RevolutionRaceWorks Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 (edited) Yep belive it or not the truck is still here.. and so am I after a long hiatus. I am working alot of hours lately barely have time to get anything done with buying the house and work.. yeah.. Anywho. The first Procharger setup went to the dyno not the track. Still having some issues with the fab and tuning learning more with every change. I made some critical finds with the maf transition when moving big air. Back when we first got the truck running with the new setup l92's ect.. it was still December last year. In the Midwest.. lovely IAT's lovely air closer to sea level.. las vegas.. not so much. I have found that with the maf tuning it is very important that the maf transition be as straight and clear as possible when under boost. The 4 inch to 3 inch silcone reducers.. even the procharger ones.. Too short not adequate the airflow is tumbling going into the maf causing alot of rich lean issues out here with the different air quality. I am not in any way shape or form going to speed density. The truth is I drive the living hell out of my truck. It has been as far east as philly and out here to LV. I put alot of miles on it and enjoy every minute doing it. Because I change temprarture and altitude so much the maf is essential to the truck having great street manners. I have heard time and time again that if I just go speed density this will all go away. I would much rather not. The truck fails into speed density when the maf gets maxed out anyways. Back in the mid west with some of the original testing we were maxing the maf well before 4k rpm. So the cat is out of the bag the flogging is underway. New design new fab underway. Same idea for right now anyways. Forged 370 8.8:1 comp Stock L92's w 918 springs Cam none of your buisness spec. L92 style truck intake 90mm car throttle body. 60lph motrons Belanger headers Stock stainless GM head pipes Stock GM cats Corsa touring cat back Zippybuilt tranny Trailblazer stall Procharger D1sc 4.1 pulley on dyno Custom mount and plumbing Race bypass valve 6 psi of boost 3 core intercooler GMPP 20" wheels and 285's The truck is heavy with the subs and amps but again. I drive the crap out of it. No showboat. 495 rwhp 486 tq 96 deg in the dyno room 96 deg Iat's on a dynojet mind you this was only making 5-6 psi because of the bigger pulley and lower compression new shortblock. The air fuel was pig rich at 10:1 the whole pull. Again due to maf probs.. I am still working out the kinks. But what's in the works? New bigger intercooler. Diffrent location. Diffrent piping. I have done all the calc's for the lowest possible friction loss. New fittings to make the maf probs go away. And about 18 psi and maybe some meth. So who wants to go fast? Special thanks to Zippy for helping to get me where I am right now with the tuning. This has been a huge learning curve with the new heads and boost. I will scan some dyno graphs this afternoon. Edited May 6, 2008 by RevolutionRaceWorks (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WI_Dave Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 I was just wondering if you still came around here. Sounds like you've made the truck even more impressive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolutionRaceWorks Posted May 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 I was just wondering if you still came around here. Sounds like you've made the truck even more impressive Might actually move back to Il kina entertaining some things right now job offers and whatnot. It's renting out my house here that poses the problem. I can't sell right now the market is hit. I will be back this summer for PDB's Chad's wedding and I am gonna try and make the zippy event as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 Might actually move back to Il kina entertaining some things right now job offers and whatnot. It's renting out my house here that poses the problem. I can't sell right now the market is hit. I will be back this summer for PDB's Chad's wedding and I am gonna try and make the zippy event as well. i don't blame ya....vegas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 ...96 deg Iat's on a dynojet ... Wow my IATs aren't that low and I'm stock N/A... Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 Who the hell is this revraceworks guy???? Good to see you back on here. So you're saying I should get rid of the 3" to 4"coupler before the maf? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolutionRaceWorks Posted May 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 Who the hell is this revraceworks guy???? Good to see you back on here. So you're saying I should get rid of the 3" to 4"coupler before the maf? Yes get yourself a 4" elbow and coupling to go from the leaving side of the maf to the TB maintain the 4" dia going from the maf to the TB as long as you can. Then I am going to throw up a hyperlink to burns stainless.. go with one of their 3" transitions they are about 40 bucks but if you can weld stainless.. add on a 2 inch peice of 3" pipe to the 3" side with a bead roll.. to keep your hose on from the intercooler to the transition then do the same for the 4 inch side. I did the math overall you will be just short of 10" long with the extra 4 inches added to the ends of the transition.. but.. this straightens out the air really well for the transition from your 3" intercooler pipe to the MAF http://www.burnsstainless.com/cgi-bin/orde...00-400-16-304-L make sure you get 304 stainless that you make the collars out of or pipe.. whatever you can find and then use 309 stainless filler rod that will assure you dont have any corrosion issues with the weld after it is all done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaotik1 Posted May 6, 2008 Report Share Posted May 6, 2008 Welcome back buddy! Trucks got some good base numbers now, can't wait to see how they pan out when you are done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonj87 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) hey frank!!! you missed the transmission fiasco i went thru!!! LOL cant wait to see you back around the chi town area.. Edited May 7, 2008 by Bonj87 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 whats up Frank! glad you still come by your truck is bad. So its finally out of Zippy's garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsniper3006 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 FRANK!!!! how the hell have you been, it's been to long. Glad to hear the truck is up and running and putting down some good numbers on the dyno. Sure would be nice if you moved back! Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolutionRaceWorks Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Thanks for all the replies guys. It is lookin like I might be coming back... Ill never go fast at 2270 feet above sea level haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 (edited) Yes get yourself a 4" elbow and coupling to go from the leaving side of the maf to the TB maintain the 4" dia going from the maf to the TB as long as you can. Then I am going to throw up a hyperlink to burns stainless.. go with one of their 3" transitions they are about 40 bucks but if you can weld stainless.. add on a 2 inch peice of 3" pipe to the 3" side with a bead roll.. to keep your hose on from the intercooler to the transition then do the same for the 4 inch side. I did the math overall you will be just short of 10" long with the extra 4 inches added to the ends of the transition.. but.. this straightens out the air really well for the transition from your 3" intercooler pipe to the MAF http://www.burnsstainless.com/cgi-bin/orde...00-400-16-304-L make sure you get 304 stainless that you make the collars out of or pipe.. whatever you can find and then use 309 stainless filler rod that will assure you dont have any corrosion issues with the weld after it is all done Do you mean like this Now I need that transition from burns before the maf and I should be good. You'll notice this pic is from during he mock up and has no clamps,it looks a wee bit different now,with 304 stainless all throughout. Edited May 7, 2008 by allballz57 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolutionRaceWorks Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Do you mean like this Now I need that transition from burns before the maf and I should be good. You'll notice this pic is from during he mock up and has no clamps,it looks a wee bit different now,with 304 stainless all throughout. Looks good yep get yourself that transition and you are off and running. I don't know how it looks pre intercooler but if you reclock the discharge of the blower about 30 deg up you can eliminate one bend right at the discharge of the blower. That alone will help you build boost faster. I make 6 psi on a rev in park with the current setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allballz57 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Looks good yep get yourself that transition and you are off and running. I don't know how it looks pre intercooler but if you reclock the discharge of the blower about 30 deg up you can eliminate one bend right at the discharge of the blower. That alone will help you build boost faster. I make 6 psi on a rev in park with the current setup cool,I gotta order that pipe now.Thanks frank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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