slyder7 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 OK so i want to upgrade if i need it.... what would you do for the rear? and what would you do for the front? and why? Keep in mind I would appreciate some advice on the AWD setups thanks guys Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilmarv1117 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) Sorry I cannot help ya with this...however im also interested in what opinions are.... Edited February 11, 2009 by lilmarv1117 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I don't believe there is much you can do to the front diff, but the rear can be beefed up with a Detroit TrueTrac(get rid of the Eaton G80), ARP bearing cap studs, and a TA Performance bearing girdle/cover....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyder7 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 (edited) As i have been reading this is what i found Mechanical Locking Differential The Eaton mechanical locking differential was the first to be offered as an option to pickup drivers and today it is known around the world simply by the GM option code G80. This automatic unit, available as standard and optional equipment for rear drive and 4-wheel drive vehicles, makes traction problems a thing of the past. The Locker makes towing large boats and campers a breeze. Be sure to ask your dealer if your vehicle has an Eaton locking differential. why would i get a tru trac over and above the The Eaton Posi LSD is the perfect way to control traction in street rods, light duty pickups and all types of tarmac running race cars.? http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServ...tials/index.htm here is the web site I am not sure what the best for the rear diff would be... Edited February 11, 2009 by slyder7 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I will break it down for you.... Stock Eaton G80 - POS plain and simple, many have blown up and taken the entire ring/pinion and rear end housing out with them. I was fortunate to have caught mine early before it self destructed. Eaton LSD - better then the G80, but still has mechanical clutches that can wear out. Eaton Detroit TrueTrac - no mechanical clutches to wear out, operates the way it's supposed to when it's supposed too, worth every penny IMO. The run down of the TrueTrac....... The Detroit Truetrac was the first helical gear differential ever introduced into the automotive aftermarket as an Eaton brand. It remains the leading helical gear-type limited slip differential in the industry. Detroit Truetrac's proven helical gear design eliminates the need for wearable parts, resulting in maintenance free traction recognized not only for its toughness, but its smooth and quiet operation as well. Proven design, low cost and effective performance all make the Detroit Truetrac limited slip differential the ideal choice for a wide variety of vehicle applications. No maintenance - Just Traction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVECS2 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 So I have a QS SD which runs a D60 in the rear. I upgraded from the Traclok to a Detroit True Trac. It was definetly a nice piece weighed twice what the stocker did. Lots of metal! It is a good diff. Was it worth the 800 dollar upgrade (bearings and all) I am not completely convinced. They say queit operation, but upon start up when it is could you can hear the helicals faintly rattling around. Once it is warm this goes away. On long sweeping corners there can be some slight vibrations. I figure when it is on the verge of lock up this happens. On tight turn (QS Turns) it was giving a faint chirp, but that seems to have subsidded. Control in the snow in rain is a little better and noticeable, but not 800 dollars better. Mind you my truck is Supercharged so it is getting a work out and traction counts. I never really had any traction or control problems to start with though. It is known amoung many SD QS owners that the rear ends can be noisy. I unfortunatel had one of these trucks for about 90K before I switched to the Truc Trac. Only reason I decided to do it was because I had a tune on the transmission that ended up roasting the pinion bearing and seal. It looks like a couple other bearing wer on ther way also. I am not sure GM set it up the greatest. As for the front, there are not any options I know of for the 8.25. I have heard of some limited slips available from Yukon for the 9.25 that came in 3/4 ton trucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 For the front, just keep good fluid in it and replace bearings every so often. For the rear if you insisted on replacing something I'd put a Tru-Trac in it, but due to the AWD you really shouldn't need to worry about the stock diff breaking until you are really sticking the power to it. You may want to put a good cover on the rear with a stud girdle though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyder7 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 can i replace the bearings in the front myself? also the rear has not really given me any noise issues and when they changed the fluid there were no shavings, however i need to pull the axels to replace the rusted out dust sheilds for the brakes and i have noticed that i do get one tire spinning at times which would indicate the LS is not kicking in and applying power to the other wheel... does anyone have a good place to get the ARP studs and the TA Performance bearing girdle/cover....... I have also read that getting some ARP bolts for the gridle would be a better choice then the ones that come with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 does anyone have a good place to get the ARP studs and the TA Performance bearing girdle/cover....... I have also read that getting some ARP bolts for the gridle would be a better choice then the ones that come with it. The easiest way is to get it direct from TA Performance...... http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA%5F1807 When you call, them to throw the ARP bearing cap stud kit in, it only costs like $20. You will need to see if you have metric hardware on your rear diff, you can find out by checking for an "M" on the rear cover bolt heads. Most late model GM trucks have metric, make sure to tell them that you need metric hardware when ordering. The cover bolts they send are fine..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyder7 Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Thank you very much....I have just read on another post that the cover bolts rust after awhile have you had this problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Thank you very much....I have just read on another post that the cover bolts rust after awhile have you had this problem. Yeah mine are a little rusty, but it doesn't bother me, you can hardly notice it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70chevy03ss Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 can i replace the bearings in the front myself? also the rear has not really given me any noise issues and when they changed the fluid there were no shavings, however i need to pull the axels to replace the rusted out dust sheilds for the brakes and i have noticed that i do get one tire spinning at times which would indicate the LS is not kicking in and applying power to the other wheel... does anyone have a good place to get the ARP studs and the TA Performance bearing girdle/cover....... I have also read that getting some ARP bolts for the gridle would be a better choice then the ones that come with it. front bearings are easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slyder7 Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I wonder is there a how to for the front bearings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benjaminh2 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I wonder is there a how to for the front bearings? if you havn't set preload and backlash on a ring and pinion before then don't tackle the front bearings. the only bearings serviceable with the front diff still in the vehicle are the axle bearings, witch typically never go bad. the bearings that go bad in these diffs are the carrier and pinion bearings, to service these the front diff must be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted February 13, 2009 Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 front bearings are easy Easy... Doing carrier and pinion bearings in an IFS type differential are alot of work. It's not something I score as easy. Easy is doing an oil change, not pulling the front diff down, seperating the case halfs, changing bearings, and checking the pre-load and backlash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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