start with the glass closed and latched. From the inside, door open or closed, lightly push out on the glass. If there is noticeable movement then the latch is not pulling the glass down tight enough to seal it. Now, continue at your own risk because you can break the window latch. Pull loose the upper part of the trim panel to gain access to the latch area. Disconnect the glass from the latch if you can but it is not absolutely necessary. Now, we used an extra large pair channel locks (or slip-joint pliers) heavily taped because it will scratch the paint and gall the plastic latch. The "lower" jaws of the pliers will go all the way to the metal "flange" where the window frame is glued. The "upper" jaws go over the latch but off to the side a little so you are not on the little bar where the window snaps in. Be careful to not be on the outer seal either. Now basically all you want to do is roll the latch toward the inside of the truck. It doesn't take much. Too much force will break the latch. When done properly there should be very little movement when you push on the glass from the inside. I would say this fixed 80% or more of these wind noise complaints."

    There's also some latch fix-it kits for sale on ebay that you could try.  I wouldn't bother though unless there's movement in the window as described by Duke ^^^ if the window isn't moving then the noise is probably coming from elsewhere.  The latch fix is a slightly longer latch piece to pull the window in a bit tighter, vs. bending the latch inwards as Duke describes.  Two different methods to achieve the same result.

    Richard

  7. On 7/11/2022 at 4:58 PM, meistro57 said:

    So far so good. Its running with a base, "break-in" tune with stock LQ9 injectors & throttle body using adapter plate. The specs from Blueprint engines for injectors and TB that were used on the dyno for this engine show 

    • 87mm LT5 DBW Throttle Body
    • 42# injectors and returnless fuel rail

    When I bring the truck to the tuner with awd dyno (after 500 mile breakin), I'm going to swap injectors & throttle body to match what they used on factory dyno. The injectors are easy enough to get. The throttle body has me a bit confused. Is there a gen 3 t body in 87mm or larger? I can get a 4 bolt but it has 6 wires and not 8 like I have now. 

     

    Don't personally know but recommend you ask over on performancetrucks dot net instead, as this place has been totally taken over by spammers.  They even are spamming each other at this point.  No responses from admins (nonexistent I suspect.)

    Richard

  8. Advice at this point is just move on over to Performance Trucks, they have an SS-related subforum on there that is kinda sleepy but the forums in general are pretty active.  And they actually monitor spam reports and kick out asshats like the one that is filling this site full of spam/malware links

    Richard

  9. 3 minutes ago, 03SSBoy said:

    Well that’s pretty annoying lmfao

    I gave up reporting spam posts a while back because the ones I reported are still here.  Just sent a message to the "admins" but looks like nobody's paying much attention anymore, if at all.  It's too bad.

    Richard

  10. NOW.. the site has officially died.  No attention paid to spam reports.. there's spam posts happening right now, plus many that have just existed for months and months, never getting deleted. :(  Sucks.. there's more new spam posts than new posts from real members

    Richard

  11. I'd take a real close look at the current stock ride height before worrying about which kit or parts you're gonna buy.  A 2/4 drop might be typical on a regular Silverado, but the SS is already closer to level ride height than a non-SS.  Might be why the kits you're finding aren't what you expect.

    Richard

  12. Welcome, sounds like a cool project - and I'm sure you'll be able to recoup a lot of your investment selling off the SS-specific parts as all that stuff is in demand.  Even if the body kit is beat up and brackets rusty, etc. don't trash any of it before seeing if someone can use it.

    I'm no expert by any means but the difference between the SS and a regular Silverado 4WD is not much, in terms of chassis.  Obviously the transfer case is AWD instead and the ride height is a bit lower, but it's otherwise a Silvy 4WD with the torsion bar front end setup.

    Throw up some pics.. let's see what you're working with!

    Richard

  13. Wish I had better info for you.  Best of luck on your trip!  And while I really hate to point anyone away from this forum, it really has pretty much died off in the last couple years.. I still visit, participate where I can, and hope others will too.  However, I'm on several forums, and one that is a lot more active and relevant to our trucks is performancetrucks dot net - it's definitely more geared towards modified trucks than stock, but there are a lot of knowledgeable people there (and some of 'em are on here, too.)  You might check it out.

    Richard

  14. It happened to me one time and one time only (knock on wood) on my 2006 when it had maybe 80K or so on it, and cycling the key made it go away.  I looked into it a little bit as it worried me that it might pop up again, and all I could find online were mentions of throttle body problems, but none of them seemed to have confirmed it was the solution.

    If you do some creative net searching you might turn up better info than I found a few years back.

    Since your CEL is on, you should be able to pull some codes and see what it's telling you, might be helpful.  Easy enough to spend a few bucks on even a simple code reader - I've got the BAFX Products bluetooth reader (under $25 and connects more reliably to everything I've used it on vs. the cheaper ELM327 readers), and Torque Pro app for android, $5.99 last time I looked.

    Richard

  15. Well that sucks.. hope the new owners take care of it!

    I'm not a "long time" member or anything as I previously was addicted to GMT400's forever, but have had my Intimidator since 2015 (bought crashed from Copart and fixed up) and my wife's silver birch 06 SS since 2016 (bought from 1Fastbrick.)  Still enjoying these trucks as fun daily drivers.

    Richard

  16. Wow; that sucks.. are you 100% sure the engine is bad, though?  I'd try to get some local recommendations on a trusted shop to give you another opinion.

    There's an O-ring on the pump that can fail and cause low oil pressure.  There's also of course a failed oil pressure sending unit that will freak you out with a low oil pressure reading/warning tones, but it's a false reading - if the engine isn't ticking, clattering, etc. then you know it's just a  bad sender.

    $9K for a stock LQ9 replacement?  That sounds like dealership cost on a GM crate long block plus other parts, materials, and labor.  I can't recommend any of the aftermarket suppliers as I haven't bought any engines from them, but you can get an LQ9-based engine with more horsepower for less than $9K.  Keep in mind there will be other requirements like custom tuning.

    I'd spend some of my budget on a Ravelco antitheft system..

    Richard

  17. 6 hours ago, daveofmilpitas said:

    I saw 1 for sale and was looking into what the heck it was and ran across you guys that are wondering the same thing. The ad says like an SS w/o the motor. Factory lowered, 22" wheels and exhaust and a 5.3L. The badges look totally gay.

    "Like an SS" without the LQ9, body kit, or anything else.. LOL

    That's some home-made mess right there!

    Richard

  18. 4 hours ago, christobear said:

    I like that tailgate spoiler, where did you get it?

    That would be an Intimidator SS spoiler (or repro) missing the bed corner pieces.  Rare as rocking horse shit..  I mean, the repro's are out there, quality is so-so.  Original parts - good luck

     

    Richard

    06SS_076s[1].jpg

    • Like 1
  19. Pretty clean, Welcome..

    The door handle issue is likely just the rod slipped out of the handle; the plastic retainer probably got brittle and let go.  It's easy to take it apart to see what's going on.  Memory is a little vague but I think mine did the same thing not too long ago and it was such a simple fix I've already forgotten.  IIRC I used a spare retainer I had hanging around from an old tailgate handle.

    Richard

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