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Finally Upgrading


KJT13

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Hey guys, today I plan on swapping out my stock front brakes to a set of Alumasports that I got from Holty as well as a new set of Earl's lines.

 

I've never bled brakes before so any input would be greatly appreciated. I also got some speed bleeders so an advice on how to bleed using these is highly welcome too. I know I need crush washers but seeing as I have NEVER done a job like this (and this is gonna sound so f'n newbish) but what are they and where do they go?? :dunno:

 

Also, anyone in the Boston area that wants to come by and lend a hand or just point and laugh is welcome... :D

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Keith crush washers should be a copper washer that goes on either side of your brake hose mounting bolt,it basically seals the brake hose to your caliper to prevent leaking(2 per brake line they go on either side of yourhose,so put one on your mounting bolt then put the bolt through the brake line the add your second washer to the bolt then thread the assembly to your caliper.

 

 

As far as the speed bleeders i dont remember but if you have someone step and apply pressure to your brake peddle crack the bleeder and let the air come outat which point your brake pedal will go to the floor when that happens close your bleeder,then pump your brake pedal,again appy pressure to the brakes and hold the pedal while cracking your bleeder and ckeep doing till you see no more air in your system or have a good pedal but nyour best be would be a pressure bleeder from a garage.

Edited by kissfans03ss (see edit history)
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They make a fast bleed fitting for the brake caliper. You swap out your factory bleed screws. It has a check ball in it so you can just loosen it a little. Press the brake pedal to the floor about 3-6 times. MAKE SURE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER STAYS FULL! then close the screw and move to the next one. Always start at the brake furthest from the master and work your way closer.

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They make a fast bleed fitting for the brake caliper. You swap out your factory bleed screws. It has a check ball in it so you can just loosen it a little. Press the brake pedal to the floor about 3-6 times. MAKE SURE YOUR MASTER CYLINDER STAYS FULL! then close the screw and move to the next one. Always start at the brake furthest from the master and work your way closer.

 

Can 1 person do this or do you need help? Where do you get the fast bleed fitting for the brake caliper? Last question lol. Do you have to bleed all 4 if you only worked on one wheel/caliper?

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Can 1 person do this or do you need help? Where do you get the fast bleed fitting for the brake caliper? Last question lol. Do you have to bleed all 4 if you only worked on one wheel/caliper?

 

 

from what I was told, they are designed to be a one-man job. I ordered mine with my steel lines.

 

and yes, once you introduce air into the system, you need to bleed all 4. at least that's my understanding. start at the right rear, move to the left rear, then right front, then left front.

Edited by KJT13 (see edit history)
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from what I was told, they are designed to be a one-man job. I ordered mine with my steel lines.

 

and yes, once you introduce air into the system, you need to bleed all 4. at least that's my understanding. start at the right rear, move to the left rear, then right front, then left front.

 

Do any auto parts shops carry these speed bleeders?

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Years ago, before I had my SS, I had another chevy silverado and I put those on my truck. I bought them at Chief Auto when they were still out here in socal...I'd try pep boys or auto zone.

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Speed-bleeders are a godsend; not only does it make brake bleeding a one-man job, but you will positively get the air out far better than the two-man system.

 

Jeremey - if all you did was take the banjo fitting loose from the caliper then you only need to bleed that one caliper PROVIDED the master cylinder did not run dry. If you run the master cylinder dry for whatever reason then you have to bleed the entire brake system.

 

Mr. P.

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Speed-bleeders are a godsend; not only does it make brake bleeding a one-man job, but you will positively get the air out far better than the two-man system.

 

Jeremey - if all you did was take the banjo fitting loose from the caliper then you only need to bleed that one caliper PROVIDED the master cylinder did not run dry. If you run the master cylinder dry for whatever reason then you have to bleed the entire brake system.

 

Mr. P.

 

when the new caliper gets here I'll bleed that side. I did put a speed bleeder in the rear passenger side caliper and bleed it. Those speed bleeders work great and are easy to use.

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keith, give me a buzz if you have any questions.

 

will do! I didn't get to do it last weekend and this weekend is the Cape Rally so it looks like next weekend I hope!!!

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