feece08 Posted December 5, 2010 Report Share Posted December 5, 2010 Hello i'm new to this forum. I just bought a 2005 Silverado SS and it has a pro-charger on it. It has a stock 6 rip setup and everytime i open it up the belt slips off. I'm thinking it might be the auto tensioner just wore out?? just looking for some advise on how to combat the issue...maybe a HD tensioner or possibly a higher rib setup? Thanks- Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hottelboy Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) Hello i'm new to this forum. I just bought a 2005 Silverado SS and it has a pro-charger on it. It has a stock 6 rip setup and everytime i open it up the belt slips off. I'm thinking it might be the auto tensioner just wore out?? just looking for some advise on how to combat the issue...maybe a HD tensioner or possibly a higher rib setup? Thanks- Taylor I believe someone on her just welded an extension lip on there pulley use the search box (top right) you should be able to find it. G/L Edited December 6, 2010 by hottelsss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 I believe someone on her just welded an extension lip on there pulley use the search box (top right) you should be able to find it. G/L Yea i seen that yesturday, thought maybe it would be something else. I called pro-charger today and they said they've heard of the stock tensioners slipping. they sugested getting the HD tensioner. Napa said its 60$ so ill just try that. Napa also carries a HD racing belt from gates P/N K061145.. I guess after that stuff if it slipps ill be welding it. good thing im a welder.lol Thanks for the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 (edited) Are you saying you are throwing the accessory belt? Or does the belt stay put but there is a ton of black (belt) dust everywhere?? If the first, then use a pen laser and verify pulley alignment of all pulleys in the accessory drive; secondarily, weld the washer to the blower pulley to make a 'deep pulley' and help the belt from jumping off. If the belt does not leave the motor but rather you see a lot of black dust everywhere, then that's belt slip and the only solution for that is a good tensioner and belt. My 2-cents here, but welding on the washer to make a deep blower pulley is a band-aid to a larger problem; the blower belt should not be whipping/flopping/snaking around like that, it should always be pulled tight across the contact patch of the blower pulley. If the belt is tight, it will stay put and not want to wander or jump off the pulley, and no extra washer welding would be required! Mr. P. Edited December 6, 2010 by Mr. P. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 It is the accessory belt.. and i agree if it stays tight it should'nt slip off. I'll try out the tensioner and if that doesnt work ill have to dig deeper into the allignment issue. And it does not have black belt dust everywere. Just to clarify, Should you be able to take a rachet/ breaker bar and put it on the tensioner and push it down with one finger?lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted December 6, 2010 Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Most definitely NOT!!! Time for a new tensioner! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2010 Most definitely NOT!!! Time for a new tensioner! Mr. P. HAHA Just called Napa, pick it up next week. Ill let you know how it works out..Thanks-Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado_ss_04 Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 mine has came off once in the last 3 years, good thing i was just pulling into my driveway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Okay so here it goes....got the new tentioner on last week ran great...when I took the old one off I noticed that the back of it had a piece of aluminium welded to the back of it. Wich I thought was odd and I never heard of one breaking but whatever.lol tonight I'm going down the road and the tentioner literally shadders off its bracket. I'm going to take it to a local shop and see if they can check the alignment...anyone got any advise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Are you saying that on the old tensioner someone had modified it and welded plating to the 'arm' of the tensioner? And are you saying that the arm of your new tensioner 'snapped' or that the tensioner pulley broke, or that the spring housing broke? What exactly happened? Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 well on the back of the round part of it they basically matched the size and just welded a 1/4 inch aluim plate to the back,,and by they i mean previous owner..and when it broke away it snapped all 3 arms basically. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 This is a subject I am not expert in (tensioners), the only real life experience I can draw from is that I used to own a 4-door S10 Blazer a dozen years back, and it left me stranded when the alternator case cracked. The cause was that the tensioner had 100K+ miles on it and was so loose as to be useless, it was a miracle that the belt stayed on! But because that tensioner was shot the resulting vibration from the belt basically beat the alternator snout bearings to death, which then seized and cracked the alternator case and destroyed the belt. And I ended-up sleeping on the side of Interstate-10 about 3-hours east of El Paso (a very bad/expensive place to breakdown). When you install the belt, is the tensioner arm 'centered' in it's travel? Sounds like either (a) it is taking tons of vibration abuse? or (b) it is installed so that the arm is hitting the end of its designed travel and binding and snapping? Maybe your power steering pump or water pump or some other pulley has a bad bearing that is momentarily seizing? How much tension is that belt under?! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 This is a subject I am not expert in (tensioners), the only real life experience I can draw from is that I used to own a 4-door S10 Blazer a dozen years back, and it left me stranded when the alternator case cracked. The cause was that the tensioner had 100K+ miles on it and was so loose as to be useless, it was a miracle that the belt stayed on! But because that tensioner was shot the resulting vibration from the belt basically beat the alternator snout bearings to death, which then seized and cracked the alternator case and destroyed the belt. And I ended-up sleeping on the side of Interstate-10 about 3-hours east of El Paso (a very bad/expensive place to breakdown). When you install the belt, is the tensioner arm 'centered' in it's travel? Sounds like either (a) it is taking tons of vibration abuse? or (b) it is installed so that the arm is hitting the end of its designed travel and binding and snapping? Maybe your power steering pump or water pump or some other pulley has a bad bearing that is momentarily seizing? How much tension is that belt under?! Mr. P. funny you actually mentioned the travel on it...i took it to a local guy in town that has a couple race cars. this is what he thinks..right now i have the reinforced tentioner on it. and with the belt (k061145) on it it doesnt create enoughf tension on the belt. and those 3 dashes on the top, well the tensioner is at the last one when you let go of the breaker bar so he thinks that it should be centers inbetween when there is no wrench on it. With a brand new tensioner the belt works great, nice and tight so on and so on....but, the tenioner snapes like a ****ing pretzle.lol so he sugetsted getting a one size down belt and try to get the beefed up tensioner on there with jut a smaller belt on it that way its more centered up and has more strength..idk sounds like a good idea. NAPA doesnt have the belt in stock today so ima get it tomorrow but im leaving town so its going to have to wait till i get back. what you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 funny you actually mentioned the travel on it...i took it to a local guy in town that has a couple race cars. this is what he thinks..right now i have the reinforced tentioner on it. and with the belt (k061145) on it it doesnt create enoughf tension on the belt. and those 3 dashes on the top, well the tensioner is at the last one when you let go of the breaker bar so he thinks that it should be centers inbetween when there is no wrench on it. With a brand new tensioner the belt works great, nice and tight so on and so on....but, the tenioner snapes like a ****ing pretzle.lol so he sugetsted getting a one size down belt and try to get the beefed up tensioner on there with jut a smaller belt on it that way its more centered up and has more strength..idk sounds like a good idea. NAPA doesnt have the belt in stock today so ima get it tomorrow but im leaving town so its going to have to wait till i get back. what you think? Honestly I'd have to see the situation in person to get a good grasp of exactly what you are dealing with. But my judgment is that the only reason a tensioner would just snap like that is because it's hitting the end of its designed travel and/or something in the accessory drive system is causing the idler arm to buck or jump (travel/swing a lot). I agree with his assessment, if the belt is too loose then you need a smaller belt *especially* on a Procharger because the belt is going to relax (stretch) in the first 10K-miles anyways and become longer. What we do on the Radix motors is to get a belt that is so small the spring-loaded idler is bottomed-out under maximum tension by hand and then we still need to fight the belt onto the motor - even though it's a PITA fight to get the belt on when you release the grip on the wrench the idler arm will still relax to a 'centered' position and still have about 15-20 degrees swing travel available, even though you swore it was like pantyhose 2-sizes too small when you fought the belt on in the first place lol. If you're not getting medieval and fighting that belt on there with a blowtorch and prybar and a couple extra friends then it's too long! And I assure everyone my experience with tight pantyhose is all secondhand... Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feece08 Posted December 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 Honestly I'd have to see the situation in person to get a good grasp of exactly what you are dealing with. But my judgment is that the only reason a tensioner would just snap like that is because it's hitting the end of its designed travel and/or something in the accessory drive system is causing the idler arm to buck or jump (travel/swing a lot). I agree with his assessment, if the belt is too loose then you need a smaller belt *especially* on a Procharger because the belt is going to relax (stretch) in the first 10K-miles anyways and become longer. What we do on the Radix motors is to get a belt that is so small the spring-loaded idler is bottomed-out under maximum tension by hand and then we still need to fight the belt onto the motor - even though it's a PITA fight to get the belt on when you release the grip on the wrench the idler arm will still relax to a 'centered' position and still have about 15-20 degrees swing travel available, even though you swore it was like pantyhose 2-sizes too small when you fought the belt on in the first place lol. If you're not getting medieval and fighting that belt on there with a blowtorch and prybar and a couple extra friends then it's too long! And I assure everyone my experience with tight pantyhose is all secondhand... Mr. P. blow torch and pry bar.lol alright ill let ya know how it goes. and gunna be able to do shit to it unitl jan sometime when i get back but thanks for the input! -Taylor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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