misterp

It's not the shocks. The driving behavior you describe is a shot front-end, I would suspect both the ball joints and entire steering linkage. If the truck has over 100K-miles on the original suspension & steering especially on a lowered truck I would budget for a front-end R&R as soon as possible. If you have to do this in steps then I would address the control arms first (ball joints and bushings), then steering (tie rods, steering arms). The random behavior you describe is very dangerous in that the vehicle could suddenly steer itself in an unintended direction, I would not drive it until fixed. If the front tires have any appreciable mileage on them then they might need replacement as well *after* all the front-end repair. While you are at it, I would also replace the front half-shafts as well, they are $70 each. Lowering the truck exaggerates tie-rod, lower ball joint, and half-shaft wear, it's part of the costs of having a truck with drop spindles. Mr. P.

Safe journey! Let us know when you are finally home. Mr. P.

This is a great idea - I am sure you guys will get lots of participation. Mr. P.

OK so lemme get this straight - you are thinking of running L92 heads with the stock LQ9 cam? If so I would not do that, I would put your budget into a cam that specifically works with the flow characteristics of the L92 castings. Mr. P.

You might also find a set of used 2009+ factory Sierra Denali wheels, they are styled very similar to SSS wheels but I don't know their width... Mr. P.

They have a saying here in Texas: there's no such thing as too much horsepower or too much ammo. Serious answer - it's "too much" when it's no longer fun to drive or maintain. For me, I have no problem with refreshing the transmission every couple years, or changing oil more frequently, or running premium fuel but most people would be very bothered with not only the financial impact but the emotional drain of having to deal with increased repairs and issues. AFA the increased responsiveness, you'll get used to that. Drive the truck for 2-3 weeks, and if you still don't like it and it scares you then go ahead and install a larger pulley and tame the boost back down to 10-psi, and/or pull a couple degrees of timing out of the tune to 'domesticate' it a little. Mr. P.

Mr. P.

I can personally relate, I've been cited by Glendale PD back when I lived in Phoenix; sorry to hear the attitude in that agency has not improved in 15-years. Mr. P.

What you might seriously consider is (instead of 20" rims) get 22's, they will be wider and look great on a Suburban. I am pretty sure any 20" rim will be 8.5" wide, I am not aware of any 20" rim (factory or aftermarket) that is appreciably wider than stock. Mr. P.

Dude awesome - that is exciting; when will you be making your next set of runs at the track? Mr. P.

Post your timeslip results. Do you have HPTuners, or EFILive, or an AutoCal box so that we can see a log of your truck? I would expect your 60-ft time with that converter to be between 1.8 and 1.9 seconds, if not better, and a 1/4-m time of at least 14.00. What comp cam grind is installed? What injectors? Were you running on the 22s? With the weather so cold did you have traction/wheelspin issues at launch? Mr. P.

If they are slip-fit connections you can be assured they will leak IMO; there is only one kind of clamp to help with those, and that is the "accuseal" clamp, they're pricey $12-each. Mr. P.

I am still selling the kits and controllers on a case-by-case basis, I am happy to help everybody with their projects but there's just not enough volume to create a dedicated site & marketing effort etc. Contact me directly, either PM me here on the site, call me (254-413-3733) or email me ([email protected]). The information posted in past group purchase threads still applies, the kits have been improved a little over the last 2-years, and I have sold a prototype plug-n-play control box for '05-'07 GM fans as well, those are about the only product changes. At present I am out of kits (shrouds are on order) when I have them available this fall I will contact everyone that has expressed interest. Mr. P.

Thanks for the update - good to hear that you found and fixed the issue. - Steve

Thanks for the kudos Nikko - I am very glad to hear you really like your fans! Mr. P.

My preferred oil at the moment is Rotella T6 5W-40; my fallback is Mobil1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck oil. Both are available at Walmart. The only filter I use is the Mobil1-206. The reason I use 5W-40 instead of 5W-30 is because after adding the blower the motor's a little harder on oil now! The Mobil1 5W-30 was shot after 2500-miles. Pre-supercharger the Mobile1 5W-40 TDT lasted 4200-miles between change intervals and the engine didn't consume a drop IMO it was perfect; post-blower with the Mobile1 5W-40 TDT oil I have to add 1/4-qt at 2000-miles and the oil is pretty used-up at about 3000+ miles, you can tell there is a lot more heat in the bottom-end of the motor cooking the oil. The Rotella T6 has more zinc in it, I am hoping that will improve mileage between oil changes - I won't know how it compares against the Mobil1 5W-40 TDT until after a couple more oil changes. Mr. P.

The only systems with proven reliable controls are the OE GM system and the Torrent E-Fan Kit. Mr. P.

Option #3 - you've said that's your least favorite, for several reasons; so I would take that option off the table. Last thing you want is, "yeah it wasn't my first choice but everyone on the internet liked it so that's why it's black..." Option #2 - that color to me just looks like someone shot gray primer and then clear-coated it; the '32 already looks like it's in primer, so option #2 would be basically changing from flat black primer appearance to shiny gray primer appearance. Option #1 - Love it. It's dark enough gray base tone that it's not confused with "primer gray", and has definite metallic & irridescent as well. I think it would make the body lines stand out in sun or shade. I would go with Cyber Gray. Mr. P.

WOO-HOO!

Great picture! Mr. P.

Keep receipts of your oil & filter purchases, and write the ODO mileage on the receipt; that way you have a good record of date & mileage service was done. Mr. P.

Congrats man, that's one hell of a car. Mr. P.

I would do a coolant change, it has enough miles & years on it. I would also change the fan clutch. 100K-miles is a lot on both of those. Mr. P.

Yup, Friday.

LOL we've got a loooong way to go before I am ready for that! I'm still trying to just keep even with the LS-10!!