MozeSS523 Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 I just bought the JL 12w3 stealth and a new amp. The amp is 850x1 rms I hooked up the amp to the old subs and every time they hit it was dimming the lights. Then if I change the song the first bass note would be ridiculous then would fade out. I have a 1 farrot capacitor lying around and will be installing it when the new subs show up. Do I need to recharge the capacitor? Can I just hook it up and run the truck for a few minutes to recharge it, instead of taking it to the shop to be recharged? I also still have the original battery do I need to replace that as well? The battery has taken quite a bit of abuse from the old system and I have run it dry a dozen times and have jumped and had no real problems except for the windows struggle to roll up some times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xistent Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 Usually there is a charging card that comes with the cap to charge it. From what I have been told you should not connect it without charging it, it can possible weld itself to the cabling (don't know if that is true). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgawlik1 Posted May 1, 2007 Report Share Posted May 1, 2007 (edited) First, I would recommend that you upgrade the Big3. After that, if your lights still dim, upgrade the battery to an Optima type or even better, upgrade your alternator. That should cure your dimming issues. After rereading your post, I would definitely replace the battery first. Stock batteries are not made to deep cycle (Drain, charge, drain, charge, etc) If you still insist on using the useless cap, then you need to charge it with a resistor (should have been supplied) inline with the cap and battery. It needs to charge up very slowly. Edited May 1, 2007 by MikeG (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 there are alot of myths around caps, first off, you cant weld the wire with them. as for charging it, just hook up the ground cable to it like normal, the on the 12 volt side conect the wire to a light bulb and then + off of the cap to the neg of the light bulb. when the bulb goes out the cap is charger. you could also just pull the fuse under you hood and connect it all like normal and then do the light bulb at the fuse holder. BUT I would do the BIG 3 FIRST!!! and any light bulb will work. just a tail light bulb is what I use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozeSS523 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) Thanks guys! I will lose the stock battery this week, then will try to recharge the cap. I do not have have the resitor anymore. What are the Big3? Why is the cap useless? Edited May 2, 2007 by MozeSS523 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Thanks guys! I will lose the stock battery this week, then will try to recharge the cap. I do not have have the resitor anymore. What are the Big3? Why is the cap useless? Big 3,,,, it is in regaurds to the 1 chargin lead from the alternator directly to the batter, 2 ground from the battery to the chassis, and 3 ground from the battery to the block of the motor. use at LEAST the same size power wire as you amp, but I would recomment 0 gauge.... thats just me tho as for caps, some people believe they work, others dont. there is proof either way on if they do or not. personally I think they work. if you have it, use it. if you dont have one, then do the other things first, but it sounds like you have one. as for the resistor, a 3157 light bulb will work just fine. just dont hold the bulb as it will get hot... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozeSS523 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 I just finished read the sound domain explaination and I still alittle foggy on it. It sounds like I need to forget about the cap and add some ground wires to the chasis and some from the alternator. I should have left it with chris while I was at drake relays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozeSS523 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 (edited) Wow, after researching the Big 3 I have decided that the cap is useless and will let it continue to gather dust. I guess now I am consernd about adding a cable to the engine block. are there any empty bolt holes, or just simple bolts to pull and attach the thrid part of the big 3? Thank you for shedding some light onto this problem. If anyone else is not sure what "The Big 3" is check this site out: undefined Thanks Edited May 2, 2007 by MozeSS523 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgawlik1 Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Just wherever you can find a good solid connection and it will not interfere with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
usabodyguard Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 does anyone have detailed pictures of a silverado big 3? please post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perk03z06 Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 I agree with the caraudio post somewhat ... I've installed stereo systems for years for my buddies, & here's what I think ... The ground straps from the motor to the chassis are more than adequate, unless severely corroded, then replace w/ a new ground wire. Factory ground straps will provide the same amount of resistance as replacement wires (hopefully none), and the engine grounds are not that important unless you have a huge aftermarket alternator generating alot of current. However, grounding the toys you're adding is very important. Making sure they have a dedicated ground that has near 0 resistance is critical. This ensures they receive the proper amount of B+ energy from the battery while not getting too hot from the unnecessary resistance caused by a bad ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 The lightbulb trick is a good one. If you do not want to use a lightbulb, go to Radio Shack and buy a pack of 50 Ohm 1/2 watt resistors (cost less than a $1). Hook up the cap's ground and then use the resistor in-line on the power (+) connection. The charge will take about 30 seconds. The resistor will be HOT. The cap is now charged. For discharge, use the same resistor and connect between the (+) and (-) leads of the cap. Monitor the voltage drop with a volt meter. This will take some time but will be safe. You should always store a cap discharged with the leads connected by some means (I used to use the resistor) to prevent static build up and possible unexpected discharge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Wow, after researching the Big 3 I have decided that the cap is useless and will let it continue to gather dust. I guess now I am consernd about adding a cable to the engine block. are there any empty bolt holes, or just simple bolts to pull and attach the thrid part of the big 3? Thank you for shedding some light onto this problem. If anyone else is not sure what "The Big 3" is check this site out:undefined Thanks I have my batteries grounded right to the alternator mounting bolts. the pull out with a 15MM and seem to work great. take the bolt all the way out and put the ring connector on there and be done with it. as for Drake relays, I was out of town, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozeSS523 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 well here are "the big 3" install pics you ask for. let me know if you want other pics. Also any let me know if you see any problems. I had 4 gauge it is now 0 gauge Old fuse that ran out of the red box what ever its called next to the new fuse. This where I am going to ground the amp it also 0 gauge The above is the cable running from neg bat to the engine chasis ground This is where it leads to the engine ground This is the ground from the neg bat to the chasis this is where it grounds to chasis from neg bat I will have the rest posted later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozeSS523 Posted May 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Which model optima battery should I get? I went to napa and those guys the biggest assholes and told me they can't get optima batteries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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