Dynamat or?

[FlyinTurbo]

I'm interested in putting Dynamat (or a competitor) into the interior of my Silverado. So, a few questions:

 

1. Who knows of a good, reasonably price interior shop local to me that could handle removing the entire interior, installing the dynamat and replacing the interior. I'd prefer the work to be high quality with no shortcuts (means no broken interior bits and reduced vibration rattles from interior removal)

 

2. What other sound dampning products are avail on the market? I know of Dynamat, but there has got to be a competitor who makes as good or better products for same or less cash.

 

3. Is there any other advice that anyone could give in regards to doing this? I've thought that when doing this, I'd do the entire interior to give the quietest possible results, but I am open to others experience and/or opinions.

[SSplaytoy]

I wouldnt know about shops where you live but this is most certainly a DIY job.

 

The more Dynamat you buy, the cheaper it is. It's the best stuff IMO, and they make all types of it. I have to do my roof, back wall, and have already done my doors. Believe me, it is really easy.

 

Depending on what you want to do specifically, I don't know. But the door panels pop off easily. The little piece around the handle comes out and the switches pop out of the top. Back panels are just as simple. Simply unbolt your seat from the floor and back cable to get the back seat up and out and remove the insulation from the back wall to lay Dynamat on it. If you do the floor , you only need to do part of it(the back where your system would go). So just pull up the carpet and insulation and lay Dynamat. As for the headliner, take off the little overhead console with a philips, the visors, lights, and door thingys(the thing where the front and back doors meet). You should be able to pull it down then. Then Dynamat the roof.

 

Put it all back together when your done just the opposite it came apart

 

And you let the Dynamat sit in the sun first so it gets all nice and sticky.

[SSplaytoy]

Just looked on ebay, there is some stuff called FATMAT.

[TBSS]

I've heard nothing but good things about RAAM Mat. I think the guy's name is Rick, and he sells on EBay. I know that at least 3 guys on LS1Tech have used his stuff and they really like it. Price is right too.

[CraigW]

I think its made by Stinger its called Roadkill its about the same as dynomat. I used the pro series Roadkill.

[Xero]

i unsed dynomat extreme on my doors

[FlyinTurbo]

thanks for the advice, fellas.

 

I am not really a DIY kinda guy, but I guess I could tackle this.

I'm not putting a system in my truck, I just want it to be as quiet as possible. Holding normal conversations with passengers as we travel at high rates of speed thru mexico on less than perfect roads for 6 - 7 hours at a time en route to San Carlos to dive for the weekend is enough motivation. Sound can really fatigue you.

 

So, my plan is to give it a try as a DIY project, especially after i got a quote from a local shop to do it to the tune of $600! I am going to do the entire interior as well. So, to facilitate a successful project, can anyone give me specifics on how much I will need to completely cover the entire inside of the truck... from the entire floor, to the door panels to the roof? I'd love to do the back wall and the firewall... but, I dont think I have the skills to tackle the firewall.

 

I'm a real freak when it comes to attention to detail, so as I tear into the truck, I'm sure I'll be vacuuming, scrubbing, etc the inside to make it as clean as possible. Will I have any issues with seats/carpet etc fitting back into place when I have all this heavy goo spread throughout the truck?

 

Cliffnotes:

 

1. What dynamat should I use?

2. How much should I purchase to do the whole thing?

3. Any more specific advice for me before I purchase and attempt the install?

 

Tia Fellas.

[SSplaytoy]

Check out the DYNAMAT site for what you want exactly.

 

The only problem you may encounter is the wiring below the seats. Thats if you forget where it plugs in. The center console is held on by brackets that unscrew. Other than that you should do fine. The firewall would be a real PITA. I'm not sure it's worth it if your not that big of a DIY person. Find out how much you need by:

 

1: Find the area of your floor

2: Find the area of your headliner

3: Find the area of your back wall

4: Find the area of the doors your gonna dynamat

 

Add it all together and there you have it. How much you need.

 

Good Luck. Might want to take pics for a HOW TO maybe.

 

And with the hot weather, a case of beer might help. And a long day.

[fast4popper]

I have been asked to put my .02$ in on this thread so here goes. I JUST finished my front a rear doors on my SS tonight, I can tell you this, I did it in anticipation of my system being put in next week, and all i did was put the factory Bose speakers back and and it made a phenominal difference. I used the Stinger RoadKill Expert Mat and the Stinger spray damping for the outside skins. huge difference!! I put 2 layers of the spray on the outer skins and one layer of mat. the doors panels fit tighter and "thud" alot better when slammed, also I noticed a big improvment on the road noise even though I this is all i have done. Now In know that some of you see different deadening stuff around the net, I have not used it all but I will tell you that there is NOT much difference from A to B. They all work by simply adding mass (weight) to the panel therefore lowering its resonant frequency. If you are adding new speakers AT LEAST have them deaden the area around the speaker you will get way better bass output from it.

 

Now on to the good stuff, I can get this stuff WAY below retail. I do not have my price list with me but I can get it to you. the only problem is that it weigh so much shipping might be kinda high, also I can get the spray to you with a gun to spray it too. If any one is interested please let me know in a PM and I will get back to you. I have sold a few things on this list and I like to think that I have taken care of people so if you have doubts about dealing with me please ask and I will get you references.

 

Hope this helps -C-

[WidowKiss]

I have always used body putty...aka Bondo and cardboard/duct tape.

 

It's cheap as hell....cardboard is free for me duct tape is $5 for 250' and bondo is 1 gallon for $12. I can do an entire vehicle out of a refrigerator box and a gallon of bondo.

 

Seals the doors so no air leaks or vibrations and I can paint it black to match if any shows thru plus it's sandable so no rough sufaces.

 

only drawback it's a bit more time consuming and could be a bit more messy

[fast4popper]

I have always used body putty...aka Bondo and cardboard/duct tape.

 

It's cheap as hell....cardboard is free for me duct tape is $5 for 250' and bondo is 1 gallon for $12. I can do an entire vehicle out of a refrigerator box and a gallon of bondo.

 

Seals the doors so no air leaks or vibrations and I can paint it black to match if any shows thru plus it's sandable so no rough sufaces.

 

only drawback it's a bit more time consuming and could be a bit more messy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

[WidowKiss]

I have always used body putty...aka Bondo and cardboard/duct tape.

 

It's cheap as hell....cardboard is free for me duct tape is $5 for 250' and bondo is 1 gallon for $12. I can do an entire vehicle out of a refrigerator box and a gallon of bondo.

 

Seals the doors so no air leaks or vibrations and I can paint it black to match if any shows thru plus it's sandable so no rough sufaces.

 

only drawback it's a bit more time consuming and could be a bit more messy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

basically cover the holes in the door with duct tape and carboard (if it;s a large hole) then cover with an ample amount of bondo (makes the door basically act as a sealed box)

 

most of the time it has better results then dynamat or similar product...little nicer on the wallet too

[fast4popper]

I have always used body putty...aka Bondo and cardboard/duct tape.

 

It's cheap as hell....cardboard is free for me duct tape is $5 for 250' and bondo is 1 gallon for $12. I can do an entire vehicle out of a refrigerator box and a gallon of bondo.

 

Seals the doors so no air leaks or vibrations and I can paint it black to match if any shows thru plus it's sandable so no rough sufaces.

 

only drawback it's a bit more time consuming and could be a bit more messy

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

basically cover the holes in the door with duct tape and carboard (if it;s a large hole) then cover with an ample amount of bondo (makes the door basically act as a sealed box)

 

most of the time it has better results then dynamat or similar product...little nicer on the wallet too

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

dont the bondo crack? I would think it would crack after being slammed so many times. I can see how it would work but man I would have never thought about it.

[misterp]

dont the bondo crack?  I would think it would crack after being slammed so many times. I can see how it would work but man I would have never thought about it.

You don't reinforce it with mesh or screen or

[6.0ss]

WOW.. I have never heard that either. i have used dynamat over bondo filled holes if I install a sub in a spare tire well and use the sheet metal as the enclosure, but never in doors.

I guess I can't even have an opinion about this,, never seen it done!

 

I dynamated Using Hush Mat.. worked well!

 

front doors INside and outside panel 10sq ft each

rear doors 5 sqfeet each, inside and outside panel

Floor double thick layer 80sq feet

roof 10 sq feet

Rear wall, 15-30 (do lots here, 15-30 sqft is double deep and it helps lots if you have aftermarket exaust. My corsa sport does not sound that loud anymore unless the windowns are open.)