FLT

Can you back that up with some facts? I've never heard of anyone that's been through 5 of my builds? Let's start with your name so I can look you up in my customer data base?

The O.D. bore size is all the same, I think he ment to say boost valve diameter which most range from .470 - .500 that we use. The issue that you guys are talking about is the length of the boost valve sleeve that changed in late 05 to present. The sleeve is now shorter in the later model 60/65/70E transmissions which transgo has recently changed from what I here. We have been machining the transgo and sonnax boost valve sleeves for our customers that ordered shift kits until transgo and sonnax get caught up with the new pump design. Chuck

If anyone ever drops their pan and see's this kind of mess you can throw the converter in the garbage, I don't care who's converter it is. After that you better replace the radiator trans cooler and aux. cooler if your using one. Then be sure to flush or better yet replace all the cooler lines because you won't get all the metal out. Obvisouly the trans needs to be completely disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt, that's a no brainer. Hopefully this will teach some of the experts out there not to assume it's the trans that failed automatically and that torque converters can and do fail. Chuck/FLT

What, You don't like my business ethic's because I believe that it was wrong what you were doing. Your link did work just like it does on this site, so don't tell me that. If you ever have you own business down the road and your paying good money to sponsor a few forums you'll understand where I'm coming from. I never once thought or mentioned that you were trying to steal my business either. If I did, please show me that post. You answering a question wasn't a issue either. You seem to forget that guy asked for another opinion and I gave him mine, What's wrong with that. It appeared that you were offended by that for some reason by your response, Which I didn't feel like writing a book to respond at the time. Then the next thing I hear your calling me a ****, So here we are. I will leave it at this, You have your side of the story and I have mine. This will be my last post about this topic because I'm way to busy for this nonsense. Best of luck to you.

Your opinion of my kit had nothing to do with the issue. My kits have worked well in many trucks and your opinion of my work or my parts meant nothing to me before the issue and nothing after. Someone asked a question about them and even though I tried to avoid answering the question(s) I ended up answering so as to not be a dick to the guy. My answering of his questions got you to chime in and try to sell him your kit which as a supporting vendor over there is fine. You didn't seem to have a reply to my comments about your recomendation though even though they weren't in any way shooting you down. I've in the past sent you many customers and recomended you for transmissions, parts, etc. I never told them to mention my name or anything like that to try to get on anyone's good side. From simply answering some guys question over on the board that it was asked you got all upset about it and went to the administrators. You forced them to remove my sig and got them to give me a warning about trying to sell my parts on that site. If you review my over 1000 posts on that site you will not find me trying to sell on there because I understand that it just isn't right for the people that pay to advertise on the site. Even with that being as it was, you still found the need to complain quite heavily to the administrators over there because I simply answered questions. Questions that if you look I even tried to avoid. I left that post there quite a while before putting anything in there. After a few pm's from a couple people asking me to respond I finally did. You could have just left at that. The post would have been answered and went away into history like all the rest. Sounds like you're the internet tough guy to me. I wouldn't consider calling you an **** name calling. It's simply an identification for you after how childish you were over that incident. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you understand that trying to sell parts isn't right especially being a administrator yourself on this board, then why would you try to put links to your website in your sig? You of all people should know better. It's not just you that has been warned about advertising a part time business either, just so you know. There seems to be plenty of you guys that try to back door the system of being a paying sponsor on certain forums which pisses business owners like myself off that run a full time business and pay to advertise on them. If you want to put your links or whatever in your sig then pay to be a supporting vendor like the rest of us do. I could care less what you do say or what you sell personally, it's a matter of right and wrong. So you want to call that childish, well that's your opinion. My product and reputation speaks for itself if you havn't noticed, so I could care less what you want to tell your customers about me personally. Have a nice day!!

Hey Lippy, Wow, Big words from a keyboard tuff guy. It looks like my opinion of your Lippy shift kit got you upset for some reason, Imagine That!! Oh, your name calling, is that the best you come up with? Grow up!!! Chuck

The 4L60E has a standard output shaft and can break under hard shifts. The 4L65E output shaft is hardend and can also break from excessivly harsh shifts, but I only know of one ever breaking and it was because of the line pressure and shift timings he was using with the Zippy kit. From what I've found the weekest parts of the 65E in the case of the SSS trucks is the input drum (cracks right where the input shaft is pressed in), the pump (has been known to internally explode and fail), and the forward sprag (this is something that will break under a hard launch if you pre-load the trans too hard). As for the weight difference, if I recall from shipping the 80/85E is 50-75lbs heavier depending on torque converter choice. There is another advantage to the 80E that will be of a big help and that is the taller first gear. The guys running big power are running into traction problems and making the first gear taller will likely help the truck launch softer for the first 10 feet or so allowing it to get hooked and the suspension to transfer weight. The biggest drawback of the 80/85E is that it has a 4-7% higher parasitic drag meaning that you will lose some of your power to the tires when swapping to the bigger trans. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im sure this will sound stupid, but if I go with a 4L80 will the input drum, forward sprag etc. be stronger or are they using the same ones from the 4L65? FLT has a 2.75 first gear set for there 4L80.Finishlinetrans 2.75 seems really tall, but I do plan on making a ton of torque so maybe I could take advantage of it. Would FLT's 300m input shaft be worth upgrading to as well? Would that shaft work with this kit? So 4-7% higher parastic drag with the 4L80, what kind of % increase would that equate to (an estimate) as far as power loss % to the wheels compared to a 4L65? Thanks again zip, you the man. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The 80E uses all together different parts from the 65E. You won't have to worry about those parts breaking. I would recomend just using the stock 2.48 gear that the 80E comes with as this will help with traction on the launch. Once you get into the 600hp and higher range the AWD that everyone loves actually begins to make it harder to hook than a 2wd with Cal Trac's and slicks. I am not familier with the input shaft from FLT and after my last encounter with Chuck I could care less if I ever saw another one of his products again. I'll never recomend anyone ever go see that **** for parts or a trans... the 4-7% higher parasitic drag is compared to the 65E. As an example if you had a 600RWHP truck with a 65E, you'd lose an estimated 24-42RWHP when going to the 80E. The upside to this is that with the 80E you can add parts to gain that power back and have less worry about breakage. For example if you were running a 150 shot of nitrous with your 65E, you could run a 250 or 300 shot of nitrous with a well built 80E and not have much worry about breakage. You pretty much can easily get back the amount of power loss from going to the 80E. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The 4L60E has a standard output shaft and can break under hard shifts. The 4L65E output shaft is hardend and can also break from excessivly harsh shifts, but I only know of one ever breaking and it was because of the line pressure and shift timings he was using with the Zippy kit. From what I've found the weekest parts of the 65E in the case of the SSS trucks is the input drum (cracks right where the input shaft is pressed in), the pump (has been known to internally explode and fail), and the forward sprag (this is something that will break under a hard launch if you pre-load the trans too hard). As for the weight difference, if I recall from shipping the 80/85E is 50-75lbs heavier depending on torque converter choice. There is another advantage to the 80E that will be of a big help and that is the taller first gear. The guys running big power are running into traction problems and making the first gear taller will likely help the truck launch softer for the first 10 feet or so allowing it to get hooked and the suspension to transfer weight. The biggest drawback of the 80/85E is that it has a 4-7% higher parasitic drag meaning that you will lose some of your power to the tires when swapping to the bigger trans. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Im sure this will sound stupid, but if I go with a 4L80 will the input drum, forward sprag etc. be stronger or are they using the same ones from the 4L65? FLT has a 2.75 first gear set for there 4L80.Finishlinetrans 2.75 seems really tall, but I do plan on making a ton of torque so maybe I could take advantage of it. Would FLT's 300m input shaft be worth upgrading to as well? Would that shaft work with this kit? So 4-7% higher parastic drag with the 4L80, what kind of % increase would that equate to (an estimate) as far as power loss % to the wheels compared to a 4L65? Thanks again zip, you the man. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The 80E uses all together different parts from the 65E. You won't have to worry about those parts breaking. I would recomend just using the stock 2.48 gear that the 80E comes with as this will help with traction on the launch. Once you get into the 600hp and higher range the AWD that everyone loves actually begins to make it harder to hook than a 2wd with Cal Trac's and slicks. I am not familier with the input shaft from FLT and after my last encounter with Chuck I could care less if I ever saw another one of his products again. I'll never recomend anyone ever go see that **** for parts or a trans... the 4-7% higher parasitic drag is compared to the 65E. As an example if you had a 600RWHP truck with a 65E, you'd lose an estimated 24-42RWHP when going to the 80E. The upside to this is that with the 80E you can add parts to gain that power back and have less worry about breakage. For example if you were running a 150 shot of nitrous with your 65E, you could run a 250 or 300 shot of nitrous with a well built 80E and not have much worry about breakage. You pretty much can easily get back the amount of power loss from going to the 80E. <{POST_SNAPBACK}>