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Blk06Limited

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Posts posted by Blk06Limited

  1. Man.. that really sucks, sorry to hear it. Not a good way to start the weekend. Hope it's found to be in the same shape you left it. I just increased my insurance last week to cover aftermarket stuff I've added. Reading this makes me glad I did.

  2. did you check to make sure ya shock isn't bad? I think that's my problem because my driver side is the only one rubbin. It rubbed so much that the fender lip tore up my brand new 420s tire. Just puttin that out there haha

     

    The thought has definately crossed my mind, that's why I'm planning on buying shocks today (or LTs and ORY lol) Only thing is - If the shock was bad, it would cause that corner to be lower at static height. However, in my case, that corner is still 1/4" higher than the passanger side. While at a stand still, if I put it in full lock, I can get out and see the corner of the tire touching the inner fender. If the driver side was lower, which it's not, than it would make more sense. My 420s in that corner is also getting eaten up a bit because of this, and the plastic part of the inner fender liner is completely shredded. I'm going to try to cut the plastic part off in that area, see if it still rubs against the metal.

  3. it really isnt that difficult to remove. . . . .you need to release the pin in the middle of the anchor, then lower the tire with the wrench. if its being stubborn just kick it and it will fall. sometimes the tire mods itself to the frame oiled coating

     

    Man, I tell ya, I sat there for over an hour one day trying to get it. Tried it the way it said to, with the wheel chock, tryied a big hydro jack right under the center pin assembly area, kicked the shit out of it, beat it with a 10lb sledge from various angels, you name it. Damn thing would NOT crank down!

     

    let me guess, can't seem to get the rod inserted in there right? alot of the time the plastic guide will pull away from where its supposed to be... if you lay under the truck and fit your hand through the rim you can feel the guide, push it back over the insert so the rod slides into it. I've fought with it before aswell.

     

    if thats not the issue :crazy::dunno:

     

    Yeah thats one thing, I couldn't be 100% sure the wrench was making it into the receptor. I know there was a recall on that assembly up until '05, and of course I'm an '06. I'll give it a shot as you described, thanks :cheers:

  4. truck looks good. i take it those are 305/45/22 nitto tires right

     

    Appreciate it. Yes, They are the 420S 305/45/22s. Had to crank the front up 1/2" - 3/4" to get them to quit rubbing the inner fenerwell. That's why the front looks higher than the rear, because it is lol

    Even so, the front driver side still rubs at full left rock. If, at a stop, I turn it full lock - I can see the tire resting on the inner fender. The passenger side is 1/4" lower, and it doesn't rub. That pretty much has me baffled - thinking it may be alignment issue. Worst case I'm going to have to raise the front a little more, and install a 1" lift shackle in the rear to level it out. I really don't want to go to a smaller tire, especially once the heads and cam are in.

  5. looks good, I can only imagine how hard those would be to clean!

     

    just curious, ever think about a roll pan? truck would look tits with one.

    :thumbs:

     

    Thanks =)

     

    Yeah, I need to get a rollpan. It's pretty much next on my list so far as appearance goes, followed by a GemTop GT Classic. I'll be picking up a Custom Classic Fabbed pan within the next couple months. I've been trying to get the spare off, but it won't come down. Had an appointment last Saturday to get it taken care of under warantee but slept in and missed it, and I just hit 36k :( So priority right now is getting that damn spare tire off.

  6. Actaully I've had these wheels, 22" KMC Clydes, for a couple months. Just haven't had time to take pictures. Cleaned the truck up good yesterday, and polished the wheels this morning. Took about 2 hours, these things are a bitch with all the spokes and small recessed areas. Hopefully I'm going to have the chance to wax the truck in the morning before it starts raining. Ordering either a set of Performer IAS shocks, or Pacesetter LTs and ORY tomorrow as well. I really want the damn headers, but really need shocks. Dammit. Anyway, here's the pics:

     

    DSCF0436Large.jpg

     

    DSCF0439Large.jpg

     

    DSCF0440Large.jpg

  7. mine are stock length, i've hit some pretty bug bumps & have yet to even come close to bottoming out.

     

    I wouldn't be worried about bottoming out really. Just seems like you'd be better off with the shorter stroke shock with the lowered rear. I'd think it would ride even better based on a stock height shock being compressed 4" more than normal at static with a 4" drop. I think I'd be more worried about bottoming out in my case, going with the 4" drop shock. In my head at least, I'll have more shock stroke travel which increases the likelyhood of the axel bouncing off the bump stop. Worse case I'll cut my Belltech bumpstops down or remove them completely. All I know, is I can't wait to get them on.

  8. This was a rather old post, but since It's been brought back I'll chime in!

     

    I have these on my 3/4 dropped SS & I like them. The ride is very nice out on the highway & depending on how bad our roads are intown does pretty good too.

     

    Didn't you say, maybe in another forum, that you got the ones made for stock height SS? Or did you actually get the ones made for 2" front 4" rear drop?

  9. I know that when i install my roll pan and remove the stock hitch it'll raise the rear. I have Belltech leaf springs and I was wondering if it would be possible to add 1" or 2" drop shackles. Since there was no change in my pinion angle by just replacing the leaf springs, wouldn't it just be like adding drop shackles to a stock truck? The only problem i can really think of is bottoming out, but that shouldn't even be a problem either because I'm not really dropping the truck any more than it already is; I'm practically just trying to compensate for the raise in height due to weight loss. Any suggestions or opinions?

     

    You can get away with a 4" rear drop, but 5" or more on an NBS requires a notch.

     

    I'm running 3" Belltech leafs (Really 4") and no hitch, and do not bottom out at all in the rear. On OEM shocks no less.

  10. Did you have to use that kit that raises the carrier bearing ? Planning on going with the same setup on my 06 2wdSS,,just wandering if you have to do it with the leafs? I had to do it on my old extended cab, I put a 2/4 drop with hangers & shackels and the carrier bearing had to be raised.

     

    My '06 2WD has a 1-Piece aluminum drive shaft, and so should your's. In this case, you do not have a carrier bearing and don't need the carrier kit as a result. Enjoy that :cheers:

  11. i'm running edelbrock shocks

     

    Finally, someone with the same drop as me with IAS shocks. What part numbers did you end up using? Obviously you used the 1500 3" Drop shocks for the rear. I was having trouble deciding which to use up front though since shock travel shouldnt be any different from stock using drop spindels.

  12. Uh yeah well theres a bunch of us on here that can prove that wrong. Plus NO vibration what so ever! but whatever... make sure ya post up the pix!

     

     

    Exactly. Belltech has ALWAYS said they won't work. Complete crap. I have them on mine as well and they fit and work perfectly. Pinion angle is fine, no vibration, etc.

  13. Credit for these pics goes to Colby from FSC, he took them for me when I asked the same question last year...

     

    That being said. You shouldn't have bought ALL of the brackets. Really, all you need are these:

     

    15124949 - Outer Brackets

    15182636 - Lower bracket

    15182637 - Lower bracket

     

    Outer Brackets to pull up the center at the duct mounts, and the Lowers (2 piece bracket for each side) for fender well rigidness. The lowers are the complicated ones, and the only ones I have / needed pics for. The red line shows how the bracket runs within the cover. It'll make sense when everything is apart.

     

    bumperpics004.jpg

     

     

    bumperpics005.jpg

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