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dneumannjr

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Posts posted by dneumannjr

  1. It's okay bro, at least like u said, he was cool. And like the others here said, maybe u can run him a again and get different results from a dead stop take-off!!! :driving:

     

    Heck, I like ur G/F already and I haven't even met ya'll before.... :D

    "the only good thing was my g/f was with me and said hey you may have lost but he had a guy in his passenger seat..."

     

    Depending on what model the Eclipse was, a dead stop race may not be any more acceptable. The Eclipse GSX was all wheel drive !

  2. but what makes it rice? cause the manufactors orignated from overseas? does it matter they are made in the US where as alot of US vehicles arent made here? theres alot of domestics that are rice. It just gets old almost 10 yrs later and ppl are still saying all imports are rice cause of a movie. I guess im just old

     

    Actually the term "Rice" actually came about because of the high strung / high RPM 4 cyl motors. Have you heard a high speed grinder used for processing foods? The term rice does not only apply to the overseas cars it was applied to any 4 cylinder auto. Having owned a lot of cars I have fit into that title as well but you know what it comes down to?

     

    My 12 second SRT 4 and other Misc turbo dodges could be called what ever you wanted to call them but the majority of people where lookin at my tail lights. All of the cars no matter what they are come with a stereo type. Drive what you want and make it worth it !

     

    Dave Jr

  3. Super late response but that is correct. I used it for the same thing that trick wanted to. So how did it work out?

     

    :thumbs: Well I just put the same B&M cooler and mounted it the same way!I got it hooked up to a switch cause I cant tell if its working or not.Just with the larger cooler my temp stay cool like befor I got my tt3000 stall.Where did you get your switch with the dual lights.Thats what I need to see if my fan comes on at 175. :chevy:

     

     

    Go to radio shack and buy a small LED. Hook one lead to your + wire on the fan motor. The other wire to ground. When the power is supplied to your fans (when they kick on) the LED will glow. The current needed to power a small LED is VERY low so don't think it will draw power. :cheers:

     

    Correct me if I am wrong here, but the light on his switch shows power to the SWITCH, the LED next to the switch shows that there is power to the FAN. The LED is the important one there, if it isn't on then the power to the fan isn't there even though the switch light is on. That is my take :dunno:

  4. I just need to get rid of this stuff so if there is something that you want make me an offer I don't want it in the garage anymore. It reminds me of the truck :cry:

     

     

    Gentleman per my previous postTruck Sold :(

     

    I sold the truck and have a few things that I will not be needing anymore. I have the following. All prices include shipping.

     

    B&M Tranny Cooler 70297 - Hi-Tek Cooling System 13-1/2"x9"x3-1/2" with 9-1/2" diameter fan. (Specs: Fan flows 500 cfm, draws 6 amps, weight 7lbs.) $195 Summit has them for $210. I just put this on has 300 miles on it at most.

     

    Pics for the tranny cooler can be seen here.

     

     

     

    I have a spare PCM that actually has a PCM Forless tune on it right now. The mods that I had with the tune where Intake and exhaust. So it is a pretty basic tune with the line pressure turned up. $150 shipped or better offer.

     

    Comp Chrome Moly Push Rods have about 6000 miles on them bought them from BenKey to use when I got my cam which unfortunately isn't happening. $75.

     

    I an engine cover set that I was going to paint and so some stuff with. Make an Offer.

     

    I have the stock intake as well and I have no idea what it is worth.  Again Make an Offer.

     

     

    I may have some other stuff but I am not sure will have to take a look and see what I have.

  5. :banghead: You hit the nail on the head. I have a 3" down pipe with Ubend delete coming, a DHP computer, 3.4 pulley, plugs, thermostat and shift kit.

     

    Not bad for $375 bucks. Similar mods on a few GTP's have gotten the guys 13.9s I would be happy with low 14's for $375 bucks. We shall see I want to get some base numbers so I know where I am going.

     

    I hear ya man... nothing will scare the money out of your wallet like losing a job, having a large truck payment, AND getting bad gas mileage. Good luck with the new SS, just try to avoid modding it... just you try!  :crackup: Those SC'ed 3800's can be loads of fun.

  6. Gentleman per my previous postTruck Sold :(

     

    All prices include shipping.

     

    B&M Tranny Cooler 70297 - Hi-Tek Cooling System 13-1/2"x9"x3-1/2" with 9-1/2" diameter fan. (Specs: Fan flows 500 cfm, draws 6 amps, weight 7lbs.) $155 SHIPPED Summit has them for $210. I just put this on has 300 miles on it at most.

     

    Pics for the tranny cooler can be seen here.

     

    I have the stock intake as well and I have no idea what it is worth. Again Make an Offer.

     

     

    I may have some other stuff but I am not sure will have to take a look and see what I have.

  7. :cry::cry::cry: I sold the truck the other day.

     

    With the gas prices and me having been out of work for the last 6 months and just starting to work again I could not justify the truck any longer. It wasn't that I couldn't afford it but with us needing to get caught up on a few things I just could not justify the payment and the gas. $85 to fill the pig up and it was gone in a week at best. So with the truck gone and the new car I am saving $200 on the payment and a very conservative $150 on gas. That is a good chunk of change every month. But I didn't fall to far from the tree. Here is the new ride:

     

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    Very clean car and pretty sporty for an Impala. 3800 Series II Supercharged 240HP. Has 18K miles and got it for a steel. It is the Indy edition so it just has the bright chrome rims, floor mats and some badging but it looks nice.

     

    It is not the truck but it does get good gas mileage and it goes pretty well. I have a few minor items for sale from the truck in the for sale section. I hope I am still welcome at the Zippy event if I can make it this year :D

  8. I havew this unit that I am looking to get rid of. Used it for about 3000 miles on my brothers SRT-4 which he recently sold. Make me an offer.

     

    http://www.modernperformance.com/all/aem_uego_wideband.shtml

     

    Except it doesn't have the changable faces. It just has a white face and silver bezel.

     

    Let me know can send you pics.

     

    Looking for a stand alone unit. If you got something you want to get rid of or just need the cash let me know. Thanks

  9. :D Correct...................... Kinda :P

     

     

    In stock form as it sits the fan was pulling in hot air from the radiator. So I reversed the polarity on the fan so that it was pulling in cool air from the outside of the truck. Easy fix. It was easier than trying to space the fan away from the condensor which would have made it more of a PITA.

     

    shouldn't the fan be behind the core pulling the air through the fins.  if left the way you have it, i would think the temp between your stock cooler and this one aren't going to be any different.  instead of pulling "cooler" ambient air through, you are pulling engine heat through the fins, also restricting ambient air from passing through your condensor and radiator.

  10. Thanks I like it too! It turned out really nice and the trans temps seem to be much better. Anyone have any idea what size AN fittings I am going to need to replace the stock lines?

     

    The reason to still run it through the radiator is to keep  the trans fluid temp from exceeding the coolant temp. Example if your are idling in traffic or the temp spiked for some other reason. I always run both coolers (rad and aux) but run the fluid thru the radiator first, then the aux to cool it down further.BTW your setup looks nice I like the cooler.  Later

     

    Dave

  11. In reply to the cooler being upside down or mounted that way I went with what the instructions told me to do. Because of the termostat they tell you not to mount the cooler with the thermostat pointing straight up. They say that it will not read properly that way. I could have mounted it sideways but the brackets where alrady made up. I will probably change this when I go with the AN fittings and braided lines.I thought about just mounting it up right but it would be nice to have the thermostat function properly.

     

    Do you guys think that the thermostat will funtion properly if I switched it around and the thermostat was located at the top? I would prefer to have the hoses at the bottom.

  12. Here are the pics of the install. Pretty easy not to hard really. Do not mind the hoses right now or the wiring this will all be cleaned up this weekend after I get my new lines. That is as soon as I find out the thread size on the stock lines at the tranny or the radiator. They all look to be 3/8 NPT. Or the could be 1/2 but that was what was at the B&M cooler and it looks much bigger than the stock fittings.

     

    Any who here as some pics as it sits now:

     

     

     

     

    Here it is with the stock cooler removed:

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    Just a little bit of a size difference :O

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    See size does matter :)

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    Top bracket in:

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    Bottom Bracket in:

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    Cooler Mounted in place:

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    Cooler mounted and piped in. Hoses will be replaced with braided or hard lines:

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    Switch is in. The cooler has a thermostat that turns on the fan at 170 degrees. I wired it up so that I could turn it on manually with the car on or off. The switch has an LED and the LED next to it is an indicator. When I have the switch on both the LEDS are on. When I have the switch on and the thermostat has activated the fan just the LED to the left comes on. This way I know that it's on and working. Kinda cool at least I think :lol:

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    Switch on fan working:

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  13. I order the B&M Cooler (part# 70297) and have started the install this evening. Just need to get some wiring in and it should be set to go. The question is I am going to go with some nice AN connectors and probably braided stainless steel lines to replace the run from the cooler to the trans. So this brings me to my fist question.

     

    Can I bypass the run to the radiator and just run from the tranny to the cooler? I am not really sure why it runs to the radiator then through the cooler and then back to the trans??

     

    The other question is what is the size of the threads at the tranny 1/2 NPT or 3/8 NPT?? I just need to know what size connectors to order it's 1/2 NPT at the cooler but the stock cooler the connectors looked to be more like 3/8.

     

    Thanks gents will have pictures of the install tomorrow it turned out pretty good.

     

    Laters

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