misterp Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 Hey all, since installing my TransGo shift kit there is a distinct klunk when putting the transmission into reverse; I can also get the same drivetrain klunk when jumping on and off the throttle at speed you can hear/feel the slack in the drivetrain. The SS only has 20K miles on it, and the u-joints feel tight so question is would this indicate a ring/pinion problem? What can I do to better narrow down the source of the drivetrain clunk? I think that the problem existed before installation of the shift kit, but now with the correction the trans 'kicks' into gear and is unmasking the problem. Or am I just worried over nothing and inventing a problem? Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 I have had the same problem twice now. Once when the truck only had about 2500 miles and then again at about 22K miles, dealer replaced the slipyoke both times. The second time they also replaced the u-joints. Does it also klunk after reversing and putting it into drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSilverad03 Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 I'm noticing the same thing with my truck after installing the transgo hd2 in my SS. It sounds like the u-joints are going south on the driveshaft . I need to get under my truck to check for play on the shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted July 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 Yes it sounds just like worn U-joints, but I just cannot believe that because (1) the mileage is too low and (2) I just put the JAG tranny in, so I've shaken the driveline and there is no slop in the u-joints that I can tell. That's why I wonder if it's ring/pinion?? or pinion bushing/bearing? FWIW my buddies stock '03 Avalanche has the same clunking, his is a bit worse... Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSilverad03 Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 I wouldn't be surprised if my joints are going bad with the 1-2 shift that my truck has now with the shift kit. I would really like to ride in somebody elses truck with the same kit to see if mine is right. I have had cars with shift kits but man this thing is violent at just half throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hank Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 i know what you mean. mine shifts into second HARD, after only rolling about 15 feet and bearlly touching the throtle. it sure feels good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbpsychoSS Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Mine clunks if my foot is off the brake , d to r .................................................. D to R with pedal depressed there is no clunk i too have the zippy shift kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtodd82 Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 mine clunks very loudly going to reverse as well. i have never been too worried about it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted July 13, 2005 Report Share Posted July 13, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oscareltemblo Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 mine clunks very loudly going to reverse as well. i have never been too worried about it though. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.justin. Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 Mine does the loud clunk when shifting into Reverse also, but is quiet going into other gears. It's good to hear that you guys with the transgo kit think the shift is violent, I've been wondering if my trans guy installed it wrong. At half throttle and above I can hear interior pieces creak from the "punch in the kidnets" when it shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tawss04 Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 GM has a service bulliten on this. They dont always list all the trucks but its the same. Hope this helps Drivetrain - Bump/Clunk When Stopping or Accelerating Notes File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004A Date: September, 2004 TECHNICAL Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) Models This bulletin is being revised to include additional vehicles, parts to support those additional vehicles and additional diagnostic information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle). Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop. Cause A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition. Diagnostic Tips There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement Some of the documents available in SI include: ^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266) ^ Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290) ^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580) ^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001 ^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042 ^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028 Correction Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below. Follow the service procedure below. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection. Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint. 3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange. 4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange. 5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. Notice: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal. 6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press. Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint. 7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers. 8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring. 9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket. 10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear. 11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke. 12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke. 13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint. 14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring. 15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections. 16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating. 17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information. 18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint. 19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom. 20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup. 21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear. 22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear. 23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups. 24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups. Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup 25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup. 26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove. 27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place. 28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer. 29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove. 30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case. 31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft. 32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 Nm (19 lb ft). 33. Lower the vehicle. Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO Warranty Information For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table. Disclaimer © 2005 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved. Terms of Use Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4nash Posted July 20, 2005 Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 when you have a build tranny they do make more noise going in and out of gear. when i shift mine into drive or reverse it does make a clunk sound, but i don't think it is anything to worry about. Mine has done it ever since i had my tranny built so i think it is the norm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted July 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2005 GM has a service bulliten on this. They dont always list all the trucks but its the same. Hope this helps Drivetrain - Bump/Clunk When Stopping or Accelerating Notes File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004A ... Well fine and good, but does this apply to us - the rear driveshafts we have are aluminum, not steel. Mr. P. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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