budhayes3 Posted March 9, 2009 Report Share Posted March 9, 2009 I will be doing my trans/converter on my back (when I can afford the trans lol) and my biggest concern is the Y-pipe, as it is a slip fit assembly. Luckily it is secured with band clamps, so there shouldn't be any dimpled metal, but I still feel that it is going to be a pita to pull apart. I have a transmission adapter for my floor jack that should come in handy. I'm going to be doing this by myself also, so I'm going to have to get creative with a couple of things, especially the transfer case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmuir Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Thanks for all the replies guys, I found this link to torque converter measurements and the basic install instructions. Anything else I will need for this install? http://www.silveradoss.com/forums/index.ph...nverter+install Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Make sure to use new aftermarket bolts to hold the TCS converter to the flexplate - my TCS converter required shorter than stock bolts or else it ruins the converter pump; I believe TCS includes them with the converter but make sure. Spray PB Blaster (or similar, even WD40) on the exhaust hardware (nuts) every night for 3-4 nights while the exhaust is cooling so the heat and contracting metal draw the penetrating oil into the threads and you will be able to crack loose the exhaust hardware no problem; this is the hardest job is loosening the factory manifold (collector) flange hardware but with using penetrating oil it will come right apart. Suggest you have a dental pick tool to remove the eclips from the tranny cooler line fittings but you can also fight them out with a small flat blade screwdriver. To get the connectors loose from the neutral safety switch on the driver's side of the transmission there is a trick - inside the connector it is filled with glue/resin, and you have to heat the connectors with a heat gun or cig lighter to soften the glue inside, then the two weatherpack connectors will pull out, until then they won't come loose even if you pull with pliers. Make sure the converter is COMPLETELY seated into the bellhousing/pump, in the bellhousing at least 1" below "flush". When tightening the converter bolts, tighten the bolts incrementally make AT LEAST 3 passes to assure the converter is not crooked, it has to be DEAD STRAIGHT to within a couple thousandths of an inch or you will wipe out the transmission pump bearing and the converter hub; make sure it is tightened evenly and dead straight, total PITA to do it in multiple passes I know but it's gotta be done. Another gotcha, make sure the "shoulders" of the alignment dowels are at least 1/4" long (do not include the measurement of the taper). Can't think of much else at the moment but I'm sure there's more... Mr. P. Edited March 11, 2009 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmuir Posted March 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 Awesome, thanks a lot Mr. P. I just did my headers and Y pipe so the exhaust shouldn't be bad at all. I do have a dental pic too, so that should make the clip job a little easier. When you say shoulders of the alignment dowel, which dowels are you refering too? I'll be sure to make sure the converter is seated and I use the the shorter bolts, I really don't want to ruin this investment by doing something wrong that I should have known before I started. I'm going to keep searching though some threads, but this seems pretty straight forward, as I have done a few clutches and complete engine rebuilds. The only thing I really need to focus on is how the converter goes in as I never have really worked on an automatic before I had this truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packjh Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 wow im slow at changing my trans... my first time changing it was my first trans swap period took me 14 hrs. i had somebody go thru it with me and show me everything step by step so now its drilled into my mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 (edited) Awesome, thanks a lot Mr. P. I just did my headers and Y pipe so the exhaust shouldn't be bad at all. I do have a dental pic too, so that should make the clip job a little easier. When you say shoulders of the alignment dowel, which dowels are you refering too? I'll be sure to make sure the converter is seated and I use the the shorter bolts, I really don't want to ruin this investment by doing something wrong that I should have known before I started. I'm going to keep searching though some threads, but this seems pretty straight forward, as I have done a few clutches and complete engine rebuilds. The only thing I really need to focus on is how the converter goes in as I never have really worked on an automatic before I had this truck! I am referring to the bellhousing alignment dowels, after you pull the trans down you will see two metal studs protruding from the back of the engine block that align everything when you reassemble. With the level of experience you describe you'll do AOK, stabbing the converter in the 4L60 is a biatch (compared to stabbing one in a TH350 or Ford C4 etc), my first time with the 4L60 it took me over 1/2-hr to stab the converter into the pump Tip I found that worked, was to take a Sharpie marker and draw a couple 'sight lines' on the outside diameter of the converter where the pump tangs are cut in the hub, so as you are monkeying with it you still have an idea how the hub tangs are oriented; before starting the ritual peer down into the pump and observe how the 2 large pump tangs are oriented. Before you stab the converter into the pump, smear a thin layer of axle grease onto the converter hub, it will serve as start-up lubrication for the rubber seal, or else at startup the spinning converter hub will melt (ruin) the rubber seal. Remember, generous lubrication ensures silent running! Couple other things I remembered: DON'T forget the dipstick tube on reassembly, it goes in place FIRST, if you get the tranny in the truck and bolted in place and THEN discover you forgot to install the dipstick tube you will find there is no room to snake it into place and you will either have to bend the dipstick tube into a pretzel to snake it down the firewall or you will have to pull the tranny back down, install the dipstick tube, then reinstall tranny... On the AWD trucks I've never been able to reach the top bellhousing bolt from under the truck, I have to throw an old shitter blanket atop the motor, lay on the engine and reach my hand down the pass side of the intake with a box-end wrench and grope my way to the top bellhousing bolt and undo-it; you want to do this first thing, because when the engine leans back after you remove the crossmember there will be no room for your hand. The 2WD trucks don't have this issue. You will need lots of long ratchet/socket extensions, like a 1.5-ft and 3-ft are invaluable. So are air tools on this job if you have them. Mr. P. Edited March 11, 2009 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonickoolten Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 dang wish some of u ppl were close by............ lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 To get the connectors loose from the neutral safety switch on the driver's side of the transmission there is a trick - inside the connector it is filled with glue/resin, and you have to heat the connectors with a heat gun or cig lighter to soften the glue inside, then the two weatherpack connectors will pull out, until then they won't come loose even if you pull with pliers. I don't even bother with pulling the connectors here. There are two bolts that hold on the entire plate. I use an open ended wrench and just remove them. I think they are a 10mm bolt. You kind of have to gently move the wires aside when doing this. DON'T forget the dipstick tube on reassembly, it goes in place FIRST, if you get the tranny in the truck and bolted in place and THEN discover you forgot to install the dipstick tube you will find there is no room to snake it into place and you will either have to bend the dipstick tube into a pretzel to snake it down the firewall or you will have to pull the tranny back down, install the dipstick tube, then reinstall tranny... Good tip. I zip-tie my dipstick tube up before installing the tranny. DON'T forget or you will be cursing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndySilveradoSS Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 so it sounds like we should have a gtg for tranny's with the guys who have done this swap?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted March 11, 2009 Report Share Posted March 11, 2009 I don't even bother with pulling the connectors here. There are two bolts that hold on the entire plate. I use an open ended wrench and just remove them... :banghead: Why in the hell didn't I ever think of that Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
packjh Posted March 12, 2009 Report Share Posted March 12, 2009 Quck tip.... If you have a Four foot extension on a break bar with one set of ands to put socket on the bolts and another set of hands to use giant ratchet you dont have to lean over top of engine... gently lower trans down with jack to support it and engine will tip slightly aft.... not to much dont want to stress the motor mounts just enough to use a universal joint socket and to hold it on there... thats how i did my whole trans on a lift. Two hardest parts in my opinon is tranny cooler lines.... that took me forever to get back in and line up. And the starter nut.... i could not get that thing back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.