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Building a remote mount turbo system


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i am helping my little brother build a remote system. Basically we are trying to follow a system similar to the STS. this is going on a 97 S-10 2.2 liter...yeah i know what your thinking but he's not looking to go 12 seconds....he's a senior in H.S and wanting to put togeter a good working system from scratch. we're going with a garret t3 and mounting it under the bed infront of the axle..passenger side. we will build our own flange to plumb in the exhaust and use the tip and pipe from my stock SS exhaust to made the exhaust from the turbo to infront of the wheel. air will go from a K/N under the bed to the turbo,piped under the truck to the throttlebody. oil from the oil psi senser t'd into 1/2" brake line back to the turbo, then it will drain into a electric pump to be pushed back up to the dipstick tube. we'll control boost 5 to 6 psi "about all the stock fuel system should handle as we do not want to have to upgrade it at this point" with the wastegate. a couple questions...since the intake manifold will now have positive pressure..i.e 5 to 6 psi instead of it's normal vaccum where should we get out vaccum from. with the stock set-up the truck needs vaccum for the vaccum brake booster, it has a vaccum servo in the heat/air control to control direction and pcv valve. do i have to run a vaccum line off the intake side of the turbo inlet??? how do people running boost applications cure this issue? any past experiece or suggestions would be nice. thanks in advace :chevy:

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As far as your vaccum concerns, during normal cruising ther will be little to no boost which should not effect the a/c and heater control valve and when braking the turbo will not be boosting cause you are coming off the throttle (throttl plate closed) so there will be vaccum for the brake booster. You are not running a a huge turbo, built motor etc for serious racing, you are just trying to get a little more out if it, you will fine with what you want to do.

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  • 4 weeks later...

You will also need to add check valves to your existing vacuum system to keep boost out of sensitive areas.

 

I am not sure what all is vac controlled on the 2.2, but on the SyTy theres a few things. The brake booster, cruise control, charcoal canister, EGR and dash harness all get check valves to prevent boost from entering them.

SyTys also had a vacuum ball to serve as a reservoir while the plenum was in boost.

That way you could operate the hvac and cruise while under boost.

Not that you would need to, but just in case.

 

Also, you may find a freeze plug you can pull out and use for the oil return.

 

www.hahnracecraft.com will have a lot of the fittings and flanges you'll most likely need.

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Oh yeah, there are also 2 PCV valves, one to operate under vac, one under boost.

 

Under vac the PCV plumbed directly to the TB is open, under boost the PCV plumbed before the turbo inlet is open.

Not that constant PCV is terribly important, lots of folks have no clue why boosted factory motors had 2.

 

Some folks will tell you that having no PCV and running the valve covers through breathers to atmosphere can weaken the seal the rings hold eventually causing excessive wear.

Not sure if it would even be measurable, but race motors dont have PCV.

If they do its usually an elec evacuation pump.

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