Comp Cams Tensioner

[shadowsniper3006]

Hey guys,

I had a couple of guys ask how i did the reichard racing pulleys on my truck and ask about the comp cams tensioner and the EWP wiring so since its all in the same area i thought i'd cover it with a couple pics in one post.

here is it what it looks like on a very dirty truck, even the oxided cap screws are starting to rust from the salt, but never worried about looks as much as speed.

 

You can also see what the belt spacing looks like on the EWP with the custom aluminum spacers made at .250 thick. If you look closely at the pic that shows the side of the tensioner you can also see the silver spacer behind the EWP.

 

The idler pulley is smooth and is the 10 rib pulley because he sent me the wrong one. It ends up working out good, because the offset is not as critical this way.

 

The tensioner pulley is the 6 rib pulley and works pretty good on the comp cams tensioner. I'm sure it would work on a stock one to.

 

The part numbers for the Comp Cams tensioner is cc54025 i paid 148.00

Reichard racing did not list a part number but my invoice says 90 mm idler 79.50 and ribbed idler $69.50

 

http://www.reichardracing.com/pulleys.php

 

they offer 100mm pulleys as well which should be good for the FI guys that have trouble with belt slip. Yes they are for a ford and yes there is some maching required to make them work, at least how i did it. one side of the pulley needs to be clearanced and there is also some moddifing to get them to mount up right using the bearing spacers.

 

the comp cams tensioner is great for getting rid of the belt bounce i had at idle, and also probably good for the FI guys who keep breaking the stock one. I measured the stock tensioner with a torque wrench and it moved at 100 inch pounds so i set the comp cams tensioner using the 100 inch pounds.

 

I'll get to the EWP wiring in a couple of days, but i did what Krambo said in his build thread along with the following the relay instructions in the ls1 how to.