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Fast2500Ak

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Posts posted by Fast2500Ak

  3. Dual Magnaflows?

    in Bolt On Performance

    Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)

    I have a dual in dual out magnaflow. Its alright, I got it because it was quiet and I my parents house is in a neighborhood which has a strict home owners covenant otherwise I might have gone strait pipes with an x. I did this video back in the day for a physics project. I was supposed to beak a wine glass with waves but try as I might I could only get the glass to flex with sound waves. Thats when I remembered the duality of light and deborglie's equation. Well long story short I gave up on sound and found the degobglie wavlength of my truck which in general form is defined by an objects mass and velocity (only works on little particles like electrons I know, anything big and the accuracy goes way off. I ran the wine glass over and filmed it for my presentation, which received an A.

     

    This is the presentation minus the running over the glass part edited for my myspace page.

     

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_3QJAffxDIk

     

    It has a few different shots

     

    I was about to do a cam swap awhile back but then a cash eating monster named college attacked me. I think when I get around to the swap I'll probably go with straits and an x. This magnaflow didn't drone at first but now that its nice and broken in it does it quite badly.

     

    12'SROCK your truck sounds badass

  4. Need Some Serious Help

    in Forced Induction and Nitrous

    Posted

    Could be a power issue, I know that once when my maf was failing the code specifies low circuit voltage. I think the IAT is connected in there somehow too, I know those sometimes like to stick. When my MAF failed it would just die at idle, I'd hit a stoplight, and sometimes it be ok, the sometimes it would just stumble then die. Got really annoying.

  5. Wife's Car Broke

    in Off-Topic/General

    Posted

    This may be a dumb question since you're used to living in a cold weather climate, but how cold was it? My old truck overheated on me once when it was about -10 outside. Turned out I didn't have the correct ratio of antifreeze and my radiator froze solid. With no water circulation the truck overheated. The temp guage was all over the place. I let everything thaw out, flushed the radiator and that bad boy fired right back up.

     

    That just happened to me at -40 to -50 degree weather, not fun.

  6. Overheating And No Heater At -40

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted

    I think you might be on to something, it seems like when the engine is hot (block heater) and the ambient temperature is very cold is when this happens. You think it might be the differential in temperature between the engine and radiator

    OK this sheds a lot of light on the subject - I once had the same thing happen to me 15-years ago in CA, it was 10-degrees outside and I did not put enough antifreeze in the system, anyways driving to work and my truck overheated; I pulled over to the side of the road and found the upper hose boiling hot but the bottom hose frozen completely solid with ice, the entire length of the hose. And I suspect this is also happening to you. The top hose can be frozen because the hot coolant will eventually thaw it out (heat rises) but the bottom hose if frozen solid will never thaw without warm ambient temps.

     

    On drilling the thermostat plate, I have not done this myself but what I have been told is that the little hole will allow hot water to penetrate to the other side of the thermostat and if there is ice or icy water on the other side it will warm it up enough to allow the bi-metallic spring to actually get warm and open. Theory is that the cold water on the "outside" of the thermostat is still keeping the bi-metallic spring cold and hence not opening, and a 1/8" hole (or two) in the plate will not affect engine warm-up to a significant degree. FWIW.

     

    Mr. P.

     

    I'll check to see if its frozen, thanks again I think this is probably the cause.

     

     

    here is a shot in the cold... is your belt spinning the water pump? as cold as it is I would check eveything, your belt could be slipping???

     

     

     

    Yes its spinning

  7. Overheating And No Heater At -40

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)

    i've seen coolant un mixed with a freeze point at -60, the optimum here in vegas is -34. sounds to me like your water pump isn't pumping. get your truck to operating temp then feel the surge tank. engine overheating and heater core not getting any flow of coolant, sounds like a lack of flow to me. if it were a t stat you would still have cab heating.

     

     

     

     

    Good point, bit it seems like it isn't working for a while. Heres a few examples.

     

     

    The first time was a few weeks ago, the first time it got good and cold. I autostarted it twice and came out to find no heat and the temp needle a few ticks past normal. I let it cool down a bit and fired it up and it went completely back to normal.

     

    A few weeks later I take the truck out and after a while of no heater I noticed that was up to temp and started to worry, I turned around and got it to my gramma's house. This time it was a bit warmer closer to the top of the temp gauge but I got it shut off before it got into the red. I let it sit a few minutes and again it was fine.

     

    I went out to the dorm parking lot. -40 and I drove it over to my gramma's house, and again it overheated, not badly (Thank god Fairbanks is such a small town). I twisted the cap and let it puke up a half gallon of coolant then refilled with strait dexcool (no water). After about 10 min it was fine.

     

    This morning it did it again only it about halfway it started working again. It was right as it pushed past norm temp it snapped back and the heater fired up.

     

     

    When it comes back online its sudden, the heater blows hot and the temp drops back to normal.

     

    If I have ice in the lines it could be when the ice melts it starts working again, is that a possibility? It just seems to resume too suddenly to be a pump. But I might just replace it anyways, cheap insurance even if it doesn't work.

     

    Thanks again for all the help!

    :)

  8. Overheating And No Heater At -40

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted

    Hmmm well usually when I've ran into a bad water pump it would be making noise or frozen-up. I would say the thermostat is refusing to open, either there is an air pocket on the engine-side of the tstat, or the radiator-side is so cold as to keep it from opening. Either way you might try drilling a 1/8" hole in the plunger so that hot water & air is allowed to circulate even when the thermostat is closed. :confused:

     

    Mr. P.

     

    I think you might be on to something, it seems like when the engine is hot (block heater) and the ambient temperature is very cold is when this happens. You think it might be the differential in temperature between the engine and radiator

     

     

    Plugged Heater Core or Radiator is also a possibility. You said the truck overheated, how bad? You could have fried your head gaskets too.........

     

    Not too badly, the worst time was the only time it went from check temp to overheat, but I killed the engine and pushed it the rest of the way into the driveway.

     

     

    Sounds to me like you have the coolant freezing up. If you take one of the hoses off I'd bet you find ice in them.

     

    Could this have to do with the antifreeze mix

     

     

    Eh heard the weather up there was bad... i would pull that thing in a garage and let it de thaw and see if it fixes it... its actually fixed a couple things for me when i was up there

     

    I like that idea, and I wish I had a garage.

  11. Overheating And No Heater At -40

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted

    Well it's -40 and my truck decided that it wants to keep all of the heat to itself. The heater core is getting no heat and the neither is the radiator. She's overheated once or twice since the problem started but never tapped the gauge. Sometimes taking off the radiator cap will get things going again so I thought it was just air in the lines. The surge tank level is good. The thermostat is fairly new the old one went right before winter. I'm thinking it might be the water pump.

     

    Any ideas? I'm freezin' up here?

     

    Any input will be greatly appreciated.

    :)

  12. My Door Blew Open

    in Off-Topic/General

    Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)

    Mine dose something like that too sometimes but has to be below -35, did it to me this morning. It was close to 50 below and when the latch gets cold it sticks but sort of feels solid just a little loose, WD-40 helps a little bit but something that would stay on better might have better results. Sometimes holding a lighter to the metal latch'll free it up. Other than that just wear your seatbelt and don't lean on it, and especially wear your seatbelt if you plan on leaning on it. My moneys on it freezing but it could be something else, will it do this consistently? At 26 above with forst you might have had some humidity. Does your truck live in a garage or on the driveway?

  15. Dying At Idle

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)

    I could be sayin somethin stupid could ur MAF be bad I know if u touch the little spings or wires inside it tends to make them go bad. I also had a Slp intake that didnt fit to well and the tube would suck air before the MAF and would make the engine run all crazy like u said the RPms would want drop and Id try to give a little gas and the Rpms would jump and truck would jump like Five feet just some ideas

    :confused:

     

     

    Well that is exactly right, the MAF had failed. That was causing the dying at idle, but the high rpm stalling was the result of a dying fuel pump. That was why it was hard to pin-point the problem as it had compounded itself. Shop just got done replacing units.

     

    Thanks again for all the input :)

  16. Dying At Idle

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted · Edited by Fast2500Ak (see edit history)

    I'd have to guess the battery until the maf code showed up. I had a similar problem where it would die when coming to a stop or change from park to drive, a new battery fixed it for me, but I never threw any codes. My volt gauge would drop to around 11 or 12V right before it would die.

     

    Mine did that too, but when I had the battery tested it passed. The guy said it was only slightly low on charge but within reason, not so sure I trust that now. This problem sure seems like an electrical problem at any rate, because when the engine is running, it can seem fine for awhile, sometimes for ten minutes or so, then just starts dying out of the blue, the rpms drop, then the engine slams back to life and nearly jerks the wheels off the rotors, kind of like the engine has narcoleptcey. Then it sometimes goes away again and then comes back, catches me off guard, not fun on ice.

  17. Dying At Idle

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted

    I did run seafoam and I clean the MAF regularly. Both of those were good suggestions though. I ended up flying back to college, I got about 40 miles out of wasilla by that time the engine was kicking on and off even at high rpm making the truck buck violently. Needless to say I decided it was a bad idea to try and make it go a few hundred more miles like that in a white out, that and a friend of mine who went ahead called and said there was a foot of snow on the road near cantwell and the highway was closed at peters creek. When I was in Wasilla I went to napa, rirped out the alternator and had it tested, it checked out fine. Its at the dealership now, I got to frustrated trying to riddle it out and its

     

    When I unhook the MAF the the idle characteristics stay about the same, how often do MAF sensors go bad?

  19. Dying At Idle

    in Engine Tech And Modification

    Posted

    My engine (LQ4) usually idles around 500rpm. It does so fairly smoothly. But just today though it started intermittently dying when I come to a stop, or when I shift from park to drive. Especially when the truck has been off for a while, or has been sitting at a long stop light. Once I get about 1500 RPM the engine runs flawlessly, but as soon as it drops it seems to cut out, then start, then cut out, and so on; and if I give it gas it does not get going until it resumes from cutting out and it surges. The surges are about a second apart.

     

    The idle just seems to bog a few times then give up and stall. No check engine lights have been thrown.

     

    I have concluded several causes:

     

    1) last night I got some gas. I don't particularly trust this Holiday station, but my favorite chevron was just torn down. This was immediately before the incident started and it was a fill from close to empty.

    (Bad gas: clogged filter, injectors, poor combustion)

     

    2) Recently my battery (few year old opt. red top) has been discharged a number of times, three involved bad judgment and me using the battery to run the radio while in the garage while aligning the lights I installed behind the grill, three were a result of cold, one was a result of console lights being left on while out in the cold. On this last time the battery refused to start on my newer trickle charger and needed to be left at full start position for about 15 min on my older one, and really didn't want to take a charge back, but did eventually. The -40 degree + weather has killed it multiple times before this and it's always bounced right back.

    (Not enough amps? is that a possible cause?)

     

    3) About a week ago I noticed the alternator is making a hissing sort of sound, I guess it might be a bering or something

    (When the rpms go up, the engine returns to normal, so I don't think this is the problem, just seemed a bit odd.)

     

    4) It could also be a TPS sensor, I think 00-02 has had some problems with those

    (A friend of mine told me this a while back, but I'm not sure if its accurate)

     

    5) something interfering with the pcm

    (not sure what that could be... ground maybe)

     

    I clean my: throttle body, MAF, air filter, ect... regularly. this afternoon I put in two bottles of HEET and three cans of Seafoam, and drove around

    for a while. It returned to normal. Then when I was about to leave a friends house after sitting for a while it started doing it again. It seems like after a while of driving it gets better. So I'm leaning towards alternator or the battery. also the volts jump around a bit right before she dies, the other gauges are completely normal.

     

    What do you guys think?

     

    Thanks in advance for the input, and sorry for the long post. I have to drive the 399 mile trip through the middle of nowhere back up to UAF in Fairbanks on Tuesday and I'd like to have the piece of mind of at least knowing what is causing this.

  25. Rear Posi

    in AWD, Differential, & Transmission Tech

    Posted

    I just got back from under my truck and ITS COLD OUT THERE! Also my rear diff appears to have a fill plug on the passengers side and an identical drain plug at the bottom. Both appear to have a large square socket in them which seems to fit a standard ratchet, the part that the socket hooks onto. At least I hope this is what I'm supposed to use to unscrew them. So I think I'll go ahead and change the fluid, what kind of diff fluid should I use?

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