20_blkss_04 Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 hey guys first off if this is in the wrong place feel free to move it mods!! thanks on too my question....right now i got a stock drivetrain 4.3 silverado......its an 04 rcsb.....i rlly want to make it posi....right now i only think the drivers side wheel spins when it does a minor burnout lol.....can anyone school me on how i could get posi i dont know much at all when it come s to the drivetrain im more of an exterior and interior guy....any help would be greatly aprceiated thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WODY'S GIRL Posted August 26, 2008 Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 "anyone good with rear ends????" too easy....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted August 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2008 lol oooook lets be mature about my mistake in words here!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 I am not sure what gear ratio is in the V6 models or the ring gear size, but you need to find a locking differential for a GM 10 bolt rear end.......your dealers parts counter can probably help you figure out what your truck came equipped with, give them the last 8 of your Vin # and they can pull up your original build info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted August 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 yea i used to work at a dealership i can get the info ....but wat i was wondering is can you take my rearend apart and buy new parts to make it woork....or i was thinkin if i bough an ss rearend and just swaped the insides maybe??? not the hole thing just gears......im not sure about any of this though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rausche Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 yea i used to work at a dealership i can get the info ....but wat i was wondering is can you take my rearend apart and buy new parts to make it woork....or i was thinkin if i bough an ss rearend and just swaped the insides maybe??? not the hole thing just gears......im not sure about any of this though? You would be MUCH better off buying a locker for your current rear-end. I came up with this after about 20 seconds of searching: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...k=KeywordSearch It is not worth buying another rear-end and then having to pull two apart, just have your current one modded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted August 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 You would be MUCH better off buying a locker for your current rear-end. I came up with this after about 20 seconds of searching: http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.as...k=KeywordSearch It is not worth buying another rear-end and then having to pull two apart, just have your current one modded. so if i bought one of those and did a engine tranny swap would my rear end be ok??? i was looking into a 5.3 with heads cam and intake..full exhaust.maybe a 4l80e from flt...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 so if i bought one of those and did a engine tranny swap would my rear end be ok??? i was looking into a 5.3 with heads cam and intake..full exhaust.maybe a 4l80e from flt...... just as long as you beef the 10 bolt up you should be fine.....many full size GM trucks with 4.8 and 5.3s have a 10 bolt rear.......hell even the AWD SSSs have a 10 bolt rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rausche Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 so if i bought one of those and did a engine tranny swap would my rear end be ok??? i was looking into a 5.3 with heads cam and intake..full exhaust.maybe a 4l80e from flt...... If you change transmissions you'll be getting yourself into another little mess (you'll need a different drive shaft, mounts, etc, tuning, etc). Engine swap: Go for it! Upgrade the rear end with a nice locker or LSD or Posi unit and you'll be fine; Unless you're looking for power numbers above say... 600hp, then I would swap to the the larger rear end (and only then if I blew up the stocker first). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted August 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 no way man ......600 isnt quite as far as i wanted to go ....maybe just 400-450.....not looking for a 10 second truck!! lol just some fun i know my drive shafter wont be an easy fix but im aware of that....i know my tranny now is a pos compared to something from FLT so i wanted to upgrade to one of theirs! they do pretty good as far as priceing and support and quality so....but i wont be doing any thing till i get a hold of my motor ill be looking for one as sooooon as i get the rest of my cladding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kisthisSS Posted August 27, 2008 Report Share Posted August 27, 2008 First off are you going to be installing the posi yourself? I'm just asking because it's not as simple as just pulling out your open carrier and dropping in a new LSD, locker, or posi unit. There is quite a bit involved. You have pinion preload settings controlled via a crush sleave, a pinion depth setting thats changed by adding or removing different shim thicknesses between the pinion bearing and pinion gear head, and back lash setting also controlled by different size shims on both sides of the carrier to move the ring gear towards or away from the pinion gear. You also have to use a gear markning compound on the ring gear to make sure the spot where the pinion and ring gear mesh is centered on both drive and coast side of the ring gear. If it's not then you have to take it all back apart and make adjustments, reinstall and recheck. All of these settings have to be set right for the differential to opperate smoothly, not make noise, and run cool. If you want to do most of the work yourself it would be easier to just by a used rearend that has the standard Eaton G80 (gov-lock as most refer to it as) in it already and just swap the whole assembley over or take it to a professional to have a posi installed. If I were you I would get a Detroit Tru-Track. It's a limited slip but uses worm gears that torque against eachother to distribute power to both wheels. Other limited slips use clutches that can wear out over time. On the Tru-Track there is nothing to wear out. Have it installed with a set of 4.10 gears new bearings and seals and call it good. A locker is not very street friendly. It locks both tires together solid so when you go around corners it bucks the vehicle and sqwaks your tires. It will also wear your tires faster and sometimes makes popping and clunking noises when it inguages and disinguages. That tends to scare people when it happens even though nothing is wrong that's just the nature of lockers. As far as a 4l80 IMO that is a little beefy for your application. You will have to change mounts crossmember and drive shaft lengths for front and rear if its a 4x4. It could wind up being more of a hastle than it's worth. You can have your 4l60 built or buy a built one that will fit nice with no problems. Save the money for other mods. Hope that helps you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted August 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 First off are you going to be installing the posi yourself? I'm just asking because it's not as simple as just pulling out your open carrier and dropping in a new LSD, locker, or posi unit. There is quite a bit involved. You have pinion preload settings controlled via a crush sleave, a pinion depth setting thats changed by adding or removing different shim thicknesses between the pinion bearing and pinion gear head, and back lash setting also controlled by different size shims on both sides of the carrier to move the ring gear towards or away from the pinion gear. You also have to use a gear markning compound on the ring gear to make sure the spot where the pinion and ring gear mesh is centered on both drive and coast side of the ring gear. If it's not then you have to take it all back apart and make adjustments, reinstall and recheck. All of these settings have to be set right for the differential to opperate smoothly, not make noise, and run cool. If you want to do most of the work yourself it would be easier to just by a used rearend that has the standard Eaton G80 (gov-lock as most refer to it as) in it already and just swap the whole assembley over or take it to a professional to have a posi installed. If I were you I would get a Detroit Tru-Track. It's a limited slip but uses worm gears that torque against eachother to distribute power to both wheels. Other limited slips use clutches that can wear out over time. On the Tru-Track there is nothing to wear out. Have it installed with a set of 4.10 gears new bearings and seals and call it good. A locker is not very street friendly. It locks both tires together solid so when you go around corners it bucks the vehicle and sqwaks your tires. It will also wear your tires faster and sometimes makes popping and clunking noises when it inguages and disinguages. That tends to scare people when it happens even though nothing is wrong that's just the nature of lockers. As far as a 4l80 IMO that is a little beefy for your application. You will have to change mounts crossmember and drive shaft lengths for front and rear if its a 4x4. It could wind up being more of a hastle than it's worth. You can have your 4l60 built or buy a built one that will fit nice with no problems. Save the money for other mods. Hope that helps you wow thanks alot man!!! i was planning on sending down the street to a performance shop! he knows how to do anykind of work....ive herd good things about the detroit tru trac! ill have to find some more info on em somewhere.....could i buy it myself and have my shop install it??? what do they run??? and as for the tranny i thought it was alil much but i had herd from a few user on ls1truck.com that they wish they didnt get the 4l60 and went with the 80. they sed its not enough for the engine.....i would rather a built 60 over the 80 anyday!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kisthisSS Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 wow thanks alot man!!! i was planning on sending down the street to a performance shop! he knows how to do anykind of work....ive herd good things about the detroit tru trac! ill have to find some more info on em somewhere.....could i buy it myself and have my shop install it??? what do they run??? and as for the tranny i thought it was alil much but i had herd from a few user on ls1truck.com that they wish they didnt get the 4l60 and went with the 80. they sed its not enough for the engine.....i would rather a built 60 over the 80 anyday!!! Ya you can purchase the tru-track yourself and have a shop install it (it will probably be cheaper cause if the shop orders it they will want to mark up the price of it to make a little money ). You can purchase it just about anywhere really, but I really like Randy's Ring and Pinion (www.ringpinion.com or call them 866-631-0196) they usually have the best prices and great customer service. You can get gear sets, bearings, seals, and everything else you need from them. Keep in mind if you're truck is a 4x4 and you want to change from your existing gear ratio you have to get a gear set for front and rear diffs. The front and rear ratio's must match or bad things happen when you go to put it in 4wd. Depending on how many miles you have on your existing rear end you might want to look into getting a master install kit along with the tru-track. The kit comes with pinion shims, carrier shims, pinion bearings, pinion seal, crush sleave, carrier bearings, axle seals, diff cover gasket, and new ring gear bolts. Everything will have to be taken appart so you might as well put new parts back in. I'm not sure what the problems the guys on LS1truck.com were having with thier 60's but if your only looking to be in the 400-450hp range a nicely built 60 will do just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
20_blkss_04 Posted September 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 nice nice!!! thanks alot man this info is great!!! thats what i was hoping to do is ( rebiuld ) mine with all new stuff not buy one all done up!!! yea i ve been talking to a bunch of peeple and i think a nicley biult 60 is def gonna be it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kisthisSS Posted September 2, 2008 Report Share Posted September 2, 2008 nice nice!!! thanks alot man this info is great!!! thats what i was hoping to do is ( rebiuld ) mine with all new stuff not buy one all done up!!! yea i ve been talking to a bunch of peeple and i think a nicley biult 60 is def gonna be it..... Glad to help man, good luck with the build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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