smoothdime Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 So after driving my truck today for a few errands, I go to leave work and notice that my drivers window wont roll down??? So i just assume the switch went bad. I didn't have time to work on it right when I got home. So a little bit ago I went out to mess with it and notice I don't have over head dome lights or dash lights either?? So I've did a quick check of the fuses and all appears to be good. Now I'm not so sure as to what has caused this? I wasn't aware that all these items were linked together or why i can roll the left window up and down and the gear selector window lights up and adjusts with the dimmer switch. Any ideas guys?? thanks gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 The BCM controls all of those functions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothdime Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Well that would make sence. So does that mean the BCM just fried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 (edited) Maybe a hiccup. Disconnected the battery for a bit maybe... Edited March 31, 2011 by paulguy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothdime Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Well I just disconnected the battery, lets see what that does. Thanks for the quick reply paulguy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 No worries. And check your grounds...battery, motor, cab, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothdime Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Had it disconnected for about an hour and nothing changed. Does anyone know how to actually test the bcm? i assume thats a dealer only opperation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulguy Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Ya you need a tech II to test a bcm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcsilveradoss Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 you can test the bcm outputs via voltmeter for those functions. for a diagram see Fireman31. no output=bad bcm. They are simple to get to, just behind drivers knee bolster. Note: some outputs for lighting, etc. may only be 4.5-5.0 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothdime Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 thanks guys. hopefully i can get something figured out with this tonight before i take it to the dealer and get raped with a giant bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fireman31 Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoothdime Posted April 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2011 well after my $330 bill i found out it was a bundle of wires that some how got in the way of the e-brake as it comes back up. the wire got cut and grounded out blowing a 50amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Not as much as I was expecting to pay, but not cheap either. Thanks for the help guys. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtmarine02 Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Did you happen to find out which wire in general grounded or which 50 Amp fuse blew? well after my $330 bill i found out it was a bundle of wires that some how got in the way of the e-brake as it comes back up. the wire got cut and grounded out blowing a 50amp fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Not as much as I was expecting to pay, but not cheap either. Thanks for the help guys. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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