Maniac
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Posts posted by Maniac
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Damn thats a good price I hope to get $24,000 for mine and I have a pretty much stock car but with 20,000 miles.
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$900 shipped to the continential US or best offer will take Paypal.
Used LS6 intake plumbed with a Nitrous Express EFI Pro Pirahana System with a 15 pound bottle. The intake has been used for the last ~20,000 miles but the nitrous portion was never finished because I never purchased a stand alone fuel system or finished the wiring. I am selling because Im taking the car closer to stock and removing the nitrous from it. This same setup has put a few LSx motors in the mid 9s on a solid built motor with a 300 hp shot. Comes with LS6 intake plumbed with direct port, wiring, jets for 200 to 500 hp, and nitrous hose and bottle bracket(not pictured). Not interested in trades at this time.
Also changing jets on a Fbody is very hard with the hardlines it has. You have to remove the manifold to do jet changes for the entire manifold. The back ones are just impossible to get on the car. Maybe if they were replaced with flexible stainless lines it could be done on the car but I never tried.
For C5, GTO, or a truck these should be easy to change on the car.
The pictures are a bit dirty since the car has been in storage for the last 9 months.
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Gm parts direct charges crazy shipping and handling charges.
Why does it have to be a OEM pump? You can find a good Walbro 255 for ~$150. Not a direct bolt it but easy to get it to work for a qualified installer.
thats a good question. my concern there is having to remove the basket, therefore not being able to ever drop below a 1/4 tank of gas due to fuel pick up without the bucket. sloshing fuel and such. i know its not a big deal, but my wife drives the truck alot and i can just see that causing huge problems.
You shouldnt need to remove the ballast if you replace it with a single walbro pump. It fits right into the stock fuel pump/sending unit assembly you just need to do some wiring changes.
It sounds like your thinking of a external pump not a internal unit. The Walbro 255 will fit without a problem.
will the walbro pump give me any better performance over the stock pump? what kind of wiring changes are we talking about here?
You wont see any direct performance increase from it but it will allow you to run bigger injectors for a stroker, FI setup, or dry nitrous kit. Or run larger shots on N20 on a wet kit.
I never wired up one of the pumps myself but the shop I used to work at we did it all the time. Or used a Racetronix wiring harness. Ill see if I can find out exactly what needs to be changed. Mostly its splicing of wires since its not a direct bolt in connector.
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Gm parts direct charges crazy shipping and handling charges.
Why does it have to be a OEM pump? You can find a good Walbro 255 for ~$150. Not a direct bolt it but easy to get it to work for a qualified installer.
thats a good question. my concern there is having to remove the basket, therefore not being able to ever drop below a 1/4 tank of gas due to fuel pick up without the bucket. sloshing fuel and such. i know its not a big deal, but my wife drives the truck alot and i can just see that causing huge problems.
You shouldnt need to remove the ballast if you replace it with a single walbro pump. It fits right into the stock fuel pump/sending unit assembly you just need to do some wiring changes.
It sounds like your thinking of a external pump not a internal unit. The Walbro 255 will fit without a problem.
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Gm parts direct charges crazy shipping and handling charges.
Why does it have to be a OEM pump? You can find a good Walbro 255 for ~$150. Not a direct bolt it but easy to get it to work for a qualified installer.
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Sale pending.
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how much would it be all together with shipping it to 13642
The entire kit shipped would be $350.
This kit includes all the wiring, relays, lines for nitrous, solenoid, bottle, WOT switch, nitrous jets, and the spray bar.
You can add a purge and a bottle heater but I would not install it without a window switch. A window switch is not included.
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I have a brand new Nitrous Outlet NX Kit for GTOs and Trucks for a conical filter. $350 shipped to the continental US normally these kits are $400 plus shipping I believe. Will take Paypal but if you use a credit card you need to add a 3% processing fee. Comes with jets good for 35, 50, 100, and 150 hp. Includes 10 pound bottle.
Does not include air filter.
Here is a picture of the spray bar installed.
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New price $350 shipped.
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Still for sale. Just to make it clear this kit DOES NOT INCLUDE THE AIR FILTER.
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never said there waqs something wrong with them...its just the nitrous goes into the cylinders unevenly. ive just read wet is better.....but dry is cheaper and easier.
Wet kits inject the nitrous unevenly as well its either injected before or just after the throttle body. The only way to ensure a even amount of nitrous to each cylinder is a direct port setup. But for smaller amounts like 200 hp and under its not as big of a issue.
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Sweet let us know when you have some dyno or track results Kevin.
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nothng much its a whole kit...however i dont recommend a dry kit.
There is nothing wrong with dry kits they work perfectly fine if used correctly. You can safely run a 100 shot on stock injectors and stock pump. Dry kits are usually less expensive, easier to hide, and easier to install. With an upgraded pump and injectors you could run even more out of this kit.
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What else would I need to run this kit?
I would definitely get a window switch.
Other optional stuff you could get would be a purge and a bottle heater.
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I have a brand new Nitrous Outlet NX Kit for GTOs and Trucks for a conical filter. $350 shipped to the continental US normally these kits are $400 plus shipping I believe. Will take Paypal but if you use a credit card you need to add a 3% processing fee. Comes with jets good for 35, 50, 100, and 150 hp. Includes 10 pound bottle.
Does not include air filter.
Here is a picture of the spray bar installed.
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I went with the pace setters and magnaflow cats. Teh headers were like $420 shipped? The cats were $120 for both from Summit Racing (13" long with 3" inlet/outlet). I had a shop custom install the headers, weld some piping in, and strategically place the cats and relocate the O2 sensors for about $300. They sound awesome and I have no leaks, issues. So figure you go with the dynatechs at $1300-1400 shipped depending on where you get them, then have them coated (pace setters are coated already) for another $200+, you're out $1500+. Pay some one to put them on and you are at another $200 on average. My setup was about $840 altogether.
Coating is mearly to fight rust. The underhood temperatures on bolt on cars arent nearly effected that much by the coating. Stainless steel headers work just as fine and will never rust. Ceramic coated headers will rust over time even if they never see salt or rain.
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Ok our local fbody club www.fbodyowners.com is having a meet this Sunday the 26th at noon at the Downers Grove, IL Hooters. We usually shoot the shit for awhile in the parking lot before eating. Just a group of friends hanging out and checking out some rides nothing really offical. Any kind of car besides rice rockets are really welcome, so bring your trucks, mustangs, or older muscle cars if your interested.
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The biggest problem isnt the weight of the vehicle but the intake manifold. The truck manifolds start to run out of gas above 6000 rpms. The MS4 is probably going to be a big lift and big duration cam so its going to make its power higher up in the RPM range. You would need to switch over to LS6 or FAST manifold to see the gains that that cam is inteaded for.
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Powerdyne systems are junk. They are the most inefficient blowers I have ever seen. You would be better with just headers. The IATs those things pump out are well over 240 degrees I have seen in person. You would be wasting $2000. I have never met one person who even close to happy with the performance of their Powerdyne system. One of the cars we worked at our shop on a LT1 fbody with heads and cam made 350 rwhp with the 6 psi powerdyne. When the blower was removed it made 365 rwhp. The reason was the IATs were over 240 degrees.
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When you got that response did it say who it was from? I have ordered from Paul at Thunder Racing probably 20+ times and never once had a problem. If it was from one of his sales people I would shoot an email to Paul letting him know that was the response you got. Knowing Paul he wouldnt stand for poor customer service he is probably one of the best parts retailers in the country. He isnt always the cheapest but he almost always had in stock what I needed and that was more important than price to me.
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I couldnt find that Radix GP you were referring to.
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I just read a article about lower engine temps. It said lower engie temps can have a affect on engine life, engine oils are desinged to run hot about 180* to burn the moisture out of the engine after shutdown and in cool climates. Sounded logical But don't know if anybody ever had that prolbem. I can't remember were that article was. I think it was search on 160* thermostats.
Even with a 160 degree thermostat your engine temps are going to float around 180. Both my 98 Camaro and my 03 Silverado have 160 degree thermostats and float between 175 and 185 degrees.
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Wheel 2 Wheel outside Detroit has a AWD dyno.
THIS CANT BE RIGHT! LOW HP!
in Forced Induction and Nitrous
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Got a copy of the dyno sheet? Maybe its really fat? Also ask for a copy of the logged runs to see if its gettin knock retard and how much total timing it has at WOT.