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300mm Output Shaft?


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just about to get the parts to start the rebuild on the trans and have a couple quick questions....

 

 

this is the list so far

 

 

1. as far as getting hardened or bilet input and output shafts any preferences, also if needed what is needed to upgrade the output shaft to a 300mm piece.

 

 

2. our stock converter stall is about 1600 right, lookin at a P.I. 10.5 2400-2600 for now(stock motor,headers and blackbear tune in april)

 

 

any other little tidbits of advice would be a big help thanks guys

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The 300m output shaft is kinda overkill unless you are well past the 500RWHP mark. As for the converter, the stock is about a 2200 stall. If you are staying N/A for a while I'd recomend a 2800-3000. If you buy the right one it will drive almost like stock and launch a whole lot better.

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thanks zippy...i will prob be na for a while, just figuring id like to make it as bulletproof as possible that way i dont have to worry about it later...btw our stock input is a 300mm right?

 

 

300mm refers to the size of the converter not the shaft. and yes the 99and up LS based trucks are 300mm converters. The factory output shafts and have been known to break even in stock to mild bolt on applications, but not very often.

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OK my 2-cents -

 

Since the 2WD output shafts are a much longer than the 4x4 and AWD units and are made of (basically) heat-treated spring steel they do act like a torsion bar and twist under extreme demand; the shorter 4x4/AWD output shafts won't. So a stock output shaft in a 4x4 and AWD application will hold up to far more torque before cracking at the oil passage. That being said, on my truck with bone stock motor and TCS 2800-RPM converter I anihilated the stock output shaft, and racked-up a $1500 parts bill in the process.

 

A shameless plug, we do carry billet parts for the 4L60/65/70 and have the price advantage as we get them straight off the lathe from the largest aftermarket billet shaft manufacturer in the country.

 

Mr. P. :)

Edited by Mr. P. (see edit history)
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The 300m output shaft is kinda overkill unless you are well past the 500RWHP mark. As for the converter, the stock is about a 2200 stall. If you are staying N/A for a while I'd recomend a 2800-3000. If you buy the right one it will drive almost like stock and launch a whole lot better.
i know two guys that broke their output shaft and are nowhere near 500rwhp,i also heard of people breaking them that are near stock......i would do everything at once that the tranny is down.... imo because i hate taking down the tranny :cry:

i got my billet output from patc

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OK my 2-cents -

 

Since the 2WD output shafts are a much longer than the AWD units and are made of (basically) heat-treated spring steel they do act like a torsion bar and twist under extreme demand; the shorter AWD output shafts won't. So a stock output shaft in a AWD application will hold up to far more torque before cracking at the oil passage. On my truck with bone stock motor and TCS 2800-RPM converter I anihilated the stock output shaft, and racked-up a $1500 parts bill in the process.

 

A shameless plug, we do carry billet parts for the 4L60/65/70 and have the price advantage as we get them straight off the lathe from the largest aftermarket billet shaft manufacturer in the country.

 

Mr. P. :)

 

 

Fixed :jester:

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i know two guys that broke their output shaft and are nowhere near 500rwhp,i also heard of people breaking them that are near stock......i would do everything at once that the tranny is down.... imo because i hate taking down the tranny :cry:

i got my billet output from patc

 

 

I agree that it can be done. Quite a few have broken them with a truck barely making 300RWHP, but that's only from having a trans that shifts too hard. If you break the output shaft at a low power level like that you might want to go through the shift kit again and figure out why it's shifting that hard.

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