67speeda Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 can someone look up the gm part number? i got universals from napa...they are way wrong i got some from rock auto. also wrong. went to napa and they tried every one that was listed, but none were right..... is our truck drive shaft different from regulator 1500's??? can someone look up and see if silverado ss part numbers are diff than regular 1500's? or a listing on the exact dimensions that i can match up. thanks sooo much for any and all help. Every u-joint i get is too large. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted February 12, 2011 Report Share Posted February 12, 2011 I know you are in a rush however I listed part numbers for the best joints I could find in my build thread (last couple of posts). Link to the thread is in my sig below. Maybe you could cross reference? I used NEAPCO joints. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67speeda Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 SO after trying the dealer they had the correct joints....at $85 a piece for just u-joints!!!!! ($170 total) after ship on gm parts direct they come to about $120 for the pair. Therefore, being the broke student that I am, I am now looking at options what i found are these universal-joints are spicer units. The front joint is the exact same as the rear EXCEPT there are 2 different caps. So make sure you get two different joints if any of you guys do your own.... Gm part numbers are; 89040243 is front 89040245 is rear Now i need to find the spicer number for these so i can order online. If anyone has any knowledge on how to cross them, it would be great! Krambo; thanks for the info, was looking for some part numbers to match and order but it seems you went though a similar ordeal. This whole thing is insane. Every joint i ever used before was a max of 15 bucks and everyone had them.... Going to try a good shop an hour away that may have these. ....what i thought would be a 20-30 min job is now going to last all weekend.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 Fyi, the heavy duty joints I used were no more than $17 a piece (NEAPCO). Spicer does make stock replacements however not in the Heavy Duty rating (for the aluminum shaft). If you want true HD joints for the aluminum shaft the only ones that will work are from NEAPCO. Spicer does have part numbers however only in the stock replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67speeda Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 (edited) Fyi, the heavy duty joints I used were no more than $17 a piece (NEAPCO). Spicer does make stock replacements however not in the Heavy Duty rating (for the aluminum shaft). If you want true HD joints for the aluminum shaft the only ones that will work are from NEAPCO. Spicer does have part numbers however only in the stock replacement. i was really out of it when i read your post the first time but the second time helped A LOT THANK YOU! advanced auto 3 miles away has the right ones in stock! 22 for rear 19 for front! going to pick up in few hours (NEAPCO brute force heavy duty for aluminum shafts, demensions listed were right on and they claim its for my truck) Krambo= you were a huge help, thanks a lot. wish i was not so tired the first time i read your post edit; advance auto part numbers are: Part No 2-0621BF Part No 2-0631BF Edited February 13, 2011 by 67speeda (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04CHASE Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 front or rear shaft ? i would have sent you a new front shaft with brand new u joints for 100 bucks . glad you got it fixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krambo Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 NEAPCO part numbers for those that need them: Aluminum drive shaft: (1) NE-2-0793 - 1330 ALU/SAG-S44 and (1) NE-2-0790 Brute Force 3R Front steel drive shaft: (2) NE-2-0795 - Brute Force 3R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
67speeda Posted February 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 Chase, it was the rear. Total cost for repair was $30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NAMYZZO Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 (edited) REAR ALM DRIVESHAFT REAR UJ ( 1330 x 3R/SAGINAW ) SPICER SOLID (non greaseable) 5-7436X / 5-793X / SPL25-4X = STEEL CAPS 5-794 = ALM x STEEL CAPS FRONT UJ ( 1330 x 1330 ) SPICER SOLID (non greaseable) 5-1330X / 5-790X = STEEL CAPS 5-3614x / 5-791x = ALM x STEEL CAPS MOST FRONT SHAFTS ( 3R X 3R ) 5-795X / SPL25-6X = SPICER SOLIDS (fyi. spicer greaseable uj's) 1330 = 5-1203x 1330 X 3R = 5-212x 3R X 3R = 5-3147X 1330 = ( 1.062"cap x 3 5/8"span - OUTSIDE CLIPS ) 3R/SAGINAW = ( 1.187"cap x ? 2.57"inside lockup ? - INSIDE C-CLIP SNAP RINGS ) >You don't need the alm caps. If you are worried about dissimilar metals / galvanic corrosion = use some anti-seize on the caps that go into the alm shaft. >Most errors I see are people don't clean out the snap ring grooves on the alm shaft. PLEASE - use a dremel cut off wheel or small screw driver to clean out the grooves CAREFULLY. All that corrosion in there wont allow the NEW snap rings to seat/ fully expand. ( caps will come out on you ) >Also - sometimes removing the uj creates 2 big burrs on the driveshaft yoke ears - if so get remove them or it will tweak the cap and cause binding when you turn the joint by hand - checking your fit... >Also - mark your slip yoke before you remove it so you know which h way to put it back on = This will help retain your factory balance. Make a mark on the shaft and on the slip yoke!! > Choice is yours - but the spicers have the best tolerances. And they have probably lasted you a long time.. Install the new ones properly and they will TOO..! >Lifetime warranty is GREAT - but who wants to keep changing them!! The Gold uj's and most greasables are a sloppy fit - have to be to allow grease to purge, Red uj's are solid - just don't have the good Triple lip seal design that the spicers have. Edited July 21, 2013 by NAMYZZO (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Downeast Johnny Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 REAR ALM DRIVESHAFT REAR UJ ( 1330 x 3R/SAGINAW ) SPICER SOLID (non greaseable) 5-7436X / 5-793X / SPL25-4X = STEEL CAPS 5-794 = ALM x STEEL CAPS FRONT UJ ( 1330 x 1330 ) SPICER SOLID (non greaseable) 5-1330X / 5-790X = STEEL CAPS 5-3614x / 5-791x = ALM x STEEL CAPS MOST FRONT SHAFTS ( 3R X 3R ) 5-795X / SPL25-6X = SPICER SOLIDS (fyi. spicer greaseable uj's) 1330 = 5-1203x 1330 X 3R = 5-212x 3R X 3R = 5-3147X 1330 = ( 1.062"cap x 3 5/8"span - OUTSIDE CLIPS ) 3R/SAGINAW = ( 1.187"cap x ? 2.57"inside lockup ? - INSIDE C-CLIP SNAP RINGS ) >You don't need the alm caps. If you are worried about dissimilar metals / galvanic corrosion = use some anti-seize on the caps that go into the alm shaft. >Most errors I see are people don't clean out the snap ring grooves on the alm shaft. PLEASE - use a dremel cut off wheel or small screw driver to clean out the grooves CAREFULLY. All that corrosion in there wont allow the NEW snap rings to seat/ fully expand. ( caps will come out on you ) >Also - sometimes removing the uj creates 2 big burrs on the driveshaft yoke ears - if so get remove them or it will tweak the cap and cause binding when you turn the joint by hand - checking your fit... >Also - mark your slip yoke before you remove it so you know which h way to put it back on = This will help retain your factory balance. Make a mark on the shaft and on the slip yoke!! > Choice is yours - but the spicers have the best tolerances. And they have probably lasted you a long time.. Install the new ones properly and they will TOO..! >Lifetime warranty is GREAT - but who wants to keep changing them!! The Gold uj's and most greasables are a sloppy fit - have to be to allow grease to purge, Red uj's are solid - just don't have the good Triple lip seal design that the spicers have. Thanks for the info, Steve and welcome to the site. Special tips and info is always good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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