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Alright, bone stock 2005 SSS... I want to purchase a STS kit.

 

Make it simple, I am not for sure how much this factory block will take. What can I get away with guys? And what am I going to need to keep it driveable. Basicly what I want to do is maximize the factory block. If I have to do some tranny work, so be it. But I am considering the STS turbo kit, with FMIC, and alky kit.

 

I have tons of hours working on turbocharged vehicles, I really want to add one to my SS. I know I will need a 160* thermostat in there lol. So lemme hear what ya think. Also, are there any other kits out there for sale? I like the STS but comming from the Turbo Buick family I would like to have a front mounted Turbo. Seems like the STS kit is a little bare as well. Alrighty thanks for the help.

 

Once again: 2005 SSS stock. Looking to turbocharge the truck and get the best bang for the buck and max the factory block. *When I say max, I do not mean pushing the very limits, I just want to know how far I can go. IE: Should I go ahead and get the larger turbo and throw on some injectors and a fuel pump. That kind of stuff.

 

V/R

 

-Cory

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most guys don't go past 10lbs of boost. I know it's not the block that's the problem it's the piston and bolts that are the problem. as he mentioned their are a couple of companies that make a front mount system. Their however are not to many that do it for a decent price. I have talked to allen nelson about the sts kit also but ended up changing the plans when I bought a new truck. He was telling me their are a few guys that he did work for that are runnng 16lbs of boost on a stock 6.0 lq9. also I would most definetly invest in a 4l65e level 5 from FLT. That will be my first big mod to my new truck.

Edited by cstchevy (see edit history)
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Alrighty, knowing the cube can support over 1000hp is relaxing. Pistons, cam, heads, I can tweak that stuff later if I ever get the urge too.

 

Now, what about the drivetrain. I would figure my tranny will need a TC and probably some servos and/or shift kit. Any reccomendations?

 

SO there are people running 16 PSI on facotry internals? Hmmmm my thinking was to run the kit FMICd along with Alcohol injection. In my experience the cooler the air, the more boost. Common sense stuff, but I wonder what the 16 pound guys are doing differently. STS reccomended I pickup their 60-1 turbo, that way I can have some room to grow if ever need be. But they reccomended it only with the FMIC and alky.

Edited by Orion231 (see edit history)
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Alrighty, knowing the cube can support over 1000hp is relaxing. Pistons, cam, heads, I can tweak that stuff later if I ever get the urge too.

 

Now, what about the drivetrain. I would figure my tranny will need a TC and probably some servos and/or shift kit. Any reccomendations?

 

SO there are people running 16 PSI on facotry internals? Hmmmm my thinking was to run the kit FMICd along with Alcohol injection. In my experience the cooler the air, the more boost. Common sense stuff, but I wonder what the 16 pound guys are doing differently. STS reccomended I pickup their 60-1 turbo, that way I can have some room to grow if ever need be. But they reccomended it only with the FMIC and alky.

 

i dont know of anyone running 16psi on stock lq9 internals, if they were it wouldnt last long at all. im running 10-11 psi and im not really willing to go more on this motor. the crank could probably handle more but the rods and pistons are your weak point, there are a few guys who have found this out the hard way.

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I agree with you Chase, however from what I read above ^ a few people are pulling 16 PSI. The only way I know that to be possible is a really fat tune and really cool FI. But I dunno. Chase who does transmissions on the site? I tried PMing zippy but looks like he and Erick are AFK for a bit.

 

-Plan is to order the STS kit, and hold it until I return from overseas. I can install it myself and order some parts to aide the process, as in....transmission goodies. Also need to snatch up a thermostat.

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alot of people do trannies, alot have had luck with flt, i was considering them but i found a local place that is quite reputable. plus they ended being cheaper and are very nice guys (also got me warranty thingy) :D

 

im interested in seeing who has run that amount of boost on a stock lq9 got any links?

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No links... I just don't know about this anymore lol. So many choices... If I was back in the states I could have more time to reasearch but over here...yikes. I really don't feel like attempting a new boost record on the factory rotating assembly. I have the money to spend, but I want it done right. Argh! I will keep reasearching, if anyone comes up with anything please chime in.

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Some people have snapped the input shafts, I haven't yet knock on wood. But definitely do a shift kit, servos, converter, kevlar band, clutches, and a hi-po sprag. Just what I have and had no problems with 10 psi off the radix and a 50 shot every blue moon or so.

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I know a guy who has a 2002 Avalanche 4x4 1500 with a 5.3 running high 12's ...

 

He gets there with stage 2 LPE heads, 9:1 JE's, a Whipple with a +1 pulley, and a 150 wet shot (NX) ... The 1500 AV is about 6,000# wet and he launches in auto trac ...

 

He complains all the time that he wants the 5.3 to let go because he has a built 6.0 Short block ready to go... The 5.3 has surprised the hell out of him and is still living with about 4% leak-down ...

 

I would not worry too much about strength, just watch your cylinder pressures and heat with the turbo, and most certainly have a "chiller" shot setup just in case you need to cool things down ... Funny how nice N2O works with a turbo ...

 

Make sure you have enough retard built-in to your tune to allow for excess boost ... If you plan on keeping the oem CPM rods, you can't afford to detonate ...

 

Not knowing how far you want to mod the bottom end, it's tough to give you any more than this ... IMO the oem bottom end including pistons should hold about 500 +/- flywheel HP as long as you are tuned right ... Add about 100 more HP if you drop compression and go with a forged piston ... Any more than 25 hp +/- of a change in N20 you will have to re-tune ...

 

I would highly recommend adding the N20 to the turbo install ... It will control heat nicely if used conservatively ...

 

I caution also, running a turbo with nos is very different than running a roots style charger with nos ... keep the advice on each seperate when you make your plans ... And find a good tuner with a dyno that has experience with a bit more than bolting on chargers ... IMO

 

11H

Edited by 11H (see edit history)
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Snapping the factory input shaft? Do they make an aftermarket hardened one? Mmm about time to head over to the Transmission Tech forum and research.

 

Of course they do. Check it out. I have one if your interested. Lemme know. It's the shaft with the shell. Got it from PATC. I am not going to use it because if my trans goes again, I am going to purchase a bulletproof trans!!! :devil:

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Snapping the factory input shaft? Do they make an aftermarket hardened one? Mmm about time to head over to the Transmission Tech forum and research.

 

Of course they do. Check it out. I have one if your interested. Lemme know. It's the shaft with the shell. Got it from PATC. I am not going to use it because if my trans goes again, I am going to purchase a bulletproof trans!!! :devil:

 

Question ... Doesn't the M70 (4L70e) have a stronger input shaft and a few of the upgrades you mention over the 4L65e?

 

I reviewed a GM powertrain build sheet and from what it looks like, they are holding back on a couple things as they only list 3 differences over the 4L65e, but also give the M70 the rev capacity of the 4L60e along with the higher TQ/HP rating ... As of now I only see it as an RPO in the Vortec MAX 2006 and TBSS ...

 

seems like you might know ... Thanks

 

11H

Edited by 11H (see edit history)
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