RacerJJ
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Posts posted by RacerJJ
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Checked the u-joints briefly. I will check them more thoroughly when I get under it this weekend. I have been looking on PT.net and several have said that a simple transfer case fluid change and a lube of the slip yokes will fix any clunking. I am going to try that because I must admit, I am a bit lazy when it comes to T-case maintenance unlike the rest of the truck.
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My first guess was exhaust hitting the truck, but then on decel...shot that idea. I have not had the clunk going stright, I really dont think so on a nice surface like a track, maybe over bumps.
Worn motor mounts allowing the engine to move too much and alllow the exhaust to hit the floor? YOu have LT headers??
Yes, I have LT's and I wouldn't say the dragstrip is bump-less! All of these examples sound great but the one that really baffles me is when I first heard it coasting through the staging lanes at maybe 5mph.
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Thanks! Question? Would the truck still run strong and shift correctly if the coupling was toast? When I heard the clanking the worst (decelerating and coasting) was right after my quickest pass of the day so I know she ran strong.
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50 views and no other thoughts huh? Well, I guess I'll just start tearing shit apart!
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I have all pretty much everything you need including a frame. Shoot me a PM with what your looking for exactly.
I need a front differential.
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Well, since theories aren't pouring in like I expected them to, how about this question?
Has anyone experienced the steering shaft clunk while going straight? Is that common? A couple of times I coasted through the staging lanes in neutral with truck turned off so I had to manually steer...could that have helped it along? The first time I heard it, I was going slow, just coasting. The two worse times were on deceleration...Any ideas?????????????????
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Check the transfer case, I had the same thing checked my transfer case there was a bunch of metal shavings in it. I am pretty sure my viscous coupler burnt up. Hope this helps.
Rob
Do you have a part number? And, was it difficult to replace?
Anyone else have any theories???
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could it be exhaust back fires
I guess it could be but it has never done it before. Plus, on the last run, the noises were in succession and very rapid almost like something broke and was clanking along the bottom. It eventually stopped though without me doing anything which is what's confusing me.
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Ok, I've done extensive searches and I don't think this is the normal clunking that everyone has talked about in threads past. Let me begin...while coasting in the staging lanes with the truck in neutral, I hear and feel two clunk noises right under my feet/front drive shaft area. I don't feel anything in the wheel. No biggie, I discount it as a bumb and I go on with my run. On the next pass while accelerating down track right around the 2-3 shift, I hear it and feel it again...just one this time. After the finish line, I pop it into neutral and I coast through the shut-down area...I hear and feel 3-4 clunks then it goes away. I go up for my next pass and no clunking through acceleration but this time, past the finish line I leave it in 3 and just coast off the gas and I hear and feel multiple clunking and clanking, then it goes away. I turn off track and drive to the pit with no clunks at all.
The question? WTF is going on here? Could it be the steering shaft thing even though it happened when I was going straight? I checked the u-joints for the front drive shaft and they appear fine. Any ideas?
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There is a member here selling a fully built tranny with everything you would need and the price is great. Check the For Sale section. I wouldn't call my trans built per se and I have had great luck with what I have done...knock on wood!
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This happened to me once at the track. I turned it off and let it sit for a while and then it was fine. I drove it to a nearby tuning shop and they said that it was common with after market converters and not to worry. They cleared my code and it hasn't returned since. I don't know if this is true or not but that's what they told me. Good luck with whatever you do!
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Wicked-hard shifts for one. Do you have a shift kit, servos, and a converter? If not, most recommend NOT ding this for a DD. Do a search of shift times or shift timing and there is a wealth of information available and many arguments for and against doing this. That's what I did all day today so check it out and good luck!
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Thanks Art!
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I searched and read a lot on this subject and before I change anything, I want to confirm this...
Zero-ing out the shift times table will disable the adaptive learn feature in the PCM and make for a really hard WOT shift. I have a 3200 stall TC, shift kit, servos, aluminum acctuator piston, stock line pressure and shift RPM at 5800, 5600.
I curently have the shift timing turned down but I am thinking of zero-ing it out to disable the learning capability. As a bracket racing truck only, I don't want my truck learning anything. I want it to run the same at all times (weather changes excluded, of course). Will this give me what I am looking for?
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So, the final verdict is that my new overall diameter will be 1.5 inches smaller than now. The question is do I (or should I, really) need to adjust the tune for this doing the auto scaling thing? I was thinking about adjusting my shift points anyway and a major goal of mine is to pull harder through the finish line a the track. What will happen if I do nothing to the tune in this case?
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What's so difficult about installing hangers anyway?
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I wouldn't extend the shackle anymore, it throws your pinion angle way off. You have a three spring leafpack, the shortest on the bottom is the overload, take that one out and it will you give you some drop. FYI it is probably gonna ride like shat and be super soft.
That would be ok. I only drag race the truck anyway. I guess I should just buy some hangers and do it right, huh?
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You cant use lowering blocks because your leaf spring is above the axle, and will raise it now lower it. The only way you can drop it more is, 2" leafs or hangers. If you wanna go ghetto pull an overload spring and see how it sits.
What do you mean? What is this overload spring? I am all about ghetto and cheap so if it works, I'll do it! What about just using some steel bar to extend the shackle two more inches.
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Will 2" lowering blocks work with 2" drop shackles?
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What is the radial tire size for 29 inches overall diameter with a 16 inch wheel?
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With your setup I'd say 5800-5900 would be about right so it's cool. The crossing rpm is from your tire height being too tall.
Cool. I am fixing that this week with new wheels and tires. Zippy, I sent you an email last night with my tune. Also, what about this shift time I have been reading about? Should I set mine to 0? If you look at my tune, you will see what they are at now.
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Yes, I think I have shackles. It was a long time ago so I don't remember but I'm pretty sure that's what they are.
Stupid 160 Stats!
in Off-Topic/General
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I had one lock up on me too. I went back to the stock one for now but as soon as I have time, I am taking it out all together. No need for a t-stat on a drag car!