silverado777 Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 (edited) Hey guys I'm starting to save up for a 6.0 engine build. However, I need some opinions on which way to go with it. I'm looking for something durable since its my DD and on somewhat of a budget? However, if I am going to do this I want to do it right. Which should I try to find LQ9, LQ4 or LS2? Should I do a 408 stroker or should I freshin up the bottom end of a stock 6.0 and go with FI? Whats a good price to pay for a used 6.0L with over 100k miles? Am I money ahead to buy a used engine and have it built or buying one already built like shown in the links below? If I buy a block without the accessories will the ones off my 5.3l engine fit? http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_1222wt_1202 http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_1596wt_1161 I can definitely use all the help I can get with this. Thanks guys! Edited January 24, 2011 by Silverado777 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 How much is your "budget" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 I'd say around 5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruiser04 Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 I'd say around 5k if u got 5k to spend and plan on boosting i suggest this http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/EngineShowcase/index.jsp?engId=LSX376&engine=LSX376&sku=19171049&engCat=lsx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 if u got 5k to spend and plan on boosting i suggest this http://www.gmperform...1049&engCat=lsx I can spend around 5k total. With that I would still need to buy intake with tb and accessories which is probably almost another 2k. Nice engine though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawnss Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Id say a LQ4 should do the trick or even a LQ9. i know around here they are both the same price. i picked up my spare LQ4 as a short block with 37K miles on it for $400. i would of got the long block but the head had a crack. If it was my DD id build a 6.0 N/A. if the money was there do a 408 n/a. put a nice cam in it. and call it a day. maybe put a 100 shot on it for fun. as soon as you start making more power the tranny isn't going to like it much. so u might want to save a few pennies for a few tranny up grade's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Id say a LQ4 should do the trick or even a LQ9. i know around here they are both the same price. i picked up my spare LQ4 as a short block with 37K miles on it for $400. i would of got the long block but the head had a crack. If it was my DD id build a 6.0 N/A. if the money was there do a 408 n/a. put a nice cam in it. and call it a day. maybe put a 100 shot on it for fun. as soon as you start making more power the tranny isn't going to like it much. so u might want to save a few pennies for a few tranny up grade's. I wish i could find one with that low of miles. All I can find here in is complete engines with 150K + miles on it. However, anything I get i want to take it to a machine shop and freshin the bottom end up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 I'm very glad to see you've got a realistic budget. Which should I try to find LQ9, LQ4 or LS2? Skip the aluminum block engines, because their prices will be premium; you want an LQ9 or an LQ4 - the later LQ4's are identical in every part except the pistons (to lower compression), but those later LQ4s are still just as strong as the LQ9s and you can run a little more boost (to make the same power on forced induction) you'll just sacrifice a little MPG, but it won't be that bad. As a reference, MidnightRidr installed a used LQ4 out of a Hummer and put a Radix on it, his truck is just like yours 2WD EC and that truck got 21-22 MPG because of the freeway crusing gears installed in it! Should I do a 408 stroker or should I freshin up the bottom end of a stock 6.0 and go with FI? Use the stock bottom-end and boost the piss out of it. Period. This is my opinion - the only reason to go stroker kit is because you are building a nitrous motor, or maximum-effort NA motor. With your budget, find a used Radix or Procharger kit, or go single front-mount turbo. The stock crank and rods are stout as hell, and the factory pistons work fine as long as you do not exceed 525-550 ft-lbs and do not detonate the motor (correct tune!). Whats a good price to pay for a used 6.0L with over 100k miles? Around here I have heard that there are many solid running LQ4s out of 3/4-ton trucks and workvans selling for $500-600; LQ9s go for about 50% more ($800-1000). BUT that was what I heard a long while ago, the economy sucks right now, Craigslist is your friend - use SearchAllCraigs.com for LQ4 and LQ9 motors, have cash ready up-front because they go fast. Good news is that there's lots of them out there in the market, don't jump for the first LQ4 or LQ9 you see, with time and enough shopping you will find a great one at your price point. If I buy a block without the accessories will the ones off my 5.3l engine fit? All TRUCK motors use the same accessories; the CAR motors use different accessory setups. If you install a LQ4 or LQ9 then yes your 5.3L stuff is an exact fit. Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 I'm very glad to see you've got a realistic budget. Skip the aluminum block engines, because their prices will be premium; you want an LQ9 or an LQ4 - the later LQ4's are identical in every part except the pistons (to lower compression), but those later LQ4s are still just as strong as the LQ9s and you can run a little more boost (to make the same power on forced induction) you'll just sacrifice a little MPG, but it won't be that bad. As a reference, MidnightRidr installed a used LQ4 out of a Hummer and put a Radix on it, his truck is just like yours 2WD EC and that truck got 21-22 MPG because of the freeway crusing gears installed in it! Use the stock bottom-end and boost the piss out of it. Period. This is my opinion - the only reason to go stroker kit is because you are building a nitrous motor, or maximum-effort NA motor. With your budget, find a used Radix or Procharger kit, or go single front-mount turbo. The stock crank and rods are stout as hell, and the factory pistons work fine as long as you do not exceed 525-550 ft-lbs and do not detonate the motor (correct tune!). Around here I have heard that there are many solid running LQ4s out of 3/4-ton trucks and workvans selling for $500-600; LQ9s go for about 50% more ($800-1000). BUT that was what I heard a long while ago, the economy sucks right now, Craigslist is your friend - use SearchAllCraigs.com for LQ4 and LQ9 motors, have cash ready up-front because they go fast. Good news is that there's lots of them out there in the market, don't jump for the first LQ4 or LQ9 you see, with time and enough shopping you will find a great one at your price point. All TRUCK motors use the same accessories; the CAR motors use different accessory setups. If you install a LQ4 or LQ9 then yes your 5.3L stuff is an exact fit. Mr. P. Well stated sir! Guess I'll be a craigslist whore for a while. Thanks for everyones help and input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Alright so I just happened to have found a complete LQ4 out of a 2003 HD with 109k miles. All accessories and wiring harness included for $600. I'm going to look at it today. Question is what should i be looking for? Obviously looking for cracks, but what about casting numbers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterp Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Alright so I just happened to have found a complete LQ4 out of a 2003 HD with 109k miles. All accessories and wiring harness included for $600. I'm going to look at it today. Question is what should i be looking for? Obviously looking for cracks, but what about casting numbers? There is no way to tell a LQ4 from a LQ9 besides looking at the pistons for the 'step ridge'. All 6.0L engines will have "6.0" cast into the block, I cannot remember if it's on the back or side or ...??? The casting number on the engine heads will be 317. All accessories and harness included at that price is a *great* deal, you can part that stuff out and make a lot back to offset the cost of the swap! Mr. P. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSplaytoy Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 If you can get the VIN of the vehicle it came out of, you can tell if it's and lq9 or lq4. Instead of an N code, it'll be a U I believe. That's an awesome price, so if it all looks good and the motor turns, I think you should buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 Well, I'm going to look at it tonight and I I'm super excited. I'm about 85% sure that there is a 95% chance that I'm going to buy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverado777 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 So I picked up the engine last night and I'll have to admit that I felt a little over whelmed already. I think its just mainly the wiring harness that looks complicated. Question is would my wiring harness of my 5.3l work with this engine? Also I noticed it has a cable driven throttle body, can I assume that I can just pull the drive by wire tb of my truck and swap it and work fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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