Tony.SS. Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 ok.. I am about ready to roll this thing into a river. I have had brake issues since I got the SS back in Sept. The dealer made an agreement with me that they would fix the brakes. They squealed so bad that even with the music up you could hear it. They installed 2 different sets of brake pads, that didn't work. Next they installed a new set of rotors all around. That didn't work. So i complained more and more, they said i could take it to someone closet to my place here. My friend has a shop so we installed one set of gold brakes, still squealed, then a set of GOOD GM brakes. and they still squeal.. what the heck?? Called them again and they said to take it back and have it fixed.. what can i do?? another set of rotors?? the squeal is coming form the rear wheels. any ideas?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcsilveradoss Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Is the squeal constant or only on apply? Have you checked the park brake shoes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboed ss Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 ok.. I am about ready to roll this thing into a river. I have had brake issues since I got the SS back in Sept. The dealer made an agreement with me that they would fix the brakes. They squealed so bad that even with the music up you could hear it. They installed 2 different sets of brake pads, that didn't work. Next they installed a new set of rotors all around. That didn't work. So i complained more and more, they said i could take it to someone closet to my place here. My friend has a shop so we installed one set of gold brakes, still squealed, then a set of GOOD GM brakes. and they still squeal.. what the heck?? Called them again and they said to take it back and have it fixed.. what can i do?? another set of rotors?? the squeal is coming form the rear wheels. any ideas?? sounds like u might have calipors that r sticking... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.SS. Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 only on pedal press. above 30 mph er so.. every time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 If you only hear the brake squeal only when the brakes are applied, then it has to be related to the retaining slide clips or slide pins. You are sure the squeal is coming from the rear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.SS. Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 If you only hear the brake squeal only when the brakes are applied, then it has to be related to the retaining slide clips or slide pins. You are sure the squeal is coming from the rear? Yes.. the old clips were bad so they were also replaced when we installed the GM breaks. We also tried some thick gue that goes on the back of the pads. Yes the sound is from the rear. put it on the lift, ran the engine and applied the brakes. Really bad form the rear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 (edited) Which rotors are you runing in the rear? When you replaced them did you inspect the e-brake parking shoes? Edited February 3, 2010 by WICKEDOWESIX (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.SS. Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 Which rotors are you runing in the rear? When you replaced them did you inspect the e-brake parking shoes? I am not 100% what rotors they used. That was done by the dealer and i was not there for that. Not sure on the eBrake. I thought with rotors they used the brakes for the eBrake??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I am not 100% what rotors they used. That was done by the dealer and i was not there for that. Not sure on the eBrake. I thought with rotors they used the brakes for the eBrake??? No they have shoes inside the rear rotor hub for the e brake. So you are no 100% sure that the rotors were chaned/cut ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.SS. Posted February 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 No they have shoes inside the rear rotor hub for the e brake. So you are no 100% sure that the rotors were chaned/cut ? I know they were 100% brand new rotors. When I take it back up to get them looked at again i will check the eBrakes. Does the eBrake function when the brake pedal is compressed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12'SROCK Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 I know they were 100% brand new rotors. When I take it back up to get them looked at again i will check the eBrakes. Does the eBrake function when the brake pedal is compressed? No it does not. But GM had a lot of issues with the e brake shoes inside. Also make sure that the at each caliper both pistons have free movement and are not getting stuck. Check and make sure the seals are ok and that the slide pins are not bend causing the caliper not to slide back. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 3, 2010 Report Share Posted February 3, 2010 How are you bedding/breaking in the new pads/rotors? Sounds to me like the rotors/pads may be getting heat glazed from improper break in...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
page305 Posted February 4, 2010 Report Share Posted February 4, 2010 How are you bedding/breaking in the new pads/rotors? Sounds to me like the rotors/pads may be getting heat glazed from improper break in...... What's that do? Slick pad face? Is there a proper way to break the pads in? Driving technique, mileage etc? Dan is the man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted February 5, 2010 Report Share Posted February 5, 2010 What's that do? Slick pad face? Is there a proper way to break the pads in? Driving technique, mileage etc? Dan is the man... Basically a heat glazed rotor or pad happens when the rotor and pad have not fully seated and broken in with eachother, and are put under very hard use and become overheated. This can lead to noise, cracked brake pads, and scoring of the rotor. A good way to tell if a new rotor is heat glazed is to look at it's color. If it looks blue, it has been overheated and is most likely heat glazed. Here is the typical break in procedure(also known as burnishing) for new brake pads/rotors, found it on Hawk's website.... After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. It can take as long as 400-500 miles for rotors and pads to properly seat with eachother, try to avoid heavy braking in this time period if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony.SS. Posted February 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2010 they added a NEW set of rear rotors.. still squealing.. i am getting pissed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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