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WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON?


eddieo818

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I have had this happen a couple of times, but that is only when I hit some rough pavement just as I am braking. I think it fools the ABS into thinking there is a skid condition. My wife's Isuzu Rodeo is so bad in this regard, I removed the fuse for the ABS circuit. The Rodeos have famously bad ABS according to others reports on the internet.

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If it ever comes down to me, my VHO, and a possible wreck B/C of no brakes, I'd hit the E-brake in that situation!!! U have nothing to lose.... :(

The E brake does nothing when your moving that fast and in truck that heavy. (I've tried it) :banghead:

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ok guys, poor vaccume or low vaccum will make a hard pedal NOT a low pedal (same with a bad booster). If the pedal comes back then it is probably an intermittent problem. IE Master cylinder or abs unit. If the pedal dosn't come back you have a leak, weather it's internal master cylinder, abs or external line hose or caliper. Parking brake is a seperate system so you can rule that out. The only other intermittent you would have to worry about would be if you had a siezed caliper that was holding the brake pads activated. This could boil the brake fluid and inturn your pedal would go to the floor. when it cools down of course your pedal would come back. bottom line, don't **** with brakes unless you have a solid understanding of the system and what your doing. Seek help or do complete research. I see a ton of accidents that could be avoided because of these kind of problems.

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ok guys, poor vaccume or low vaccum will make a hard pedal NOT a low pedal (same with a bad booster). If the pedal comes back then it is probably an intermittent problem. IE Master cylinder or abs unit. If the pedal dosn't come back you have a leak, weather it's internal master cylinder, abs or external line hose or caliper. Parking brake is a seperate system so you can rule that out. The only other intermittent you would have to worry about would be if you had a siezed caliper that was holding the brake pads activated. This could boil the brake fluid and inturn your pedal would go to the floor. when it cools down of course your pedal would come back. bottom line, don't **** with brakes unless you have a solid understanding of the system and what your doing. Seek help or do complete research. I see a ton of accidents that could be avoided because of these kind of problems.

 

 

Yeah, I've have a booster vacuum line break while I was driving my friend's 1983 Caprice and all of the sudden it felt like I was trying to push a cinderblock through mud with my foot... Not fun. From my own experience it sounds the the proportioning valve gave up and is sending too much pressure to the front, or if the brake pads are destroyed it could've been sticky caliper syndrome (although this happening on both sides at the same time is rediculously unusual, hence my thoughts being with the proportioning valve). A stuck or broken valve can put too much pressure to one set (front or back) of brakes and cause excessive heat (ie boiling fluid), which leads to brake failure (pedal to floor, no return). I don't know how the ABS system deals with that, so I've got no thoughts on that situation, but bringing it to a brake specialist is definately the best idea. Brake diagnosis is a very serious thing, not a weekend chore like changing pads...

 

Let us know what it turns out to be!

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UPDATE: okay so i got a call from my service guy

BRAKES:he said that the rear brake needed to be re adjusted and that everything is working

TRANNY: theyre working on it now...

STEERING: THE FAMOUS CLUNK IS "GONE" HE SAYS.

Edited by eddie da chevy guy (see edit history)
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Mr. P where you at???

You're obviously a "man of means" so I'm going to throw this out there - get a set of Baer Alumasport front brakes. Or, get a set of 6-piston front brakes (Baer or Wilwood) and a set of 4-piston brakes on the rear axle. You have too much rolling weight in those rims/tires of yours and the factory braking system on these truck is barely adequate for the job. AFA the actual failure that you had, I disagree I don't think that you have a hydraulic problem (master cyl or ABS) I think that you flat-out exceeded the rotor & pad's ability to shed heat fast enough; normally the brakes would lock-up the tires but your meats grip the road so well that the brakes could not overcome that...

 

Mr. P.

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You're obviously a "man of means" so I'm going to throw this out there - get a set of Baer Alumasport front brakes. Or, get a set of 6-piston front brakes (Baer or Wilwood) and a set of 4-piston brakes on the rear axle. You have too much rolling weight in those rims/tires of yours and the factory braking system on these truck is barely adequate for the job. AFA the actual failure that you had, I disagree I don't think that you have a hydraulic problem (master cyl or ABS) I think that you flat-out exceeded the rotor & pad's ability to shed heat fast enough; normally the brakes would lock-up the tires but your meats grip the road so well that the brakes could not overcome that...

 

Mr. P.

 

definetly next on my list i need a big break set-up im tired of having problems with my brakes! hey atleast i got some lighter wheels! i guess i had that one coming! youve told me before i should've listened then :banghead: . sh!t i should have saved a lil money i spent on the other truck and these new wheels :banghead:

Edited by eddie da chevy guy (see edit history)
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if there is no fluid leaking, it could be the master cylinder.... although usually when those go out you have noooooo brakes at all even if u put your foot on the floor....... Ive had this happen to me on 2 cars....... neither time was fun, but i dident wreck so I guess it wasent that bad

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thats the exact same thing that happened to me when I hit a mini van in front of me, only I was going about 35mph. Had the pedal to the floor and all I was doing is gradually slowing down. The dealer looked at it and couldnt find anything wrong. I put new pads on and so far my brakes have been fine but I keep an eye out. My rear pads for some reason were crap, my fronts looked like new still. Anyone have info on that as well, I thought most breaking was distributed towards the front?

 

Check your rear PADS, thats the only thing we could figure out with my truck, only had 26k on the clock as well and they were shot to shit

 

From what ive seen the rear pads are semi metalic and the fronts are ceramic

ive also had the rears go away, and the fronts like new

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