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Vortech relocation problems


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I have the vortech unit on my truck and I wanted to do a little poject that would move a few things around for future mods. The way the vortech is set up you have a mile to go before the air actually gets to the blower. I moved the batt. to the hd second location and then installed some aluminum tubing and filter to the old batt. location. Thus taken about four feet out of the air intake side. I had to lengthen the maf wires for this. Well now the truck doesn't want to idle to well and wanted to die a few times. I had about a 25 mile drive home on the freeway and now it seems to be idling better. Do you guys think that the computer just needed time to compensate for the new maf location and shorter intake travel? On another note, I had to run positive batt. cable from the end of the factory one to the other side of the truck, what the hell is the power cable running out of the relay box? And can I just run that to the small power take off by the block? The negative batt. cable had a extra wire hooked up to it too, I just ran them both right back to a ground, is that ok. Sorry for the many questions but I want to make sure that what I did is ok before I start to finalize the wiring. Thanks guys

 

This is my old set up with all the extra plastic vortech crap in the way.

IMG_0009.jpg

 

 

This is CurtD's truck from performance.net I just moved everything like his (except the aftercooler)

Copyofintercooler001.jpg

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:withstupid: Great idea swapping the battery and air cleaner :thumbs::thumbs: MAF problem - did you log anything, maybe that can give you some insight into what the PCM is seeing? loose connection or incorrect ground? :dunno:

 

Mr. P.

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it's tough to say for sure what it is, but you may have changed the resistance of the maf wiring causing inaccurate readings. my other thought would be that you are just running into a problem due to having the battery disconnected. every time you disconnect the battery you lose all of your idle settings. it is very common to have an idle problem after disconnecting the battery for a few hundred miles.

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Yeah you know what Zippy I had the same thing happen to me when the new head unit was sent out to me, but this time it was really wanting to die when I would come to a stop. Like I said it has calmed down a bit. The MAF wires were not soldered so I would not screw up the ohm resistance on them, they are 18G factory and I used 16G.

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It's done through time. It is doing better I just wanted some tech. help to make sure I didn't f*ck antyhing up.

i remember there being an idle relearn process where you start your truck, put the ebrake on, throw it in drive and let it sit for like 5 mins or something, then throw back in park, shut it down for 30 seconds, then fire it back up and it should be complete. It was something like that cause i had to do it when i put in a new PCM a while ago

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I think it is just the battery disconnect thing. If you ran through all of your "idiot" checks (i.e. MAF not installed backwards, check for codes, loose tube clamps etc..) I think you should be fine. Give her a few WOT runs. :devil:

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