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dkkustoms

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Posts posted by dkkustoms

  1. A template isn't gonna work. Everyones cladding is different, hence the debate on whether to sell with studs attached or not.

    Epoxy would work great. Much better than wood screws :lol: Epoxy would be the way to go with ISS wing corners as well. If I recall, the "reproduction" ISS fiberglass wings come with these tacky angle brackets for the corner pieces that are just waiting to fall off.The 2500psi+ epoxy is like what holds your windshield in. It isn't going anywhere.

    MID12sSSS is correct. A template wont work.

     

    If the studs are left off, the end user can get the roll pan to fit how they like, drill from under the bed, through the sheet metal and mark the roll pan or use the hole in the sheet metal as a fixture to glue the stud on while the roll pan is in place. If the studs are pre-installed, the end user has to estimate where the hole should go. If the holes are off or you need to adjust the positioning of the roll pan, the hole has to be elongated or drilled bigger. I would want to mount them myself for ease of installation, but if enough people want them pre-installed, I will have the shop mount them. Like I said, either way makes no difference to me and the final cost wil be the same either way.

  2. I work with epoxy and fiberglass every day. I doubt the strength of an unreinforced steel to epoxy to glass bond. I would use epoxy but also glass in the bolt heads to the roll pan glass. (Using epoxy for the whole project).

     

    There you have it, advice from someone that works with this stuff daily. As I said before, with a 2500 psi tensile strength for the epoxy, Weldmount even states that the fiberglass is the weak link in the system. So adding some fiberglass/resin over the stud and base to spread the load like BSER did is the way to go as I suspected.

     

    If there is a major concern from those that would like the studs installed, I could have some of the roll pans get the studs installed and some without. That way you guys can have either one you prefer. It wouldn't cost any more or any less either way.

  3. I posted a link to the manufacturers website with the info on the glue in the first post. I would be willing to bet just about any epoxy the holds to steel and fiberglass would work. The manufacturer states that the weak link is the fiberglass when using their epoxy. I would also put a small fiberglass patch over it just to spread the load. In fact I believe that's what BSER did on his.

  4. Says the output is 2000 lumens? Am I wrong in not thinking that's very bright? I got a flashlight that is a million. Maybe it's a million candle power or whatever it's called.

    I've got a flashlight that puts out 870 lumens in "turbo mode". It's super bright but will only stay in that mode for 90 seconds. If you keep putting it in turbo mode it gets hot quick. It warns in the manual that putting it in turbo mode repeatedly will reduce the life of the battery and flashlight. I could not imagine a million lumen flashlight. I think you are right in thinking yours is rated in candlepower.

  5. Would the studs be the same studs wether pre-installed or not? If the fiberglass shop didn't install them, the body shop/installer would glass them in on the back side just the same, correct? I'm thinking of it as a stud with a large washer head to spread the load if they are like the ones BSER used. The main reason for my answer to the question as to install them or not is for ease of installation for the end user. Since trimming is involved and its all compound curves, every truck is a little different, wouldn't it be easier to work with the roll pan without the studs. That way the installer could get it trimmed and nice fitting. Then they could drill the holes from the underside of the bed and make a mark on the roll pan so everything would line up. Maybe I'm overthinking it.

    Studs would be the same if installed or shipped with the roll pan.

     

    Only difference would be the exact location which would be determined by the installer.

     

    This is what the studs will be. I'm fairly certain it's what BSER used.

    http://www.weldmountsystem.com/images/products-st125-1024.jpg

     

    Those are all very valid points. Kind of what I was thinking as well.

  6. I'm fairly certain that MIDsSS is correct that the reason for the studs is to secure the ends from flexing when molded into the side cladding. As for making them bolt onto the bumper brackets or requiring custom brackets, that probably won't happen but I will look into. I think the cost of the brackets and second fixture would push the costs beyond what most people could afford or even want to spend.

     

    Final cost will probably be around $600 shipped and insured.

  7. My stock bumper doesnt do it anymore, interested but would need info on the studs before any decisions. 99% stock under the hood and undrilled frame. Not willing to sacrifice unless for the right price. There was someone else thinking of doing them. Just curious on price and those studs. Please provide pics when you get the first pan. Thank you :chevy:

    Yeah, I've seen more than a few posts of people wanting or thinking about doing them. To my knowledge, nobody has. After all the responses I got from advertising the extra one I had, and seeing how frustrated people are getting trying to find one, I thought I would try and help the SS community out. Don't forget to vote on your preference on the studs. I'll probably do what the majority vote is, unless someone can overwhelmingly convince me one way or another with first hand experience.

  8. *UPDATE* Roll pans are done and ready to ship. See my ad in the for sale section

    http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/topic/87371-custom-fiberglass-silverado-ss-roll-pans/

     

     

    So I've seen more than a few posts on here of people looking for the BSER roll pans or any other options. I was fortunate to have an extra roll pan and thought I might have a solution seeing as more than a few people have got no response from BSER and the whole group buys never seem to work out. I am currently having a mold made from a BSER pan that has been modified and cleaned up a bit. There were a few areas on the BSER pan that could use a bit of work so I figured, why not fix them before a mold was made. I am not doing the work. I'm having a production fiberglass shop make the mold and pans. They were the ones that pointed out most of the issues and I basically explained to them what they are for, showed him my truck and said if there was anything he thought could be better, straighter, stronger, etc to go for it. Just don't change the general shape for the most part. Anyway, the mold and first roll pan should be done in another couple of weeks. The only thing I'm unsure of is the studs at the end of the roll pans. First let me say, I'm not an expert at installing fiberglass so I'm asking you guys, the final users. The BSER pans came with the studs installed which required drilling into the back corners of the bedsides. Would installing the roll pans be easier without the studs installed? I could include two studs with plates for the installation. Does everyone use the studs? Should it be an option to use the studs or not? Let me know what you guys think.

     

    When everything is all said and done, there will be no group buys required or minimum amount required. Initially I will prepay to have more than a few made and have stock on hand. After they sell, I will have more made. Lead times depend on how busy the shop gets. Lead time at the moment is approximate 4 weeks. I also own the mold and will continue to have them made as long as there is a demand. As demand decreases I will eventually stop keeping stock. But as I mentioned, I own the mold so if someone ever needed another one down the road, I can have one made.

     

     

    So I'm told the resin is called fire retardant vinyl ester epoxy. I had to look it up what it was and found some good info

     

    • Vinyl esters are more tolerant of stretching than polyesters. This makes them more able to absorb impact without damage. They are also less likely to show stress cracking.
    • Vinyl ester has fewer open sites in its molecular chain. This makes it much more resistant to water penetration ('hydrolysis') which can cause osmotic blistering.
    • Vinyl esters shrink less on curing, which means that 'pre-release' of a laminate from a mold is less significant.
    • The cross bonding of vinyl esters is superior to that of polyesters. This means that vinyl esters bond to core materials much more effectively than polyesters and delamination is less of an issue.
    • Vinyl esters are less sensitive to ambient conditions (temperature and humidity) than are polyesters.
    • Vinyl esters are more expensive than polyesters though careful calculations are required to assess the cost impact for a significant build project such as a luxury yacht. This is because the relative strengths need to be factored in - you can use less vinyl ester to achieve a given strength.

    As for the studs being pre-attached or not, it looks like I will include them but not attach them. That way the end user has the option if they would like.

     

    This is what will be included.

    products-st125-1420.jpg

     

    They can be glued in place using the proprietary weldmount AT-1030 Acrylic adhesive

    or any sutible two-part epoxy, fiberglassed in, or both

     

    http://www.weldmountsystem.com/products-adhesives.php

     

    http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63683&familyName=Weld+Mount+AT-1030+Adhesive

     

    Finished product

    IMG_4583.jpg

     

    IMG_4585.jpg

     

     

    The white thing is called the model. It is a BSER pan cleaned up and used to make the mold.

    IMG_4584.jpg

     

    IMG_4581.jpg

     

     

    Parts coming out of the mold and getting cleaned up. I ordered 10 already. Should be done by the end of this week or early next week.

    IMG_4588.jpg

     

    IMG_4589.jpg

     

     

    Mold is done and roll pans are being made at the moment. Price will be $600 shipped. The first 10 will get a $50 discount, so $550 shipped. Anyone interested feel free to drop me a pm on here or email [email protected].

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