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I can't seem to break into the low 12's. I wondering if the 2.8" pulley is generating to much heat at the end of my runs. My IAT's jump to 150 at my 2-3 shift point.

 

Is this just the nature of the beast running the radix?

 

I was wondering how much a meth kit would help control this rise in IAT.

 

I am also planning on the 90mm TB modification.

 

Looking for suggestions that will help control temps and get me solidly and consistantly into the low 12's.

Edited by vdrumright (see edit history)
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From what I've been told and read, the 2.8 pulley can overspin the Radix past the point of diminishing return. Ie, the MP112 spinning that fast on a 6.0 is lossing efficience at high RPM. Try a 2.9 or 3.0 and add some timing - this is according to a knowledgeable Radix source. Also according to the same source, adding the 90mm TB plus an LPE GT2-3 cam and some tuning to a Radix truck has produced an additional 94hp at the wheels on a 2WD (dyno proven) - which should help you get in those low 12's too. That is the direction I am going at least...

 

EDIT: I just saw in your sig that you already have that cam, so the TB is the next logical step - should help a lot.

Edited by pnblwzd (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have worked my radix over pretty good on the dyno and at the track. Here is what I have found that are not quite the same as other people's results.

 

1. I DYNO'd with the 3.0, 2.9 and 2.8" pulley. Yes, you can add more timing with the larger pulleys, generate less heat and parasitic drag BUT after 20 pulls, the 2.8 netted me the best overall numbers (not peak). I figure that the low end burst from spinning the 112 faster was better for a heavy AWD truck anyway. My TQ curve took a hit due to heat generation after 5K rpm's but the overall area under the curve was higher,...same for HP. I could give a rat's ass on the peak #'s. I want the flattest TQ curve and smoothest HP curve I can,...and down low.

 

2. The 90MM TB was not worth the hype on my application. I was expecting to be able to add several * of overall timeing but could barely squeeze 1* at the upper RPM's. There was NO reduction in IAT's which is most likely why I couldn't add the timing. I posted this a while ago but maybe 10HP is realistic. (again, this is on my set-up and others will debate)

 

3. I have what most will call a baby cam but the 112 loves it. The grind is close to the LPE. There is another guy local to me that did a fat "blower friendly" cam for the radix on an LQ4 and only picked up 30 some to the wheels (still not bad though). I am willing to bet that he could have had similar gains with the mild LPE grind. Just an opinion...

 

4. Meth,...Well there was an increase in fueling from it (which i needed badly) but sadly, the lower IAT's wasn't as drastic as I was looking for. I was able to get to 19* of top timing with a hint of KR. 16* without the meth. I run 18* now and see no KR. My IAT's rarely see over 140 during a dyno pull or a 1/4 mile run in the summer. Typical is 120's

 

I didn't post my newest times yet but just before my TQ converter exploded, I ran a best of 12.2 at 109. I know the truck can rip an 11.99, I just need an open track now. The 2600 PI VIG is tight and feels much stronger off the line. Comparing logs, I am pulling more air in the lower RPMs, not enough to adjust fueling though. My IDC's are well over 100 even with the meth. I have a set of SVO's for the off season.

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3.  I have what most will call a baby cam but the 112 loves it.  The grind is close to the LPE.  There is another guy local to me that did a fat "blower friendly" cam for the radix on an LQ4 and only picked up 30 some to the wheels (still not bad though).  I am willing to bet that he could have had similar gains with the mild LPE grind.  Just an opinion...

 

 

Which LPE cam (or similar) are you using, GT2-3 or ? I would like to do a cam swap and the 90mm conversion, as I've heard that combination works well with a Radix. I was going to use a GT2-3, but after looking at the LPE site I saw a GT-7 cam which is recommended for f/i applications. When I called them to discuss which one to use, they said the GT7 has slightly more duration than the GT2-3, and keeps the exhaust valve closed a tiny bit longer for better f/i performance. They also said they use the GT7 on their f/i customer vehicles, not the 2-3. Any suggestions here?

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