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Is there a website that sells replacment door panels or speaker pods for these trucks or is this something that has to be made yourself? Im mostly just looking for a way to mount a set of components ( 6.5 + tweeter set ) in the back doors.

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On an audio forum I was browsing said they wouldnt use 2 or 3 ways in the rear with components up front, I'd leave theback empty but I just want something to fill the rear and even if I just got some 6 or 8 inch mid bass drivers they wouldnt fit either.

Edited by Fors (see edit history)
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A 5 1/4 is pretty easy to hack in the rear door and a good quality speaker will sound great. You don't want a lot of volume back there, but you can get some descent mid-bass if it's crossed over properly.

It'll will also raise your sound stage a little with the proper amount of fill.

 

Having a component speaker with a high quality tweeter behind your head is a waste. Your ears aren't designed to hear higher octave sounds from behind you.

Save your money.

 

I don't run rears at all. A good 6 1/2 up front with dynamat will lots of juice will make plenty of mid bass.

My focals will shake my mirror without subs.

As far as front speakers go, you can never spend enough money(speakers, amp, and dynamat)

Edited by paulguy (see edit history)
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Ok thanks, and maybe you can help me with setting up a 3 way active front stage, I know its complex to tune it per say but my friends dad is good with dealing with sound processors and such but I'd just like to know what all is required for a 3 way active. Tweeter, midrange and midbass. I read somewhere a 2 way active requires a amp for the tweeters and a amp for the midrange so does a 3 way require 3 amps? Also preouts on a HU for 3 way how many do you need and can you use rca splitters if you dont have enough? 3 way crossovers I assume are needed, is a sound processor itself needed? Do the 3 speakers need to be reletively the same xmas, rms, db ect ect to sound right?

Edited by Fors (see edit history)
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Ok thanks, and maybe you can help me with setting up a 3 way active front stage, I know its complex to tune it per say but my friends dad is good with dealing with sound processors and such but I'd just like to know what all is required for a 3 way active. Tweeter, midrange and midbass. I read somewhere a 2 way active requires a amp for the tweeters and a amp for the midrange so does a 3 way require 3 amps? Also preouts on a HU for 3 way how many do you need and can you use rca splitters if you dont have enough? 3 way crossovers I assume are needed, is a sound processor itself needed? Do the 3 speakers need to be reletively the same xmas, rms, db ect ect to sound right?

 

Crap I wrote a long post and firefox shut down before I was done...oh well.

 

No problem

As far as channels for speakers, most separates are run off of one channel which works well. Some high end speaker sets are bi-ampable(two channels) which just gives you more power to each speaker. I've never seen a 3 speaker component set with a three channel input(but i don't know everything). The freq are very close between a midrange and a midbass speaker anyway. All components use an passive crossover to divide frequencies which is a pre-tuned setup which would take forever to get the build a setup yourself that would sound just as good.

Building speaker sets is only done now in high end diy home audio, and I don't know if those guys are still doing it.

 

The main advantage to bi-amping a speaker set would be for adjustment, but not needed for the average joe, only for competing in sound quality competitions to help to tune to a rta, but a flat rta is always the best for good sound anyway.

 

I don't think I would bi-amp a component set without an active crossover, just because I know there are better then the ones in an amp.

 

But if your not competing for sound, a really good set of components and a good amp is all that's needed.

 

Run as much power as you can... double the rms rating if you can. A good set of 2 way components with at least 300 or 400 watts sounds killer. Forget about max input ratings on speakers. Power doesn't kill speakers, distortion kills speakers. What happens when you crank up your outputs because you don't have enough power...distortion.

 

If you want midbass...then dynamat(or any sound deadener, I actually used b-quiet on my truck).

 

...Or you could run this....

 

42.jpg

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That bottom picture looks sexy :P I was goign to put some RE 6.5 xxx components in my truck since I found a good deal on them, Ive heard they are great for midbass but lack in midrange so I was going to just put in a decent midrange speaker to go with them but I wasnt sure if the midrange id pair them with should be same brand, same rms, same db ect ect so I wasnt sure what to do. These RE's are 2ohms @ 150rms so your saying I shouldnt even worry about rms or peak and put what I can on them?

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That bottom picture looks sexy :P I was goign to put some RE 6.5 xxx components in my truck since I found a good deal on them, Ive heard they are great for midbass but lack in midrange so I was going to just put in a decent midrange speaker to go with them but I wasnt sure if the midrange id pair them with should be same brand, same rms, same db ect ect so I wasnt sure what to do. These RE's are 2ohms @ 150rms so your saying I shouldnt even worry about rms or peak and put what I can on them?

 

I've haven't heard those speakers, but they should sound good.

 

Don't add a midrange speaker. Those components are a tuned set and if you mess with adding another speaker you asking for trouble. You are way over thinking your setup IMO. Those speakers have had extensive engineering build into there design and if someone says they don't make good midrange, it might only be someone with a good ear for audio can hear if anything(they might just have rocks in they're head). Chances are you will never hear a difference.

 

The amount of work put into adding an extra speaker in isn't worth the what....a tiny little bit of sound improvement.

 

Speaker are rated at a thermal maximum. Unless it is overdriven for a really long time with too much power(by then your ears will be bleeding), a good speaker will last.

 

The more power, the cleaner it will sound. Almost every audio component has a 'sweet spot', where the output is clean. The more you crank gains on amps and such to make more power, the more distortion you'll introduce in your system.

 

ex. an amp that will put out 100 amp/ch with it's gains cranked will cook speakers compared to a 200 amp/ch amp that the gain is set to half and sound way better with the same output per channel.

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The amp info aboutthe gain was informative, never really thought about it much even tho I dont have my gains cranked up anyways. Any particular brands you lean closer to when it comes to amps? Just needing 2 channels with plenty of power, still havent decided if I want the RE's and they are about the only component set that ive seen @ 2 ohms so the rest of the choices im sure are 4 ohms.

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The amp info aboutthe gain was informative, never really thought about it much even tho I dont have my gains cranked up anyways. Any particular brands you lean closer to when it comes to amps? Just needing 2 channels with plenty of power, still havent decided if I want the RE's and they are about the only component set that ive seen @ 2 ohms so the rest of the choices im sure are 4 ohms.

 

 

 

Amp brands are like anything else... you get what you pay for. I run alpine and orion myself. The 2 ohm idea is cool, a easy way to squeeze more power out, but it can be hard on an amp.

 

Junk gear produces junk sound.

I had a problem with a big system mostly all alpine gear blowing speakers every so often. I talked to my alpine rep, and he told me to pull out the panasonic deck and put in a alpine. I swapped headunits and the guy ran his system for years after that and never blew another speaker after.

 

Any good speaker will play with as much power to it fine untill it starts to clip. Anything louder will kill the speakers. Turn up your settings till the speakers start to clip, then turn it down a smidge. Good to go. If you don't have an ear to hear if the speaker is clipping, then stand back from the speakers as far as you can, sometimes clipping is hard to hear close up as it is farther away.

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