VHO_Tek
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Posts posted by VHO_Tek
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I replaced the part twice. This last time I bought the 100 part from napa and so far no problems the 15 dollar part only lasted me a year. The reason for the fail is due to dust/dirt and over filling. I would go buy the new part and be done with it.
So I can buy the $15 six times before I've spent $100. I try not to "top it off" and over fill, and I doubt if I have the truck in 6 years.
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Tighten your gas cap, clear the code and see if it comes back........if it does, there is a TSB that covers the fix.......
Yep, but the TSB has you buy $150 in parts plus a run down to the parts store to buy 5-6 foot of rubber hose to fix a flaw that should have never been there in the first place. I went to Rock Auto, bought #2142149 for $15 and used 2 foot of hose to replace the part. Yes I know it doesn't move the vent, but I managed 5 years and 75000 miles on the original so who cares.
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OK, I'm tired of my drilled/sloted rotors cracking so its time for a change. I've been thinking about going with the EBC's but I'm not sure which ones I should get. According to EBC because I haul my 21 foot bass boat I would be better off getting the Sport Rotors for better stopping power but I've heard that they make quite a bit of noise. Just how loud do they get? Would I do OK with the USR's?
Thanks
Man this whole "noise" thing with the EBC sports is insane. Look, if you have stock exhaust, windows down, radio off, on a fresh paved "baby butt smooth" road, in a quiet neighborhood and apply the brakes below 35 with your head out the window then you will hear the swish sound. So is it annoying? Well, it might be to you if you brake like I just mentioned all the time. HOWEVER, it does not bother me because those stars never align all at once on a daily basis. Obtuse? Maybe but give the Sports a try they are GREAT!!
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I have 120k on my SS and i have serviced the front and rear diffs and every thing besides the transmission and transfer case. I Have asked around about what i should do. ALL i get is mixed reviews. Just looking for some input. I have heard horror stories and good stories. Any input would be appreciated.
What does the fluid look and smell like? If it is already black and smells burnt then leave well enough alone. If the fluid has some color and does not smell burnt then flush away. I've seen trannys come in with burnt fluid that the customer just HAD to have flushed and we had to push the car off the lift because the tranny would no longer pull the vehicle off it. LOL Unless your vehicle has been used to tow allot in high heat or mountains then the fluid should be ok to flush. The manual says 100k mile service on the trans unless severe duty, and I'm a firm believer in that.
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good point I forgot to mention that. Those dimples are noisy!A faint "whirr" sound yes.........noisy............not really, and even the whirr sound goes away after a few thousand miles. Besides that dimples won't crack like the drilled ones do.
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Going to start ordering parts soon for front end rebuild and have question regarding fitment. Looking at outer tie rod ends I see 2wd and 4wd, being the VHO is torsion bar do we use the 4wd tie rod ends?
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I was looking at the same pads. I'm gonna keep my stock rotors. What do you guys think?
Front
Rear
I usually go Wagner, but on a whim I put the Cmax pads on my VHO with the EBC rotors last brake service. With about 25k+ miles I will report they are doing fine with minimal dust. When I say minimal I mean I can go three weeks without washing the truck and not have black front wheels. Couldn't say that about the Wagners I put on the Envoy before I sold it, those things were dusty as grandmas attic. I will most likely get about 50k out of these pads at the rate they are wearing with normal stop and go commuting. I can't speak for the cheaper pads but the CMax's seem to be just as good as any I've used.
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I feel your pain . I am running the same pads and mine squeek (sp) like crazy when coming to a stop. And I followed the break in instruction as best as one could do on a street driven vehicle.
I have at least 20K miles on my EBC sport rotors and AZ C-Max pads. The pads were seated per instructions, and was anal to the point of using the parking brake to hold it at stop lights.till they were broke in. Early on I did hear a whirring or light whooshing sound but have either got used to it or it went away. The rotors are loads better than Taiwan eBay crap don't kid yourself. I have no qualms about using them again or recommending to anyone.
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For a simple 2" shackle drop in the rear remove the bracket that connects the bump stop to the frame and screw the stop directly to the frame. Any lower do the same by removing the bracket, cut off one nub at a time until it clears the axle by a decent amount and drill 5-6 holes in the stop to soften it up. I'd also suggest removing your front bump stops (they easily pull out of the holders) cut off one nub on each and drill holes in those as well. Should help out quite a bit!
Ok I finally put 2" shackles on the rear last weekend, looks good but need to crank the keys down about 3/4" in front for a slight rake. I've read numerous folks say pop out the front bump stops to trim and its "easy" but how easy are they to get back in the cups?
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Will these fit the 2wd SSS and VHO's with the 14bolt rear?
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Bilsteins FTW!! I just installed them on my Envoy after much debate and boy did I make the right choice. I will be changing out the stockers on the VHO soon with them as the stock shocks are getting stiff.
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I put some 3GD EBC Sport on about 25k ago, seem to be holding up well. These are the dimpled/slotted rotors from EBC and look about as good now as when I installed them.
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Banks Exhaust #48332 will fit with minor tweaking of the mounting. That part number was for the 1500HD which except for the hangers was more or less the same exhaust as ours.
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im just wondering if anyone knows it the stock brake pads and rotors from my 03 ss will fit my 07 tahoe
No
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Product improvement program from GM for HVAC issue.
This problem is common on all the NBS trucks 03-07 as well as a few cars from same time period, replaced these components allot while I was still a service adviser. Gotta wonder when the rest of us will receive this same letter.
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Thats good to know! But this morning I erased the codes again because I cant stand having that light on in the dash it drives me crazy and the light hasnt come back on all day? Im not sure why because I erased it twice yesterday and it came right back after about 30min of driving. But I did the same driving today that I do everyday and the light didnt come back on.
I know this is an older post but just fixed this issue today, but I did not spend the $$$ for the "kit" at the dealer. My truck is 6 years old has 80k on it and this just acted up, if the old part last that long then why not just replace it, so I did. GM part# 2142149 is a direct replacement that won't need 6 foot of heater hose and cost $150 plus. GM part# 2142149 cost me less than $20, add the 1.5 foot of 5/8" hose and two clamps to replace the hard plastic pipe going to the old solenoid and it was still a bargain.
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Just my .02 look at Dynomax "X" Flow. No drone and sounds and out performs the FlowCrapper. I had the 50 series on my ss and yes it sounded good, but then it rusted out fell apart after 4 years. Switched over the the X flow and wow. My buddy had Dual 40 series flow masters and I was louder then him.
I also run stock manifolds and cats.. sounds good..
Word. Friends don't let friends run Flowcrappers.
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I probably have 7k on my EBC rotors, seem like they are holding up well, center part not rusting and stopping is great with the ceramic pads.
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I have about 3 weeks on Pirelli Scorpion STR's, got 56k out of two of the stock Eagle LS1's, busted a belt in one at about 50k. The two that had 56k on them might have gone 2-3k more but these summer thunder storms were making driving a little more "interesting" than safe. FWIW so far the Pirellis seem to do fine in heavy rain, are quiet and have great dry traction.
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Hmmm mine sometimes jumps ahead when I start it! I think it's just telling me it's ready idk
Cold start surge in park is "normal" there was a TSB on that issue maybe 2 years ago, nothing to worry about but it does scare the crap out of you the first time it does it.
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Have a set of 243 heads less than 12k miles with yellow "LS6" springs, $450 plus shipping OBO. Will consider delivery if near St. Louis area. Going to rethink power upgrade path and these heads won't be needed.
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I had warped rotors in front and just a couple weeks ago changed over to EBC slotted and dimpled "sport" rotors and ceramic pads. Only drove back and forth to work so far but feel is good, stops great with no vibration or sound. No dust to report which I hate and may be a tad better feel. Had 50k miles on truck and stock pads still had better than half left, just added new pads with the new rotors. For the money they seem to be a good choice.
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After putting up with severe brake vibration figured it was time for rotors/pads. Went to put on the EBC rotors yesterday and found what might have caused the issue. I found the rotor retaining screw missing on the driver side, which is where the vibration was coming from. Anyone know off hand what size that screw is, local autoparts store don't have any so its off to the hardware store. Help quick!!!
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Rolled the dice, going with Belltech 2508 spindles and 6400 shackles. Got Edlebrock IAS 33012 and 34010 on order to round them out. Will have them next week some time then installed at my shop.
Anyone Get Tires Latley?
in Rims and Rubber
Posted
Having sold tires for two different dealers I can say you really can't compare treadware ratings across different brands. The treadware rating is better used when comparing tires from the same manufacture. As for a long wearing tire I would also recommend the Bridgestone Dueler, I grabbed some take offs that had 65k miles on them for emergency use, used two for another 5k miles before I bought my Pirellis. The Pirelli Scorpians I have though have not held up well, maybe get 40k out of the before its time to replace. I will go with the Prada Spec X next time.