8 UR HMI Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 ok well the deal fell through with having someone remove my bolt from my head that broke off. so what do i do???? i measured it and its BARELY not flush!!!! like almost flush but just barely off. so what should i do guys?? i HAVE to get it out and since its the last header bolt in the head i cant really get in there with a drill..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Barely flush as in it's recessed or sticking out slightly? If I were you, I would remove the header and spray some penetrant oil on the broken bolt. If it's sticking out, try and get a pair of vice grips on it and remove it that way since you can't get a drill in there. If it's recessed in the head, you're gonna have to pull the head to use an easy out on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) He's trying to say that there might be one thread sticking out of the head. IMO the head has to come off; there's just not enough room to get a drill in there to drill it out. Budget for head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, head bolts, coolant, and 1-day's labor; unexpected expenses may include having the exhaust flange resurfaced to remove any warping. Optional item to budget for if money permits is premium set of pushrods (if you are still running the stock ones) since the top-end will be apart. Oh, and one new header bolt. Mr. P. PS - lemme make a call to Jerry, he might have an experienced solution for this. Edited January 27, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Hey Bob, if you have some tools and a lil know how, I say try and do it yourself to save some cash on the labor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboed ss Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 sounds like the head is coming off to me... that sucks... just use some antiseeze next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8 UR HMI Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 sounds like the head is coming off to me... that sucks... just use some antiseeze next time the bolt was broken off before i even touched the exhaust, i went to pull the manifold and it wasnt there. im gonna get a 90* drill attachment, drill a hole and use an easy out. if not ill pull the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprayed99 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 He's trying to say that there might be one thread sticking out of the head. IMO the head has to come off; there's just not enough room to get a drill in there to drill it out. Budget for head gaskets, exhaust gaskets, head bolts, coolant, and 1-day's labor; unexpected expenses may include having the exhaust flange resurfaced to remove any warping. Optional item to budget for if money permits is premium set of pushrods (if you are still running the stock ones) since the top-end will be apart. Oh, and one new header bolt. Mr. P. PS - lemme make a call to Jerry, he might have an experienced solution for this. Ummmm you were ther when the cam went in right? that means it already has the good pushrods in it. Also if the bolt has a thread you can tig weld a bolt to the end and pull it out. If not the head has to come off. My father has no secret way to do this Steve he just drills it out and retaps it or helicoils it. An easy out very rarely works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 (edited) Ummmm you were ther when the cam went in right? that means it already has the good pushrods in it. Also if the bolt has a thread you can tig weld a bolt to the end and pull it out. If not the head has to come off. My father has no secret way to do this Steve he just drills it out and retaps it or helicoils it. An easy out very rarely works. Thanks for clarifying, I did not remember exactly what Bob purchased in his cam upgrade. No I was not present when Bob's cam was upgraded. I cannot remember how much room there is back there, if there's enough to get a Mig welder in place to weld on a nut; I'm thinking there might be but wondered if Jerry may on an odd chance have done a repair like this in the past and have attempted this exact repair before. I've had good results with the "square" (Snap-On) easy-out, the "screw" type never works, total POS tool for the job. The secret is to drill as tiny a starter hole as you can dead center of the broken bolt (hard to do) and once established then step up the drill sizes until you have removed as much of the original bolt as possible without damaging the threads, then use the easy-out to remove what remains. Anyways has always worked for me but I've done it with the parts off the motor in the past, I cannot tell if there is room to use a 90-degree drill attachment. I guess we'll find out! Mr. P. Edited January 27, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brobradh77 Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 welding a nut on was my first thought also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allscrewedup Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 Just my two cents but I have removed busted bolts in that spot at least a dozen times. You dont have to pull the head .Best bet is to get a right angle drill and buy a short drill bit. And get in there by removing the splash shield. Also heat the broken bolt with a small brazing torch tip. Let cool a bit and remove with EZ-out heating it softens the factory lock tite on the bolt. hope this helps you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wody Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 (edited) this set of extractors has never, NEVER let me down. but of course you'll most likely have to remove the head since it is in such a tight spot. like P said the "screw" extractors suck, because all they do it expand the broken bolt creating a wedge, and once you break those off in the bolt...forget about it. Edited January 28, 2010 by WODY™ (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 I have used this method (welding with extractor rod to a nut) many times with good success. I am a certified welder and it is easy to do for a novice. Since you have some thread left you won't have to build up the weld as much so you will have a better chance of getting more penetration on the nut. I can look and see if I have some laying around if you have access to a ARC welder. You can bend the rod so you can get into tight places with it to. just make sure you cover your firewall with something flame resistant and keep a fire extinguisher close by. Here is the link to how to do it and how it works. http://www.lawsonproducts.com/website/main...bolts_studs.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted January 28, 2010 Report Share Posted January 28, 2010 dont forget GM has header studs, the part # is floating around PT.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 dont forget GM has header studs, the part # is floating around PT.net Didn't know that! Thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bear Posted January 29, 2010 Report Share Posted January 29, 2010 dont forget GM has header studs, the part # is floating around PT.net Studs: 11589154 Nuts: 11609746 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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