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quick question about torsion key bolts


SSThunder

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I was just wondering if it's normal for one bolt(passenger side) to be super hard to turn and the other(driver side) to be super easy to turn? I've got to crank the passenger side bolt up a few turns to get my ride height at 33". I'm sitting a bit over 32" right now and alignment is off because I messed with the bolts to lower my truck back down after my front end alignment(shop had to crank these up because my drop was gone after the alignment) :banghead: I've got 2" Belltech drop spindles up front. Also will a bad alignment cause the front to shake?

 

Thanks, Jeremy

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Yes it is typical for one bolt to be harder to move than the other; you're supposed to jack the front of the truck up by the frame to relieve the weight from the wheels before you adjust the torsion bar clocking bolt. And no, adjusting ride height via torsion bar preload will not make the tires want to shake, that's sign of another problem.

 

Mr. P.

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Yes it is typical for one bolt to be harder to move than the other; you're supposed to jack the front of the truck up by the frame to relieve the weight from the wheels before you adjust the torsion bar clocking bolt. And no, adjusting ride height via torsion bar preload will not make the tires want to shake, that's sign of another problem.

 

Mr. P.

 

Thanks P. I didn't know that. I'm thinking the wheels are out of balance. Thanks for the info :thumbs:

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Thanks P. I didn't know that. I'm thinking the wheels are out of balance. Thanks for the info :thumbs:

If you have a vibration around 55-65 mph that is 99.99% wheel out of balance. And 20+" rims are a biatch to balance, I had to take mine to 4 different places until I found someone that could balance them, and then it took so long to do they charged me for the extra time.

 

Mr. P.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I was just wondering if it's normal for one bolt(passenger side) to be super hard to turn and the other(driver side) to be super easy to turn? I've got to crank the passenger side bolt up a few turns to get my ride height at 33". I'm sitting a bit over 32" right now and alignment is off because I messed with the bolts to lower my truck back down after my front end alignment(shop had to crank these up because my drop was gone after the alignment) :banghead: I've got 2" Belltech drop spindles up front. Also will a bad alignment cause the front to shake?

 

Thanks, Jeremy

 

Are you saying that the alignment shop raised your truck after you lowered it when they aligned it? If so, I would take it back and have them re lower it to where you brought it in at and have them realign it.

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If you have a vibration around 55-65 mph that is 99.99% wheel out of balance. And 20+" rims are a biatch to balance, I had to take mine to 4 different places until I found someone that could balance them, and then it took so long to do they charged me for the extra time.

 

Mr. P.

 

im luck that my bro can balance my 20" and future 22"......hes a BMW tech and they most of :jester: the time have 22" wheel

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Do the torsion bars affect the ride quality too? Like if I losened mine would my front end ride smoother over bumps?

 

No, you are only adjusting ride height. The torsion bar still has to twist the same amount for the same bounce and rebound.

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where the hell is this bolt at anyway? i have no idea, never ****ed with an AWD before or 4WD

 

 

Look under your truck and notice the big ass bars running back from the lower control arms. Near the end of each torsion bar, you will see a bolt hanging down. It will be backed out a little bit. Loosen it to lower the truck and tighten it to raise it.

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Do the torsion bars affect the ride quality too? Like if I losened mine would my front end ride smoother over bumps?

 

It will if you don't cut your bumpstops and install the correct height shocks.

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Do the torsion bars affect the ride quality too? Like if I losened mine would my front end ride smoother over bumps?

No, this is a common misconception about torsion bar adjustment; the spring rate does not change (geometry however will change).

 

There are two culprits to ride harshness, (1) riding on the rubber rebound bushings, (2) the shock absorbers are too short and you are riding on the shocks. Shock absorbers too short only happens in extreme lowered applications (more than 2.5" drop. Your issue is probably the rubber rebound bumpers, take a look and you will find that at rest the truck's control arm is sitting on the rubber bumpers - the answer to this is to strategically weaken the ends of the bumpers by drilling them. I've got a good post about it and I think today I will post it again in the how-to section - I *highly* recommend it, read the how-to and get the jist of what I am talking about, then start with drilling 4 holes in the top "ring" of the bumpstops and "tailor" your ride from there.

 

Mr. P. :)

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