yttaf Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I've removed everything needed except I can't get these ball joints to come out. The nuts are off them. I've been beating on the passenger side for over an hour & it's starting to resemble hamburger!!! Any suggestions???? & I was following Mr.P's how to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 you are using a ball joint remover right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yttaf Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 his how to never mentioned a ball joint remover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric.dally Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 So did you finally get them off, and if so do you have any tips or tricks that might help someone that is planning on doing this in the future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rivierakid55 Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 (edited) you could use a pickle fork if you have one but its not mandatory. just get a bigger hammer....seriously. Edited February 15, 2008 by rivierakid (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yttaf Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 well i used a pickle fork & finally after 2+ hours I have both spindles out, but it ripped the crap out of the grease boots.... so I guess I'm gonna have to replace all the ball joints now.... does anyone know? do I need to pull the contol arms to replacle the ball joints? They are pressed in correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drclaw5 Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 i believe so but not 100% sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I'm sorry, I didn't see this thread until just now. Yes, use a very large hammer and make sure the bottom ball joint stud is well-supported on a heavy bottle jack. Yes in some cases the mileage just pounds & corrodes the ball joint stud into the control arm and seems to weld it in there and a pickle-fork is the only way to get it apart. Inspect the stud, and as long as there is no damage to the joint inside the ball & socket then it will still work fine if you can put new boots on them. If you have the budget & time and your truck has significant mileage I would go ahead and replace the ball joints, to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yttaf Posted February 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 I'm sorry, I didn't see this thread until just now. Yes, use a very large hammer and make sure the bottom ball joint stud is well-supported on a heavy bottle jack. Yes in some cases the mileage just pounds & corrodes the ball joint stud into the control arm and seems to weld it in there and a pickle-fork is the only way to get it apart. Inspect the stud, and as long as there is no damage to the joint inside the ball & socket then it will still work fine if you can put new boots on them. If you have the budget & time and your truck has significant mileage I would go ahead and replace the ball joints, to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor. Mr. P. well my truck has 53000 miles on it, so I suppose they are probably due. I guess it'll have to sit this way until I have the cash for all new ball joints... on a side note, the bottom ball joint on the drivers side was the worst one. I just bought a new ball joint pickle fork today & the forks are all bent already. That sucker was in there!!! Damn Iowa roads. Glad it's been parked inside during the winter for me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobwrench Posted February 16, 2008 Report Share Posted February 16, 2008 "to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor." As a newbie, probably shouldn't step on any toes, but as a automotive service technician for the past 35 years, and a front suspension/alignment specialist for the past 12 years,,,, THIS IS INSANE!!! The upper balljoints are held on with rivets(originally, replacements come with bolts) while hard to remove, a press has nothing to do with the process. Best home removal would start with drilling smaller than actual diameter holes through all 4 rivets holding BJ in place, then redrill with larger bits untill rivet is almost completely removed. Then cut off lower rivet head with chisel, and chisel/hammer rivet shells out as ball joint is removed. At my shop, all this is done with a heavy duty SnapOn air chisel. Lower balljoints are pressed in, but lower controll arm isnever removed for replacment. a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. If lower controll arm is removed, torsion bars must be completely backed off to relieve tension, then ride height must be reset! Getin' pretty DEEP here!! Respcfully, Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fast4popper Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 "to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor."As a newbie, probably shouldn't step on any toes, but as a automotive service technician for the past 35 years, and a front suspension/alignment specialist for the past 12 years,,,, THIS IS INSANE!!! The upper balljoints are held on with rivets(originally, replacements come with bolts) while hard to remove, a press has nothing to do with the process. Best home removal would start with drilling smaller than actual diameter holes through all 4 rivets holding BJ in place, then redrill with larger bits untill rivet is almost completely removed. Then cut off lower rivet head with chisel, and chisel/hammer rivet shells out as ball joint is removed. At my shop, all this is done with a heavy duty SnapOn air chisel. Lower balljoints are pressed in, but lower controll arm isnever removed for replacment. a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. If lower controll arm is removed, torsion bars must be completely backed off to relieve tension, then ride height must be reset! Getin' pretty DEEP here!! Respcfully, Bob i trust your 35 years of mechanical, but i just took all of mine out on friday night and i didnt see a single rivot. teh popped right out with the c clamp style tool that your mentioned. and soon they will be pressed back in. hmmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yttaf Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 I'm with fast4popper my upper ball joints are not riveted on either, all of mine are pressed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riddle Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 "to do so yes you have to unbolt the control arms from the truck and take to someone with a press and have them remove & replace the joint but the labor to do this is usually pretty minor." As a newbie, probably shouldn't step on any toes, but as a automotive service technician for the past 35 years, and a front suspension/alignment specialist for the past 12 years,,,, THIS IS INSANE!!! The upper balljoints are held on with rivets(originally, replacements come with bolts) while hard to remove, a press has nothing to do with the process. Best home removal would start with drilling smaller than actual diameter holes through all 4 rivets holding BJ in place, then redrill with larger bits untill rivet is almost completely removed. Then cut off lower rivet head with chisel, and chisel/hammer rivet shells out as ball joint is removed. At my shop, all this is done with a heavy duty SnapOn air chisel. Lower balljoints are pressed in, but lower controll arm isnever removed for replacment. a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. If lower controll arm is removed, torsion bars must be completely backed off to relieve tension, then ride height must be reset! Getin' pretty DEEP here!! Respcfully, Bob Bob, I am suprised in 12 years off doing only front ends, you have never actually done a 99 and up silverado? The 88-98 use the bolt on upper ball joints. the newer trucks it is common practice to replace the WHOLE Upper A-ARM. jus for the ball joint. As far as the lower goes, you can easily beat the lower ball joint out with a BFH, but then must use a ball joint press for instalation, make sure to coat ball joint w/ sleeve retainer for added safety. Hope that Help? Respectfully Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 ... a C-clamp style press is used (available as a rental from most parts store chains) to remove and replace. ... Thank you on the tool suggestion - I will certainly remember next time, that would be a real time-saver. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobwrench Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 (edited) Feel a bit foolish here! NO, I guess in the past I HAVEN'T done a '99 or up Chev 1/2 ton 4X4! Went to Moog site and looked 'em up, sure enough,,"K6292" is rivet in part for '94-'99 trucks, "K6540" is press in for '99-'04s. Since wheel alignment should be checked immediately after suspension part replacement, removing upper arm for professional help would be acceptable. Still maintain removal of lower arms would be a nightmare for amateur. "the newer trucks it is common practice to replace the WHOLE Upper A-ARM. jus for the ball joint." Riddler Actually a pretty good idea as this would also supply you with new bushings properly installed also. Respectfully, Bob Edited February 18, 2008 by bobwrench (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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