Bluewheelz

!!! SOLD!!!

Sorry, not interested in trading. Just want to sell them. I will consider cash offers.

Cool idea! These look awesome! Payment sent for 2.

Selling my OEM SS Chrome wheels with tires. Two really good tires, two not quite to the wear bars. Have full set of 4 center caps (ones on left) with the corvette racing flags, set of 3 original center caps (1 fell off a while back) $900. Come and get 'em. 469-569-8633

PM sent

Payment sent via PayPal today. Contact us if you don't recieve it. Thanks for the deal. We will upload some photos when it's installed. --=Todd=--

Take $3500? Thats all I can scrape together right now.

This is the kit for 2003 to 2006? Any pics?

The factory alarm can be bypassed in seconds with a screwdriver. I'm not going to elaborate more on the issue, but they are pretty much worthless. A good alarm (aftermarket) is 10% Product quality, 90% installation quality. Things to look for in a good aftermarket alarm: All connections should be made with solder and heat shrink tubing. The alarm brain should not be accessible from under the dash. A good location for Silverados is behind the guage cluster. There is a small pocket that the brain can be installed in. Install a hood restriant to keep the theif out from under the hood. Hide all valet / programming switches - these bypass the alarm if you have the ignition key on. If they are easy to find (right under the dash on the driver side) a theif can get your truck with little work. Starter disable / Ignition kill - necessary to keep your truck from being started. Distinctive siren sound - the standard 6 tone job is like hearing your wife talk......after a while, you quit paying attention. Most 6 tone units can be programmed to only play one or more of the tones.. LED placement in a spot visible from all sides of the truck - not on your dummy panel next to the A/C controls. The whole idea is to deter them up front, or make it so difficult that they quickly give up and go to one without an alarm. Theives are lazy and will take the easy route EVERY time.

Check out jottodesk.com. I have their mount in my truck. Works great! I permanently installed an APS transformer for power and a Delorme GPS to hook up to when my laptop is in my truck. I also have the cell modem for email and internet on the fly... Link: http://www.jottodesk.com/Comersus/store/co...5&status=-1

I have had the 6k but now have the 8k and like them much better. Make sure you get the whole kit which includes a dual transformer setup for each bulb. I got them on ebay for about $250. The guy I got them from is zgperformance. If I remember correctly, you need the 9005 kit for the Chevy truck. Worth every dime! Make sure you mount the transformers with sheetmetal screws. I took off the grill assy to make it easier.

Try LG Motorsports in Garland. I know they do all the LSx stuff for Camaros & Firebirds and they built my 700R4 pretty strong. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sorry, but LG COMPLETELY screwed up my 30th Anniv. Trans Am. tranny. I wouldn't let them change my spark plugs. From my extensive experience with the LS1 stuff, the only thing they know how to do is suspension parts. DON'T LET THEM TOUCH YOUR MOTOR OR TRANS! They will not back up their work. I have talked to several people in Dallas who had the same bad experiences.

Mine is M32 also. Anybody know someone in Dallas area that does the beef-up on the 4l65e?? Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks for the quick reply. Will this thing hold up with a supercharger? I have done the heads cam thing in the past, but FI seems the easiest way to get her going.

I have been looking for about an hour now for a post that says what trans is in the 06 SSS. I just read an article in "GM High-Tech Performance" Feb. 07 edition that talks about the 2007 Silverado SS (Classic) having 4.10 rear gears and a 4L85e transmission just like the 06. Is this guy on crack or acid?? Does the 06 SS Intimidator have the 4L60 or what? Also, I know for a fact that the rear gears are 3.73 - It says so on my window sticker. Someone enlighten me please....

1. Remove both visors - T-15 or T-20 torx heads 2. Remove the clips for visors - T-15 or T-20 (usually different #1) 3. Remove overhead console - Phillips screw in front, pull down on back (snaps in) 4. Remove both A-pillar post covers (between windsheild and door) - just pull toward center of truck at top of cover. Once top is loose, pull toward roof to get the tabs out of the dash. Watch for your speaker wires on tweeters - unplug 5. Pull down plastic covers where front and back door meet - snaps back in(extended cab) 6. Remove the domelight - pry on side with small slot toward middle and down. The lens will drop down, the opposite side you pry on has a clip on the lens. Once it drops down, remove the power clip to completely remove 7. Remove push plugs at rear (2) with door panel tool 8. Leave back pillar covers in - (where rear seatbelts are) 9. With a pick tool or flathead screwdriver, pull the hard plastic pins on each end of the OS (oh, sh_t) handles straight out. The handles will stay in place, just get the pins about 1.5 inches out - do all 3 handles. The headliner should drop down in the front. There are two clips under the headliner in the back that are glued in. Just give it a tug forward and they will come loose, which also will get it out from the rear pillar covers. You don't need them for re-install, but take them out or you will have a rattle going on. I have done at least 50 of these. If you have power tools, you can get it out in about 10 minutes.

BTW - your milage and hours are stored in the "little black box" somewhere in the vehicle. Make sure that you put the exact milage. If you have onstar, they can check your milage without you even knowing it!

Get ahold of this guy. He can program it. You will need to fill out an odometer disclosure statement first. Quick turn around (within a week usually) http://stores.ebay.com/SPEEDOMETER-SALES-AND-SERVICE

Turns out it was a 50a fuse under the hood. The fuse didn't look blown through the window on the top, but I checked it with my meter and it was blown on the side!??

While pulling a wire through the rubber grommet in the firewall (the one with all of the wires going through) I apparently shorted out a yellow wire to ground. The truck was turned off at the time and I figured it just popped a fuse. The following now do not work... Cluster lights Emergency Lights Blinkers Driver Power Window I checked all of the fuses, they all seem to look ok (driver side dash and big box under hood on driver side) I thought maybe a PCM reset was needed, so I took loose the ground for over an hour and just hooked it back up...No luck Anybody have some idea where else and what else I can check?? I am losing hope here.....