fox_forma Posted July 20, 2006 Report Share Posted July 20, 2006 Ok before you guys start with the pics thing I will take some more in a little, soon as i picked up my digi it died plus I am sweating my ass off. To the point, I finally got my subs and and amp in today. I have 2 ARC audio 12d4's and a cadence z9000 amp putting about 350 to each sub. The box is a sub thump I believe and has about .92 airspace per chamber or something like that. The subs call for 1. Is this a big deal? I noticed I'm not picking up the lows as much as I would like so I wasnt sure if maybe that is the case. I could add polyfil i guess but wanted to get some opinions, other than that it sounds pretty damn good. The amp has all this crap on it which I am also not use to like sub sonic filter, x-over freq, bass boost and boost freq, Line Out (HPF/FULL/LPF) and X-OVER (HPF/FULL/LPF). How do I want to set that stuff up? Right now I have each sub wired in parrallel to give each a 2ohm load then hooked up to each channel, i am also thinking maybe i'm drawing to much current which could also be the problem maybe with not hitting the lows like I want so I will also try wiring them in series then into parrellel to give me a 4ohm load bridged. Any input? On a good note, i lost 7lbs just installing all this crap, I also did the rear seat fold down trick and of course where my amp was mounted it was getting hit by the child seat brackets so I had to move it which was a task into itself, i opted to keep the seat in while doing it. I also ran a toggle switch which i put in my center console area to turn off the amp, very pleased with deciding to do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r8rs4lf Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Sucks when you do the rear seat trick and it hits the amp huh? Same thing happened to me, I wacked them off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted July 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 yeah i was going to whack them off but i'm set now, it sucks cause it bent in my fan cover piece and I heard this god awfull noise and thought i fried my amp but I just fixed everything, ended up moving the amp way right so the tabs are out of the way, i just have to re-wire my subs now for a 4ohm load and add a little polyfill. Damn is it hot out!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 The box is a sub thump I believe and has about .92 airspace per chamber or something like that. The subs call for 1. Is this a big deal? Not really if it is a sealed enclosure. I noticed I'm not picking up the lows as much as I would like so I wasnt sure if maybe that is the case. I could add polyfil i guess but wanted to get some opinions, other than that it sounds pretty damn good. Yes, the lower freq. will be altered by having a smaller than desired enclosure. You will need to figure out your overall "Q" value of the enclosure. There are aweful formulas to figure out the optimal enclosure volume but you will be splitting hairs at this point. Polyfill is a very good option if it is a sealed enclosure to remediate in your situation. The amp has all this crap on it which I am also not use to like sub sonic filter, x-over freq, bass boost and boost freq, Line Out (HPF/FULL/LPF) and X-OVER (HPF/FULL/LPF). How do I want to set that stuff up? Right now I have each sub wired in parrallel to give each a 2ohm load then hooked up to each channel, i am also thinking maybe i'm drawing to much current which could also be the problem maybe with not hitting the lows like I want so I will also try wiring them in series then into parrellel to give me a 4ohm load bridged. Any input? A subsonic filter is a nice to have but not necessary for your application. I believe it filters out 25Hz and lower from your input at a steep slope of most likely 60dB per Octave. Since this is a dedicated sub amp, I wouldn't worry about it. If you were pushing mids with it, then yes it is a nice feature. On or off, your call. Your other acronyms you state deal with cross-over functions and input levels. Again, you are using this amp (which has alot of functions BTW) for a dedicated sub amp so you want to set all frequencies from 150Hz and lower to be amplified. I assume you have a cross-over frequency range on the amp? I favor 150 and lower but others like 100 and lower ("feels" louder). Bass boost is a fancy way of creating a cross-over curve that enhances low frequencies and may boost input levels a tad from 20Hz to 250Hz. Wast of time IMO. Leave it off. HPF/FULL/LPF is an acronym for high pass filter, full range and Low pass filter (filter could mean frequencies as well). This determines where the cut off will be on the filter. For a LPF, an inductor is put in series with the speaker to Filter or cut off high frequencies from being amplified. HPF is the same but cuts out lows. Full has no cut or X-over. I am not sure on the slope or the start cut point on the low pass but I can guess around 250Hz and above and a slope of 6dB/Octave I would set the HPF to be on for the X-over. There a few functions you state that do the same thing really. If you have a seperate initial X-over with an adjustible freq., then you could leave the LPF/FULL/HPF set on Full. Like I said before, there is alot going on with that amp and I am not 100% sure unless I saw the dials and switches. Oh, when I say slope, think of it as the efficiency for the X-over. 6dB is crap 24 is nice and 60 is strong. Did I make it worse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted July 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 oh shat!!! Thanks, i will see what i can actually comprehend on all this, i think I have it mostly figured out but we'll see. I did set the gains using a multimeter though so thats good right, haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaotik1 Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 Where are the pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted July 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 here are your pics, dont mind the mess inside the truck, bout to clean it out in a few Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaotik1 Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 I have always liked the cadence amps, cheap and decent power. The one thing I could never get past, is that damn orange. I have two covers that I coated one in pearl and the other in silver. lol Looks good man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meegs Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 what is the picture of in the center councel? you did run the PAC interface directly off of the head unit CORRECT?? otherwise this is where you are loosing the Boom feel. Oh, BTW....DAmn nice box ain't it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meegs Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 never mind...i clicked on the pic and saw it was your "valet switch"! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted July 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 never mind...i clicked on the pic and saw it was your "valet switch"! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah i put a remote switch in since the amps fan turns on whenever there is power and with the stock security system for our radio's it would constantly turn off and on for a while after the truck would shut down, plus I kinda like the idea of not always having the system on when i dont want it on. I do have the PAC behind the headunit, some people said you can adjust the gains on the PAC but I never got a straight answer with that, I added some polyfill and it seems to be hitting a little lower now so I'm happy for the time being. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meegs Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 yeah, i have had dead battery because of the cooling fans on my amps, i now have a similuar valet switch in my rig. On the PAC the level gains are directly on the face of the unit. +/- designation for gains. mine are set to the 12 O'clock or Zero mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_forma Posted July 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 yeah, i have had dead battery because of the cooling fans on my amps, i now have a similuar valet switch in my rig. On the PAC the level gains are directly on the face of the unit. +/- designation for gains. mine are set to the 12 O'clock or Zero mark. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> how do they come when you buy the PAC? I never touched any of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meegs Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 well mine came the way i installed it. at that zero or 12O'clock mark. I figured i would tune my system first and then if it did not sound the way i liked i would mess around with that. my stereo sounded fine and i never took out the head unit again. but yeah, mine came from their factory at neutral/zero/12 what have you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meegs Posted July 21, 2006 Report Share Posted July 21, 2006 I guess i am using a capasitor as well. dunno, that may make a bit of difference. it is just a 1 fared left over from years ago. I know they make new ones that are like 80+fareds for cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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