Cramer Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Make sure you have a good valve spring tool. It will make the spring install alot easier. If you do change the timing chain, loosen the pan bolts about 3/8"-1/2". Use a 10mm flex head ratcheting wrench to get to the oil pick up tube bolt. When you have it out about 1/4" take some fishing string, or a piece of hard wire and loop it around the bolt thread. I use hard wire and tighten it down on the bolt and use it as a wrench. Just put your finger on the bottom of the bolt and have a pen magnet resting on it with your finger incase it drops out. Lube up the oil pick up tube o-ring (use the RED O-RING) good with fresh oil and insert it on the pick up tube first. As you push down on the pick up tube, turn the pump on an angle to get the tube in the pump then rotate the pump counter clockwise and pull up on the pickup tube. You will feel it pop in. Hold the pump in the position where it will be mounted ( aligned with the bolt holes) and pull up the pick up tube again. You will now feel the base of the pick up tube where the clamp sits almost flush with the pump body. To put on the dampener, get the timing cover on with all the bolts started, but DO NOT tighten them down. Heat the center of the dampener with a propane or map gas torch till it is warm, and put a small amount of oil on the crank snout. Put the dampener on the snout while it is warm, and make sure it is aligned good, and give it a shove. The heat will suck the dampener on the crank, and if you need to, use a block of wood and a rubber or dead blow hammer and give it a few taps. Don't go serial killer on it cause you don't want to mess up the crank bearings by beating it on. Once the crank bolts (old one for initial torque, new bolt for final torque) you can torque down the timing chain cover. This process centers the timing chain cover and seal to the crank and dampener. If you don't do this you risk wearing out the front seal early and will have to do it again. Also instead of using pen magnets to hold up the lifters, get some 1/4" hardwood dowel rods (oak or so) and lube them with oil really good. I cut mine to 22 1/2" if I remember correct. You can also use aluminum rod in the same manner. And give the cam a few quick rotations to hold the lifters in the cups for the time till you get the rods in. Then insert the rods in the front of the block through the holes for the lifters. But becareful not to grind it in and out of the bore. Take your time doing everything, and torque everything to spec. If you need any more advice there are many who will help. Enjoy the cam, and post up a vid when you get it going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 one more quick question. why change the springs? there just springs and its just my dd so its not like im reving the piss out of it all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 one more quick question. why change the springs? there just springs and its just my dd so its not like im reving the piss out of it all the time. They are not just springs. Im not sure how much lift your cam has, but your stock springs are rated to a "maximum" rate of lift before they get into something called "coil bind". Your valvetrain is not something to half ass. So depending on how much lift your cam has will depend on what springs you need to use. Also, DO NOT use the crank bolt to reinstall your crank pulley. I have seen many snap off the bolt in the crank then you are up shit creek. Iv also seen one snap off an ARP bolt as well. I picked this up for a crank pulley installer: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 one more quick question. why change the springs? there just springs and its just my dd so its not like im reving the piss out of it all the time. They are not just springs. Im not sure how much lift your cam has, but your stock springs are rated to a "maximum" rate of lift before they get into something called "coil bind". Your valvetrain is not something to half ass. So depending on how much lift your cam has will depend on what springs you need to use. Did you research everything that is involved with a cam swap? I agree with Brian.....to even suggest leaving the stock springs in with a bigger cam shaft is insane, definitely a great way to lose your entire motor. Valvetrain geometry is crucial, do it right the first time, or don't touch it at all....what are your cam specs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) k, i was planning on doing it all, but my dad pretty well talked me out of it. the cam is 222/224 566/568 / 112 lsa, i have everything to do it, is it possible to drop a valve when the cylinder is full of air? should i turn the motor over til the piston is sitting right under each one im doin. i already have the cam in and the crank bolt and pulley in the only thing left is the springs. by the way the pen magnet way for holding lifters totally almost screwed me over. i had two magnets break off on the lifter. so i jus sat all the lifters up and pulled the cam out and that worked. also the stock springs have the same amount of coils as the comp 918s. do they make comps stronger or whats exactly different between the two? just the lift rating? Edited January 2, 2011 by 03silv.ss (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 (edited) also the stock springs have the same amount of coils as the comp 918s. do they make comps stronger or whats exactly different between the two? just the lift rating? They are made of a hardened material. You also have to be carefull when running hardened springs. Cold they are "brittle" you can say until they warm up. So getting in ur truck on a cold start and reving the piss out of it cold will increase ur chances of breaking a hardened spring. Will it happen? Might not, but the theory is there. At the end of the day, 918's are ur ticket. they are rated to .600 lift which is perfect for ur cam Edited January 3, 2011 by 2BFAST (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Are you using new hardened pushrods also? I hope so..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2bfast Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Are you using new hardened pushrods also? I hope so..... this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 yes im using hardened pushrods. i did most of my research before hand. so i dont know why i didnt follow throw with it. i started swapping my springs and the air tool for the spark plug works awesome, but i wanted to check if this is normal. on the one cylinder i fill it with air and when i compress the spring it makes a noise like it pushing the air out. the other two cylinders i did, did not make that noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cramer Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I used a similar tool as above to install the crank pulley too. I just took for granted that he didn't have access to that tool or one like it. I have also heard of the threaded rod tool stripping out the crank too though. The sound you hear when you compress one cylinder with air is some blow by, and the piston pushing down in that cylinder and pushing out air in the other cylinders that are moving up. Nothing to worry about. Make sure you follow the torque steps for your rockers. Then roll the motor over by hand a few times and recheck the torque, and move the pushrods with your fingers to feel any slop out of normal to the others. If the threads in the head for the rocker arm bolts are messed up, it will give you false torque readings, and that rocker and valve adjustment won't be correct. When you reinstall the locks, put a little dab of grease or petroleum jelly on the inside of them. This will help hold them in the retainer and not fall out. Also smack the retainers with a rubber mallett or dead blow to make sure they are seated after they are installed and listen to the sound of them. They should have a thud sound and not a rattle sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 thanks guys, i dropped one lock tonight and couldnt find it, pissed me right off, so i gotta find some locks and should be done tomorow . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detjoe Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 did the same with a set of locks...tacked some extras down and found the orginal. Big excuse to take a break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 ahahah there slippery little buggers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Run to a local machine shop and show them one of your new split locks, they will have tons of extras in stock and will sell you a couple for a few cents. Make sure the one you lost isn't in the motor! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex.t Posted January 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 well guys, cam is done was able to start it up tonight, omg was i pumped. had no issues and should be able to get a vid up tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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