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Hey guys, i don't know a whole lot about Tranny's so i'm looking for some help. I just had my tranny rebuilt five months ago to the tune of 5 grand by a local trans guru. it has a TCS converter that stalls 1800-2200, a shift kit, billet servos and a few other goodies i cant remember. I was towing my new travel trailer home that weighs about 5000 pounds when i noticed that i had ATF being sprayed all over the under side of my truck and the front of my trailer. I kept topping up the fluid to nurse it home(the lowest it got was 1 litre), it was leaking in between the housing and the engine block so i'm guessing a seal near the TC went? while climbing slight grades the trans temp got as high as 240 which is 40 over the recomended operating temp... Where should i start to fix this problem. i'm guessing I'll have to drop the trans again to source the leak and i'll be ordering a Tru-cool cooler tomorrow. will i be able to get decent temps with that setup or will i have to swap out that TC for something with less of a stall and take a hit on the performance driving without the trailer?

 

 

please tell me i didn"t cook my new trans....haven't even paid for it yet :(

 

Matt

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$5000 to rebuild a tranny? :omg:

 

Wow, it got to 240*, thats not good, around 220* is the breaking point. There is a good chance you cooked it, but you won't know until you start driving it again. AFA your leak is concerned, it is most likely the TC or the front pump seal. Either way your trans will have to be dropped out of the truck in order to fix it. It might be best to have them inspect the unit out while it's down. I hope there is a warranty on that trans, there should be for $5000.......

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i was going to ask if you upgraded your cooler when you swapped the t.c. but you answered that question. sucks to hear but a better tranny cooler is a must after any trans mod especially a t.c.

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wow.... i dont even know where to start on this one....

 

first of all $5k on a 4l65 is absolutely ridiculous! Even with every forged part available, you wouldnt even get close to 3500 for a completely new unit.

 

If youre running a stall between 1800-2200 that is a stock stall... pulling a 5k trailer shouldnt be heating up like it is, especially since we have factory trans coolers inside our radiator... so I am wondering just exactly what this so called guru trans guy did??

 

It sounds like your front seal, $10 part, is bad... it should have been replaced with the rebuild... other than leaking fluid and over heating, what other problems are you experiencing?

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i knew i was gonna catch flack for the huge bill, i took it to the dealership to source the problem, they saw that the 3rd and 4th clutch bands were burnt and wanted 3 grand for a replacement GM tranny. I decided to have it built cuz i knew the stocker wouldnt hold up to the radix very long. so i had this guy build it and he charged me 3300 hundred and then the GM bill came to 1600 for the removal and install. So yeah i got screwed but i was caught with my pants down. Everything here in canada is near double too. Shop rate here is 120 an hour for crying out loud.

 

Do you think that it generated so much heat because the lock up was not engaging?

 

And is it possible to drop the tranny out with just jack stands in my garage cuz i'm pretty sure this guy isnt going to warranty it due to my mods?

 

thanx for the replies

 

Matt

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I was just doing some research with mitchell online and it looks like my temps stayed within a range to prevent failure. I think i just have to solve the leak problem and add a cooler and i should be fine.(fingers crossed)

 

The reason for all the heat created was due to the converter not locking up over 60mph. How can i ensure lock up while cruising at 65-70mph, change the converter or with computer programming?

 

Oh and the Trans guy that built it is away from his shop till the 14th of April so i'm on my own :mad:

 

Matt

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The reason for all the heat created was due to the converter not locking up over 60mph. How can i ensure lock up while cruising at 65-70mph, change the converter or with computer programming?

 

I see that Wester's tunes your truck. Call him for an update and tell him that you want the converter locking earlier when the T/H mode button is engaged.

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Are you saying the transmission was running hot, THEN sprang a leak? Or the other way around, that it was fine until it started leaking and then overheated? Does the truck still drive?

 

Find the source of the leak - if it's the transmission lines then the GM dealer who did the install owes you a tranny; OTOH if a seal has blown then the original builder owes you a transmission. Every transmission that I've seen rebuilt comes with at least a 6-month warranty, and for $3500 I don't care what that guy says, it better have a f'n warranty made of gold. There's a few facts missing here but on the face of it I'd say it had a warranty issue.

 

Is the company that made your converter the TCS up there in Canada, or TCS from Lake Havasu AZ? 2200-rpm is not a lot of stall, if this is at all financially an option :dunno: have the converter sent to the manufacturer and re-stalled for either 2600 or 2800, and make sure that it is a model with a very stout tripple-disc lockup clutch - tell them specifically that you want to tow while in overdrive. That way your trans temps while towing will be far less and you can get enough stall speed to be worth upgrading over a stock converter. I know I am being a little harsher than usual and I'm not trying to rag on you but I would not recommend that kind of converter.

 

Mr. P.

 

OH - and about the Mitchel manual, I am going to advise against what it says. From personal experience with my truck, take the transmission temp that the truck normally runs and when you are over 35-degrees above that you can pretty much count on clutches being glazed. I totally melted down my 3-4 clutch and the transmission temp was only up 25 degrees from stock, that was 180 and according to the book it's ok but when we opened 'er up it was an absolute mess - the best indicator I've found is my nose, if the fluid smells toasted like to the point where your stomach turns then it's going to have to be disassembled.

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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Are you saying the transmission was running hot, THEN sprang a leak? Or the other way around, that it was fine until it started leaking and then overheated? Does the truck still drive?

 

Find the source of the leak - if it's the transmission lines then the GM dealer who did the install owes you a tranny; OTOH if a seal has blown then the original builder owes you a transmission. Every transmission that I've seen rebuilt comes with at least a 6-month warranty, and for $3500 I don't care what that guy says, it better have a f'n warranty made of gold.

 

I agree totally, ESPECIALLY if it leaked first and overheated second. If that's the case, then it doesn't matter what kind of engine mods you have done, it's a faulty seal's fault.

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Hey guys i looked up the converter and this is what it said about it online (The TCS S Series stalls range from 1800 to 2200. These Performance Converters are fantastic for Street Rods & mild Street Strip applications. Converter includes a Billet Input Spline, Brazed Fins and Torrington Bearings). As far as i know it came from Lake Havasu Mr. P. As for the choice of the converter it was outta my hands, he assured me that this was THEE converter to have. :confused:

 

 

The fluid does not smell burnt and is still a nice red color. I also checked my records, it will be 6 months and 6200 miles on April 2nd since the install. If i had to guess i would say that it got warm and then started to leak, but cant be totally sure.

 

Im gonna crawl under her tomorrow and pray that I find a split cooler line but i'm not holding my breath.

 

As for being harsh on me, don't worry about it. I need all the critisism and knowledge i can get cuz this is the first truck i have built up. This is a great site and welcome all your insite, especially if it is cost effective as the new job is hurting the toy budget.. :cry:

 

Matt

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update

 

So i cleaned the whole underside of my truck and found no damaged lines and the leaking has stopped, the truck was driving fine and shifting normally for the last week until today. I ordered a retune from Lyndon that was better suited for towing and TCC lock up and put the computer in this morning, while driving down the highway i got the famous P0894 code. There was also the occasional hard shift, thought maybe it was just the computer relearning the transmission shift habits?

 

Any ideas, i'm thinking the new tune and the trans are not agreeing with each other or the TCC is toast, what is your guys thoughts?

 

Matt

Edited by 454MATT (see edit history)
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