fordsareslow Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Was looking under my hood tonight and found this stuff. It is on the front driverside of the motor right where the head meets the block. It is only located at the #1 cylinder. Is this norma corrosion? Could I be in trouble? Oil is clean and free of water, and truck is running fine, what are your expert opinions??? Could it be the head gasket starting to go??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Looks like it may be a slow coolant leak to me. Never seen it build up like that if it is. That stuff looks wet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtie70SS Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Is it coolant or Power steering fluid? I had a PS hose replaced under warranty. I have also read on the F-body forums where guys have had to retorque their heads...but mostly with ARP head bolts. I'd put some dye in it to find out for sure where it's coming from. Maybe it's a simple as the coolant crossover tube leaking and running down the head. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 The wierd thing about it was I had just looked under my hood two days prior and I know it was not like that. It was dark last night when I noticed it so I couldn't get a really good look. I'm going to take a closer look today and see if I can tell if it is running down from somewhere or if it is coming fromthe head for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 I talked to a guy I know that builds engines for a living and his thinking is that since I changed the thermostat when I installed the radix and the truck runs at 180* now compared to ~205* stock that possibly this difference in temp under boost could case the head to try to lift up a little causing the leak? He said because being that it is an aluminum head, the gasket is compressed for the heat of running at the ~205* and now that is is running 25* cooler that there may be a difference of 0.001" between the two for the compression of the gasket. (I hope this makes sence, kind of hard to explain in writing with out making it 2 pages long ) It makes sence to me but has anyone ever heard of this? He suggested that I check the torque on all the bolts (while the motor is cold) to make sure. I believe the head bolts are one time use only though, would I be able to tighten some of them if the need it or would I have to get a new bolt? Also what is the correct torque for them? Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PladdPezzPunk Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 looks like time for new heads to me. do the cam too your just about there having the heads off. thats the up side anyways. th gasket is probably corroded right through. not he first time we've seen this from chevy. good luck man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Well if I pull the heads off, I would def. change the cam, but then I might as well change the pistons and change the compression a little to be able to add more boost Then I might as well put all ARP bolts through out the motor and then I might as well just put a LQ9 in it and then... It'll be the "snowball effect" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black2003SS Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Do it...Do it now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 I wouldn't personally want to just re-torque the bolts, although that solution may work for you providing damage hasn't already been done to the gasket. At a minimum I would want to get one set of head bolts and a new gasket and just change it out. I wouldn't want to change the heads now if you planned later to get a 6.0L. Worry about that then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tawss04 Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Definitly a coolant leak. The older 2.2 Cavaliers were notorious for that, GM even had a recall for it. The gasket would blow right next to the head bolt and water jacket, it did not warp the head, the car would run fine and only overheat when it got low enough on coolant. I would at the very least replace the gasket and bolts, but I agree now would be the time for some engine mods if its in your budget Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 24, 2006 Report Share Posted July 24, 2006 Also, how much boost have you been seeing? I can't see lifting your heads from a Radix, but who knows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Only 8lbs. I'm running the 3.3 pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordsareslow Posted July 25, 2006 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 Well I figured out my buget and I have enough to do a few extra things. I'll probably be pulling the motor next week to start a few "upgrades". At the same time, I am going to install the 2.9 pulley, TOG headers, and Zippy shift kit and TB converter. I already have all those parts plus I have about $3,500 to spend. A few questions, I want to stick with the 5.3 block and heads and keep the cam somewhat mild as I still want to be able to smog the truck in a few years. I will probably go ahead and change the pistons and lower the compression a little, maybe 8.5:1 or so, and I will also be using all new ARP bolts/studs. Does anyone know if the number ARP-234-4317 or ARP-234-4316 is the right number for the head studs? I have read that the 4317 is the correct one but I want to make sure. Also when you guys built your motor do you know if the block was honed with deck plates? I know it gives a more accurate measure but my friend(former boss) dosn't have any for the LS based engines. All the labor is free, I just have to pay for the new parts. He gets a good deal with comp so I'll probably go with a custom grind cam and the 918 springs. How much HP are the stock connecting rods supposed to handle? I will be using the ARP-234-6301 rod bolts which will help, but will the rods last? I would rather do things right the first time then have to pull the motor again down the road to fix something else. Sorry for the long posts and all the questions, but after what BenKey and others have said and some reading that I've done, I'd rather just do it right the first time. I'm hoping to be in the 11's when I'm all done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenKey Posted July 25, 2006 Report Share Posted July 25, 2006 I would leave your CR where it is. The 5.3L already has it where it is probably optimum for the 10-12 boost range that the Radix is more than likely limited to. If it were capable of 15lbs of boost, I'd say go for it, but that isn't going to happen. If you still want to change your pistons over to forged, then maybe that would be worth it. You don't see many problems in the strength of the stock rotating assy with the Radix though - although pushing a 5.3L, you may. You could not do that and more than likely be okay with the amount of boost you would be making. Definitely go for the ARP changeout on everything. It all depends on how much effort and money you want to put into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.