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Made The Switch From Mobil 1


rojo_143

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Well i have been contemplating switching from Mobil 1 motor oil for a while no major reason other than some slight lifter knocking for a couple of minutes during cold start ups. I have been talkin to a copuple guys at work and at the local dealerships and they said that mobil 1 is kind of notorious for that??? Anyone else experience this problem? Well I switched to Castrol Edge 5W30 to see if it would make a difference Now i am just waiting on a cold morning to see if the motor still makes noise.

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Well i have been contemplating switching from Mobil 1 motor oil for a while no major reason other than some slight lifter knocking for a couple of minutes during cold start ups. I have been talkin to a copuple guys at work and at the local dealerships and they said that mobil 1 is kind of notorious for that??? Anyone else experience this problem? Well I switched to Castrol Edge 5W30 to see if it would make a difference Now i am just waiting on a cold morning to see if the motor still makes noise.

 

I've used the "European" Castrol Syntec 0w30 in any car i ever gave a crap about for the last few years after taking apart my 98 SS motor that i used Mobil 1 on religiously.

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Dipstick.jpg

 

I'm not going to listen the Scottish guy until there is some type of substantial proof that Castrol is better than Mobil 1 or any other.

I think I'll stick with Molbil 1 for now... I haven't experienced any of the knocking on cold startups you mentioned. :dunno:

Edited by NebraSSka truck (see edit history)
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switched from royal purple to amsoil. RP was good to me but after looking at bobistheoilguy and looking at the oil analysis from everyone else, I made the switch. Running smoother so far.

 

Were you using the off the shelf RP, or the racing blend? I've never used the off the self stuff in they SSS. Always the XRP.

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castol edge is just a rip of the mobil 1 GOLD CAP the 15000 mile one.... from what i saw EDGE cost ALMOST 10 dollars more than the GOLD CAP...... been running mobil 1 since i bought the ss and still running smooth :) anyone c the Royal Purple oil filter???

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In my experience the lifter knock at startup is caused by a poorly designed anti-drainback valve. I've got 65K-miles on M1 0W-30 and a M1 tall filter, no knock at startup. When the oil filter drainback valve is defective, the oil is allowed to slowly empty out of the motor back into the oil pan overnight = dry startup.

 

Mr. P.

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In my experience the lifter knock at startup is caused by a poorly designed anti-drainback valve. I've got 65K-miles on M1 0W-30 and a M1 tall filter, no knock at startup. When the oil filter drainback valve is defective, the oil is allowed to slowly empty out of the motor back into the oil pan overnight = dry startup.

 

Mr. P.

 

thats the one with the green cap rite??? the economical one??

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thats the one with the green cap rite??? the economical one??

Yup green cap; the M1 0W-40 (silver cap) is also great where you have to deal with loading more heat into the oil, like desert summer driving, road racing, and driving forced induction like a pissed-off teenager. This month M1 is selling it's NASCAR high-zinc formulation (black cap) and if you have serious valvespring pressures and high-rate camshaft profiles then you definitely want the extra zinc; it's not EPA approved lol.

 

But the biggie is USE AN OIL FILTER WITH A GOOD ANTI-DRAINBACK VALVE, Mobile-1, K&N, or Purolator IMO. Dan (sprayed99) had this exact issue with his brand new TBSS, and replacing the oil filter with a Mobile-1 arrested the problem in it's tracks. The reason the vavetrain rattles on startup is because the engine oil galleys are empty.

 

Mr. P.

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I have been using only mobil 1 oil filters since i have owned it. I just switched to a K&N to see if i notice a difference. I am not sure if it is piston slap i do not know what that sounds like?? If so what do you have to do to fix it? Resleave the cylinder?

Edited by rojo_143 (see edit history)
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